I Feel Like Henro Junior

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( .... Shingling is next but that will have to wait a week or two /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

Looks good robs,

If you can, get the tar paper on as soon as you can. Then you don't have to worry about the rain at all...at least for a couple weeks.

Keep the pics coming...we all enjoy them and...it gives some of us who have their roofs on... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif...encouragement to keep movin' rather than gettin' lazy... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[RobS]

Hey, thanks for the encouragement Bill. I had intended to get the tarpaper up tonight but got into a side project instead (see photos forum). I've got the tarpaper and drip edge so hopefully tomorrow night. No rain in the immediate forecast but our next couple of weekends are already booked solid.

I've heard that the drip edge goes under the tarpaper at the lower edges but on top along the rakes. Does this make sense? I also read about using a starter strip of shingles along the rakes in addition to the lower eave. How did you handle those details? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[rancar]

<font color="blue">"...10 yards of crushed concrete. I was a bit intimidated at first but the stuff is really loose and works easily..."</font>

Hi Rob...

I see you are using crushed concrete for your pad. Do you have any concerns with this material settling during wet seasons or the freeze/thaw cycles over next winter/spring to the point that it may shift the entire building in some way that causes structural warping and cracking of frame members?

...Bob

 

[RobS]

<font color="blue"> I see you are using crushed concrete for your pad. Do you have any concerns with this material settling during wet seasons or the freeze/thaw cycles over next winter/spring to the point that it may shift the entire building in some way that causes structural warping and cracking of frame members?
</font>

Short answer is no. Long answer is based on my experience. We had a minibarn at our last house half this size. It sat on concrete blocks partially buried in the native soil. After 12 years the doors still opened and closed like the day I built it. This one sits on compacted crush and is raised above the area for drainage. If it does settle any it should be even. The other factor is these buildings aren't really all that heavy. Look at all the store bought minibarns that sit right on the lawn. Time will tell but I think it will be OK /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

I've heard that the drip edge goes under the tarpaper at the lower edges but on top along the rakes. Does this make sense? I also read about using a starter strip of shingles along the rakes in addition to the lower eave. How did you handle those details? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

Yes, that is the way I did it. You want any water that might get under the shingles to run over top of the drip edge, not under it.

The starter course of shingles is simply a row of shingles with the tabs cut off. These are nailed down at the roof edge, through the drip edge. The exposed shingles then have something to stick to. under the tabs there is some stuff that causes the tabs to stick to the shingle below, if I remember right.

When you first put the drip edge under the tar paper, you don't use many nails, because you will be nailing that first row of shingles [with the tabs cut off] through the drip edge, and those nails will hold the drip edge secure.

Actually, the side drip edges are held on by nails at the ends of the shingles as well, so you only need a couple nails in those pieces as well at the start.

I did not use any shingles under the exposed ones, except for the lower edge. The wrapping on the bundles of shingles tells you how they recommend to do it. I just followed those instructions.

Hope this helps!

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The starter course of shingles is simply a row of shingles with the tabs cut off )</font>

That's interesting; never seen that done. We always just turned the starter row backwards with the tabs toward the peak.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( When you first put the drip edge under the tar paper, you don't use many nails, because you will be nailing that first row of shingles [with the tabs cut off] through the drip edge )</font>

Never seen shingle nails that near the edge either.

Don't know if it's just different experiences or done differently in different parts of the country.

 

[MossRoad]

<font color="blue"> We always just turned the starter row backwards with the tabs toward the peak.</font>

We always turned the starter row upside down, so the color was on the bottom. That way, when you were on the ground and looked up, you saw the 1/2 inch of color, not the bottom of the shingles. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Bird]

Haven't seen that done either but guess it might enhance the appearance. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

They actually make starter shingles that have no tabs. That way you don't have to nail close to the edge or turn the shingle upside down. They are also cheaper than regular shingles.

 

[Molerj]

<font color="blue"> </font> We always turned the starter row upside down, so the color was on the bottom <font color="blue"> </font>

<font color="black"> </font>
It would seem then that the part facing up would not be protected between the tabs. ( the sanded part, if you know what i mean.