I HATE CHAINSAWS! - HATE'EM!

[LWG]

I'm surprised you have trouble with your Stihls. I have two MS-391s. They start fine. The key is not to over choke them. Full choke for a pull, then half-choke. If you think there's too much fuel in the cylinder, use full throttle and no choke to clear it out.

 

[radioman]

thats probably why honda didnt come out with a chainsaw. they too, are unable to produce a engine for a chainsaw to start with a one pull.

 

[meburdick]

I own three saws, and use them for different "sized" tasks (well, one I don't use at all anymore) based on their ability. When I'm going outside to cut down the 24" diameter logs so I can split them, I grab my biggest saw (the Stihl 290). Yes, it takes a few pulls to get it to fire. I expect this. I'm not going outside to lounge by the pool with an iced tea - I'm going out to WORK.

If your saw takes you 15 pulls to get it running, you have a problem WITH the saw, not a problem saw. Complaining that a three-pull saw is hard to start (from cold) is like saying that you belong in the Polar Bear Club and they should issue insulated wet suits to all members.

 

[BIG DOOLEY]

I have two Stihl saws.
MS200T & MS361
Both need to be pulled a few times with the choke on to prime the carb if they have been sitting for a few days.
when you hear a fire. move the choke to the 1/2 choke setting with the throttle still lock in and it runs the next pull.
Once running the saw will start on a small pull every time the rest of the day.
MyMS361 has a compression release for starting but i never use it.
A primer bulb would be a nice addition to the Stihl saws.
My Stihl back pack blower is the same way, no primer bulb.

 

[LWG]

Both need to be pulled a few times with the choke on to prime the carb if they have been sitting for a few days.
when you hear a fire. move the choke to the 1/2 choke setting with the throttle still lock in and it runs the next pull.

I should have expanded a little. Pull on full choke until you hear anything that sounds like combustion. It might just be a burble. Then move to half choke. It should start right up. When my son pulls it one too many times on full choke, it will be a b**** to start. Best to leave it in the sun for an hour and try later.

 

[longhairlimy]

Just my 2 cents....

My first saws were Craftsmans. Junk.. Bought an older Homelite. It was ok ,but used up..One day i woke up to the fact that i hated throwing my saws cuz i was pissed.(Will not start) I bought my first stihl.
Ms-390. Killer saw. Easy to start. I guy at work had a old 045 electronic, gave $150.00 for it. The same, choke pull 2 times til it bumps, put choke on 1/2 and it starts and sounds like a car with a big cam.Last year i bought the wife an ms-250. Same thing.. STIHL's are the stuff. Bought a bench lupe grinder and all chains are perfect. Gas needs to be prem/with good oil. Don't use regular in your saws.When done cutting loosen chain and take pressure off engine bearing.I would buy Husky or Echo,if i was not stuck on the best... STIHL.....

Back to thread. Dude take saws in and have carb kits done.Stihl's are supposed to start 2nd pull.
My saws.
Ms-390
045
Ms-250
Ms-290

 

[jerrybob]

Nothing is so hard to start!! I've got a Stihl MS170 and a Poulan Wild Thing and both are hard starting. I've got 3 weedeaters (one is so old I don't know what brand it is) and 2 blowers (both Echo) and they all use the same gas and oil mixture. No matter how much I neglect all of the weedeaters or blowers - they start on the 2nd or 3rd pull and run fine. But my chainsaws are almost impossible to start!! I just wanted to rant! Now I feel better!

Watch Ax Man.....do what they do.......it worked for me!

 

[meburdick]

It all comes down to this... A saw is a tool. An operator must understand how to operate that tool, or it's not going to provide the assistance that it's supposed to.

 

[Ed of all trades]

I remember saying bad things about my Dad's old mac 1010, and then I made the mistake of sailing it down through the woods. The next time we cut pulp wood Dad said he had everything on the truck, and he did. Axe, marking pole and cross cut saw. We cut 1 1/4 cords of pine in 5ft lengthsthat day. You now I liked that saw a lot better after that, as far as that goes I still like it, even though it has ben gone for years.

 

[turnkey4099]

I should have expanded a little. Pull on full choke until you hear anything that sounds like combustion. It might just be a burble. Then move to half choke. It should start right up. When my son pulls it one too many times on full choke, it will be a b**** to start. Best to leave it in the sun for an hour and try later.

Correcting erroneous information I see repeatedly posted. THERE IS NO HALF-CHOKE on a Stihl. You have full choke or no choke - nothing else. Don't believe it? Pull the air filter and look. I had to do that when I heard it.

Harry K

 

[milkman]

Can't say for all Stihls, but my 026 is either choke or no choke and when I start it after setting , it takes several pulls to get a pop, choke off and it starts next pull. After first start, one pull and it's running. The 346XP with primer, when cold, choke and three pulls it pops, choke off and ready to rip on next pull.

 

[PhilY]

My Stihl MS261 has 4 positions to the control lever. I think what many call the half choke position is actually the starting throttle position. No choke at this position, just a bit of throttle to help it get going. I start it just like all are saying though, about 3 pulls with choke on and it burps, then flick the control lever to starting throttle and 1 more pull and away I go. The rest of the time it starts with 1 pull after warmed up with the lever in just the normal run position.