I join you guys today with my new CK27 HST

MossflowerWoods · Sep 21, 2011

Welcome to the Pack!:thumbsup:

I think you made the right choice. VERY RARE that a guy will ever say "I wish I'd bought a smaller tractor"

My wife was skeptical at first, but then the Stump Grinder was HER idea, so who knows!

Happy Tractoring!
David

LandGuy · Sep 21, 2011

I feel your excitement, Shulaj. The only thing more exciting than a new tractor is a new pair of boots! (Well, maybe not quite.)

I bought a CK35 (hst) in May of 2010. I paid a bottom line of $17,619. The dealer (Tractor Hill Equipment, Mineral, VA---the earthquake capital of the East) was doing a special: "free" loaders. I had to jump on that.

So maybe you didn't get the best deal out there, but you won't regret your purchase of a CK.

Mousefield · Sep 21, 2011

Congratulations on your new CK27. Sounds like you have a few jobs lined up for it, remember to take a few pics to post, we do like pictures :laughing: :licking:.
Have many safe and happy hours in the seat. :tractor: :cool2:

RoMad · Sep 21, 2011

I have a ck20 and really like it. For its size it is amazing what it will do. As for the loading of the tires, I never loaded mine because I don't want the extra weight on my tow rig. I usually use my heavy homemade boxblade for counter weight for the loader. Sometimes I use my RFM and put a little extra weight across the arms for the rear wheels.

Shulaj · Sep 22, 2011

Well got the beast and pushed around some sand today. Definitely needs some weight in the rear as wheels in rear actually raise if you grab a big bucket of sand.

I did have a question. When I am licking up and dumping smaller loads, I assume I do NOT need to be on full power. Right. It's light work so I can go at lower throttle. Correct?

Also I noticed that if I am dumping downhill, sometimes it's hard to back UP because rear wheels spin. Is there a trick? Do I put the loader in. Certain position to get more weight on rear tires? I did notice I need to get into LOW gear and go full throttle to back up a hill.

MossflowerWoods · Sep 22, 2011

Shulaj said:
Well got the beast and pushed around some sand today. Definitely needs some weight in the rear as wheels in rear actually raise if you grab a big bucket of sand.

I did have a question. When I am licking up and dumping smaller loads, I assume I do NOT need to be on full power. Right. It's light work so I can go at lower throttle. Correct?

Also I noticed that if I am dumping downhill, sometimes it's hard to back UP because rear wheels spin. Is there a trick? Do I put the loader in. Certain position to get more weight on rear tires? I did notice I need to get into LOW gear and go full throttle to back up a hill.

Shulaj,

If the rears are slipping/spinning I suspect it is the ballast issue. hang an attachment off the rear and both problems will be reduced.

Did you try 4wd? My experience with the 4wd is that is is unstoppable. When my rears are slipping on wet timber slash, put it in 4wd, and it just goes.

I only run at full RPM when I am running the PTO attachments. When I am using the grapple or bucket and FEL I run 1800 to 2000 (just enough it climbs my steep driveway hill). I find that to work well for me.

I run in MED most of the time. I use HIGH only on the flats of my driveway, or down the driveway easment to the mailbox and pavement. I use LOW when I want precise and smaller movements of the tractor. I use Low to keep me from driving too fast into the slash piles.

Just my :2cents:

Be well,
David

k0ua · Sep 22, 2011

Shulaj said:
Well got the beast and pushed around some sand today. Definitely needs some weight in the rear as wheels in rear actually raise if you grab a big bucket of sand.

I did have a question. When I am licking up and dumping smaller loads, I assume I do NOT need to be on full power. Right. It's light work so I can go at lower throttle. Correct?

Also I noticed that if I am dumping downhill, sometimes it's hard to back UP because rear wheels spin. Is there a trick? Do I put the loader in. Certain position to get more weight on rear tires? I did notice I need to get into LOW gear and go full throttle to back up a hill.

As for what gear range to be in, a lot depends on what your terrain is like. Around here its Low about 90 percent of the time, as it is very hilly. I use MED for transport longer distances on the places I can. HI is only road gear on flat ground. When I lived on flat ground, with a different tractor I stayed in MED almost all the time, except when I needed some push "grunt". As for the rear wheel lift, please be careful, remember the front axle is on a single pivot bolt so if you are on any angle at all and the rear wheels lift, you can pivot over in a fraction of a second. You really need to get some weight on the back ASAP. Look in your manual, but I am guessing for that size tractor at least 600 lbs. I have loaded tires and 750 lbs on mine. It turns the tractor from a tippy toy to a tank. Loaded tires are good to have when you have a light implement on back, and you still need some weight, and stability. I run the RPM usually 1500 to 1900 for most things, adding power as needed.. just listen to the tractor, dont let it "lug" and you dont need to overspin it either. I keep mine in 4wd most of the time except on very hard surfaces (road). But keep in mind without weight on the rear, (which you need badly) you put more strain on the front driveline componets and axle seals as you are in a nose heavy condition. Happy tractoring:thumbsup:

James K0UA

RunninOnEmpty · Sep 22, 2011

Congrats on your CK27! I too got tired of paying others to do my work. So I researched & decided on a CK20HST.
When I bought my CK20 the dealer recommended 3 things: loading the rear tires, tooth bar & hooks welded on bucket. I'm glad I said "yes" to all three.

LandGuy · Sep 22, 2011

Shulaj, what type of tires did you get? I went with the industrials and have been happy with them. Not quite the traction of ags, obviously, but solid performance and easier on the ground. (With the differential lock and 4WD I think the traction concern is somewhat neutralized.)

I agree strongly with those who say you should have your rear tires filled.

I'm just finishing up doing my 50-hour service on my 35. (Due to personal issues I wasn't able to use my tractor much in the first year I owned it, but I'm really starting to use it now as I clear about an acre to extend a 3-acre field. So, I'll try to participate more in the Kioti forums from now on.) It's been easy to do---just have a BIG container to catch all that hydraulic fluid! Despite what my dealer told me, I'm using a synthetic gear oil and not hydraulic/transmission oil in the front axle case, and I recommend you do too when the time comes.

I found it strange that all the drain plugs were barely tight---I could almost loosen them by hand, and with just the slightest pressure from a wrench. Anyone else notice that? I tightened them considerably more than that when I reinstalled them, but still on the gentle side.

Mousefield · Sep 22, 2011

MossflowerWoods said:
Shulaj,

If the rears are slipping/spinning I suspect it is the ballast issue. hang an attachment off the rear and both problems will be reduced.

Did you try 4wd? My experience with the 4wd is that is is unstoppable. When my rears are slipping on wet timber slash, put it in 4wd, and it just goes.

I only run at full RPM when I am running the PTO attachments. When I am using the grapple or bucket and FEL I run 1800 to 2000 (just enough it climbs my steep driveway hill). I find that to work well for me.

I run in MED most of the time. I use HIGH only on the flats of my driveway, or down the driveway easment to the mailbox and pavement. I use LOW when I want precise and smaller movements of the tractor. I use Low to keep me from driving too fast into the slash piles.

Just my :2cents:

Be well,
David