I join you guys today with my new CK27 HST

[Gittyup]

Some dealers won't even sell a small CUT with a loader without loading the tires.

As for RPMs on HSTs, I'm sure it varies from maker to maker, and I'm sure there's no exact minimum RPM number. Just enough to keep the HST properly pressurized, I think is the message. My JD tranny clearly isn't happy with anything much less than full throttle.

 

[Oaktruss]

I have the rear tires filled on my CK35 and still keep a landscape box blade on the back as my standard rear weight if I do not have something else on the rear. Besides the added safety, a rear box blade is very handy. Mine is made by United and has been very reliable through years of hard use.

 

[LandGuy]

I have a ck25 gear. I've moved over 1000 tons with it. its a beast. But, I've got to believe it would have been unsafe to move what I moved without loaded tires. Loaded tires is a definite. Rear implements/weights are good and all, but they can also get in the way, and sometimes you need both.

I think your price is fine, especially in canada.

Also get a toothbar. Really makes a difference digging into a pile.

From what I understand, mfrs recommend running HST's at or near PTO rpms so that sufficient pressue is developed for the hydrostatic tranny. My john deere explicitly says to run at full throttle when traveling. Plus, your loader will perform so much faster and stronger above 2000 rpms.

It seems impossible to set rules about rpm's vis-a-vis HST etc. I've heard so many different and conflicting ideas on this. Terrain matters, speed, gear, FEL load weight, and lots of other variables. Ultimately each owner must develop a "relationship" with the engine and just feel out and hear out the ideal rpm, which of course constantly changes as you work. I don't like over-revving any more than I like lugging. I guess those are the only hard rules.

My dealer, when I bought my CK35 HST, said 1500 was the ideal engine speed when just driving on level ground. But I've come to feel that's too low and don't usually do anything on the tractor at 1500 except start it!

Who knows.

P.S. I was moving a huge pile of old, wet, heavy mulch yesterday and I goosed up the rpms to 2200 when scooping and that seemed just right. Maybe I've been babying the engine too much (of course, babying is lugging if it's overdone). Still just getting to know to my tractor---have only 50 hours on it, after all.

 

[Gittyup]

It seems impossible to set rules about rpm's vis-a-vis HST etc. I've heard so many different and conflicting ideas on this. Terrain matters, speed, gear, FEL load weight, and lots of other variables. Ultimately each owner must develop a "relationship" with the engine and just feel out and hear out the ideal rpm, which of course constantly changes as you work. I don't like over-revving any more than I like lugging. I guess those are the only hard rules.

My dealer, when I bought my CK35 HST, said 1500 was the ideal engine speed when just driving on level ground. But I've come to feel that's too low and don't usually do anything on the tractor at 1500 except start it!

Who knows.

P.S. I was moving a huge pile of old, wet, heavy mulch yesterday and I goosed up the rpms to 2200 when scooping and that seemed just right. Maybe I've been babying the engine too much (of course, babying is lugging if it's overdone). Still just getting to know to my tractor---have only 50 hours on it, after all.

On my CK25 gear, I set the hand throttel to about 1800 rpms for genear loader work. When loading or dumping, I then use the foot throttle to rev up the rpms for better loader performance. Typically this is to 2200 or higher. Loader is way too slow at lower rpms.

HSTs probably require a different approach.