I have a MAHINDRA 4500
- Thread starter DJP
- Start date
Thanks to all for any info. BUT which nut or bolts do I take off to remove the cylinder from the tractor, starting from the power steering ball joint to the iron rod that goes inside the cylinder . I know the two bolts on each side of the cylinder mounted to the tractor frame. But where on the two iron rods from ball joint to cylinder?????
Yes my Mahindra do have appear to be a short power steering cylinder. MY internet search show the model (2580) and that model looks like the one mounted on my tractor. My question is what bolt do you undo to remove the cylinder off the tractor. The two bolts on each side at bottom of the cylinder mounted to the tractor must be removed. But where on the power steering rod, do you undo to disconnect the cylinder from the power steering ball joint to the cylinder piston??? Is it the large bolt on the BALL JOINT ASSEMBLY CYLINDER END?????????
You take the castle nut off from the joint and will need separators made for splitting those from steering knuckles... looks like a punch with a U on the end of it..
Or get a new joint and cut it off with a torch
Or get a new joint and cut it off with a torch
Re: OK Thanks to all for any advice.
After all my research, I have the Mahindra 4500 2WD 2004 >>>RAM PS CYLINDER (2580). The problem I am having is getting the cylinder off the tractor to take to the shop or try to replace the seal kits myself. First what is the size of the bolts that hold the cylinder onto the tractor wheel axle. The two bolts the are on each bottom lower side of the cylinder. A 11/16 socket is too small , a 13/16 socket is too big. Second it looks like I should be able to remove the cylinder without taking off the whole TIE ROD ASSEMBLY. This is the issue, left to right, the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end, which connect to ball joint assembly cylinder end, the ball joint assembly end has a thread bolt on the end that appear to connect to the iron rod(piston) coming out of the cylinder. Both the ball joint assembly cylinder end and the iron rod(piston)coming out of the cylinder have a round ball joint on the other end that turns when I turn the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. What I think I am seeing is the iron rod(piston) connected to the Ball joint assembly cylinder end, where the large bolt is, there looks like a indent on the end of the iron rod that you can use a range to hole the piston from turning and use another range to unscrew the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. And this will disconnect the Tie rod assembly from the power steering cylinder. This range that can be used to hole the piston must be thin enough to get between the large nut/bolt on the ball joint assembly end and the iron rod (piston). What size of this range????
After all my research, I have the Mahindra 4500 2WD 2004 >>>RAM PS CYLINDER (2580). The problem I am having is getting the cylinder off the tractor to take to the shop or try to replace the seal kits myself. First what is the size of the bolts that hold the cylinder onto the tractor wheel axle. The two bolts the are on each bottom lower side of the cylinder. A 11/16 socket is too small , a 13/16 socket is too big. Second it looks like I should be able to remove the cylinder without taking off the whole TIE ROD ASSEMBLY. This is the issue, left to right, the ball joint assembly knuckle arm end, which connect to ball joint assembly cylinder end, the ball joint assembly end has a thread bolt on the end that appear to connect to the iron rod(piston) coming out of the cylinder. Both the ball joint assembly cylinder end and the iron rod(piston)coming out of the cylinder have a round ball joint on the other end that turns when I turn the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. What I think I am seeing is the iron rod(piston) connected to the Ball joint assembly cylinder end, where the large bolt is, there looks like a indent on the end of the iron rod that you can use a range to hole the piston from turning and use another range to unscrew the large bolt on the ball joint assembly cylinder end. And this will disconnect the Tie rod assembly from the power steering cylinder. This range that can be used to hole the piston must be thin enough to get between the large nut/bolt on the ball joint assembly end and the iron rod (piston). What size of this range????
To help with splitting the ball joint away from the steering knuckle soaking it for a few days in blaster or something similar will help... heat will be the last option but a good bud tip will get the job done
Thanks NAVASOT for the quick reply and the great picture. That is the exact tie rod steering assembly I have. IF you calling the castle nut the nut on the end on top of the tie rod end ball joint with the lock pin. I have already removed that nut, but have not knocked out the tie rod ball joint end. The way I seeing it, even after I did that I will still need to separate the middle piece (ball joint assembly cylinder end, the middle piece with the rubber boot) from the iron rod (piston) coming out of the power steering cylinder. What I am hoping from your picture the there is a cut on the end of the piston connected to the ball joint cylinder end(the middle piece covered by the rubber boot) the cut id directly behind the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder end. If you had a thin range that will hole the piston rod, while you use another range to turn the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder end, the two will come apart. and you will not need to undue the castle nut and tie rod end ball joint. As of now when I turn the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder( the middle piece with the rubber cover) both the ball joint and the iron rod (piston) turn at the same time. If this is so what size of thin range of tool is needed to whole the piston, while unscrewing the bolt/nut on the ball joint cylinder. Question: do that bolt/nut screw on to the piston or screw in to the piston???????
What are you needing to split the the joints from the cylinder for? If I was taking it to the shop id just unbolt the mounting brackets from the axle, then split the joints and take it all. But if you need to its just simply backing out the grey linkage that screws into the cylinder... some can be tricky needing a skinny wrench to fit both wrench spots werer they meet... last one I did I took an 1 1/8 wrench and grinded the sides down making it about half its normal width