I Broke It $ $ $ 3400 HST

[_RaT_]

If it turns out the be a broken casting (I hope it's not...but I think that's what it is), consult a dealer or service tech on this before considering a weld repair.
Welding may work, but all that heat (and I think the Kubota castings are aluminum, which conducts heat easier then steel) could damage bearings, races or seals. So, think about that before you tow the tractor to your local welder.

Good luck!

I think your confusing the Kubotas with the John Deere 4X10 series, those are aluminum, the Kubotas are cast iron. I broke a lower link connection point on my L3830. I went to tractorsmart.com, looked at the parts schematic they provide and in 2 days not only had the part, but installed it myself. I did have to drain the oil down and clean up the RR work area.

 

[ctpres]

Follow-up. Yes it is a bad crack, not hairline. Crack is between both top bolt holes and extends one onch or so on both sides. Bad enough that top bolts won't tighten and material may have fallen inside housing so I am not moving it till I know more. It is cast iron, but I don't think I'll try to have it welded. So we are down to DIY or dealer. Have studied parts breakdown and can't tell if it is something I can do. On the surface it looks easy. Remove wheel, remove and reinstall housing and wheel. What I can't tell is degree of diffuculty with seals and how axel connects to drive line. Any ideas appreciated.

 

[Soundguy]

You are crazy and unsafe.. and are giving crazy unsafe advice to another that could get him killed....

if the axle trumpets are indeed cracked.. and the rops bolts to those housings.. are you seriously implying that you think they should be welded? CI welding is iffy even in good conditions.

That is to state it differently.. modify a safety feature???

You willing to bet 'his' life that that welde dCI axle trumpet will be as strong.. and as ductile ( not brittle ) as it was when OEM?!?!

If it were me.. and it were broke trumpets.. i'd be replacing the trumpets... I doubt that is as expensive as it sounds.

Assuming the axles are ok.. I'll bet it is ntotheing more than the trumpets.. and bearings and seals.. and some gaskets. The trumpets will be the spendy parts.. so will the labor .. still better than some other repairs I see listed here after catastrophic accidents..

To the poster.. get that machine checked out ASAP.. if the axle trumpets are cracked.. you could loose either or both at any time.. and if they go under load.. then bet on replacing axles.. and any final drive or planetary gearing, and most associated parts that could be damaged int he center section when the machine lets go and colapses. Might damage center housing.. and pto section or more.. Could go from a 2000$ repair to a 8000$ repair fast...


Soundguy

If it is the casting and and I bet it is, and depending on how bad it it damaged, I would try to fix the break. A good welder may save you alot of money.

 

[_RaT_]

You are crazy and unsafe.. and are giving crazy unsafe advice to another that could get him killed....

if the axle trumpets are indeed cracked.. and the rops bolts to those housings.. are you seriously implying that you think they should be welded? CI welding is iffy even in good conditions.

That is to state it differently.. modify a safety feature???

You willing to bet 'his' life that that welde dCI axle trumpet will be as strong.. and as ductile ( not brittle ) as it was when OEM?!?!

If it were me.. and it were broke trumpets.. i'd be replacing the trumpets... I doubt that is as expensive as it sounds.

Assuming the axles are ok.. I'll bet it is ntotheing more than the trumpets.. and bearings and seals.. and some gaskets. The trumpets will be the spendy parts.. so will the labor .. still better than some other repairs I see listed here after catastrophic accidents..

To the poster.. get that machine checked out ASAP.. if the axle trumpets are cracked.. you could loose either or both at any time.. and if they go under load.. then bet on replacing axles.. and any final drive or planetary gearing, and most associated parts that could be damaged int he center section when the machine lets go and colapses. Might damage center housing.. and pto section or more.. Could go from a 2000$ repair to a 8000$ repair fast...


Soundguy

I think ctpres has already addressed this and has decided against welding.

 

[RobJ]

On my L the ROPS sort of clamps onto the axle housing. But I looked up the p/N on mine. About $300 and the replacement doesn't look that bad. The hardest thing looks to be removing the rops and wheel. Perhaps the fender to get some more work room.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

[Shimon]

What I can't tell is degree of diffuculty with seals and how axel connects to drive line. Any ideas appreciated.

That's the million dollar question..."can I do it?"

How much wrenching experience do you have? Have a ever done major engine repairs (rebuild, head gaskets, valves)? Have you done a brake job before (drum brakes...cylinders and springs and all)? If you have then I would definitely give it a shot. A manual may help but not always. I have a copy of the Kubota L2800/L3400 workshop manual and I can scan pages if you need. From reading the rear axle section, it looks like something you can accomplish in your garage. Looks like you may need a puller. Otherwise it looks pretty straight forward. I would also ask a mechanically inclined friend to lend a hand. I'll scan a diagram when I get a chance. And if you need help you always have TBN friends who can lend a hand over the net. Good luck!

 

[Shimon]

Here's a diagram of the rear axle from the manual...

 

[Shimon]

And one more...

 

[RobJ]

That's the million dollar question..."can I do it?"

How much wrenching experience do you have? Have a ever done major engine repairs (rebuild, head gaskets, valves)? Have you done a brake job before (drum brakes...cylinders and springs and all)? If you have then I would definitely give it a shot. A manual may help but not always. I have a copy of the Kubota L2800/L3400 workshop manual and I can scan pages if you need. From reading the rear axle section, it looks like something you can accomplish in your garage. Looks like you may need a puller. Otherwise it looks pretty straight forward. I would also ask a mechanically inclined friend to lend a hand. I'll scan a diagram when I get a chance. And if you need help you always have TBN friends who can lend a hand over the net. Good luck!

I agree, and even though I use to do this for a living I would not call this a major repair. Some heavy stuff, expensive, but it's still a slow moving part unlike a high revving engine. A major part but not a complicated one IMO.

Just guessing about $500 in labor mininum if you went to a dealer.

Be sure to take some pics and post if you go forward.

Good Luck,
rob

 

[Greenfield Dave]

Could you use J/B Weld to fix the crack! It's an epoxy you can get at NAPA.

Mechanics use it to repair cracked outboard motor blocks, so it must be strong!!

I guess it depends on how bad the crack is....

Good luck!!