I JUST CHANGED THE TRANSMISSION / hYDRAULIC fluid in the 1963 John Deere 4010

[jrsavoie]

I had a 4000 that shook and jerked like that when first started, after it got warm it quit doing that. It dropped the lift arms too when shut off.
A 55+ year old tractor isn't going to be perfect.

It's only a little over a half century old - still younger than I am

I thought it would still be under warranty.

 

[1010]

It's only a little over a half century old - still younger than I am

I thought it would still be under warranty.

Yeah I shake a little too at times! Good thing for the tractor you can still get parts for a rebuild the lift and the pump if it becomes a real problem when using it.

 

[RPW]

I noticed that you said that you used Amsoil. Are you sure it's compatible with the 4010? Just because you use it in your Ford backhoe doesn't mean it's right for a John Deere. Just asking.

 

[jrsavoie]

I noticed that you said that you used Amsoil. Are you sure it's compatible with the 4010? Just because you use it in your Ford backhoe doesn't mean it's right for a John Deere. Just asking.

According to Amsoil Tech, it is the correct oil

 

[beenthere]

Of course Amsoil Tech will say it is the correct oil. What else would they say?

Next fluid change, would suggest the Deere oil that just may solve your problem.

 

[Tx Jim]

jrsavoie
I suggest to check stand-by pressure which should be 2250 psi but can safely be set up to 2350 psi. It's possible pressure control valve could be blocking some flow to 3 pt valves.

 

[jd110]

I haven't seen that it has been mentioned, but did the hitch act jerky before the oil change? I wonder how the viscosity of the synthetic oil compares to HyGard. With normal wear in an aged system, thinner oil could cause more internal leakage that can cause jerky hydraulics. DOes the jerkiness get worse after running for a while and oil gets warm? It is possible that a worn transmission pump may not be supplying enough oil to the main pump, or the main pump could have a seized piston or a worn inlet or outlet valve. I would remove the plug in the rear of transmission case that is under the scv coupler on right side. Look in the hole with a flashlight while running to see if you see oil flow. There is a square plate on the bottom of rockshaft housing that can crack or blow out a seal and leak return oil internally that can cause jerkiness also.

 

[jrsavoie]

I haven't seen that it has been mentioned, but did the hitch act jerky before the oil change? I wonder how the viscosity of the synthetic oil compares to HyGard. With normal wear in an aged system, thinner oil could cause more internal leakage that can cause jerky hydraulics. DOes the jerkiness get worse after running for a while and oil gets warm? It is possible that a worn transmission pump may not be supplying enough oil to the main pump, or the main pump could have a seized piston or a worn inlet or outlet valve. I would remove the plug in the rear of transmission case that is under the scv coupler on right side. Look in the hole with a flashlight while running to see if you see oil flow. There is a square plate on the bottom of rockshaft housing that can crack or blow out a seal and leak return oil internally that can cause jerkiness also.

To tell you the truth, I do not know if it was jerky before. I know it was pretty dirty.

We saw that and just changed it. I haven't tried it warmed up yet

 

[jrsavoie]

1963 John Deere 4010 Diesel wide front, 24 volt

I believe I have an update to a 4020 style hydraulic pump coupler. The book for my tractor, shows a flat plate assembly.

Still messing with this. I have a whine from near the hydraulic pump - unless the lever is shoved all the way up. Then it makes no noise,

It has not hardly been ran and has not been used since I changed the fluids.

I have the aluminum 4020 Coupler. It was suggested that the noise might be from the coupler. I got it a[part - not sure I can get it back together. The rubbers looked good to me.

Is there anything else I should check before putting it back together?

When I turn the pump shaft by hand, it makes a noise. Should it be almost silent when turning by hand?

I've been looking for mechanic that knows these tractors that makes house calls. Striking out so far. If anybody know one that would travel to L'Erable, Illinois, let me know.

What is the best position to have the coupler in to get it back together or apart again if needed?

I had to start loosening one bolt, turn it and loosen the other. Even doing this, I am wondering if there is a preferred starting and ending position.

I was looking for instructions in the book and online, came up empty handed.

What are the torque specs for the 3/8 bolts in the aluminum coupler? I came up with 20 ft lbs for those and 35 ft lbs for the 2 bolts that hold the piece to the hydraulic pump input shaft

 

[jd110]

What kind of noise does it make when turning by hand? Usually when turning by hand while all lines are hooked up there should be no noise. Also usually turn very stiff since it is trying to build pressure. The position for installing coupler halves does not matter. Where ever you can reach bolts the best. I usually use a long extension with flex socket from right side. The torques you mentioned will be fine. To be honest I dont think I have ever torqued those bolts. Just make them tight and they will be fine. Of course when you have been doing it a long time you get a "feel" for tightening hardware. Normally the bolts holding the halves together are long enough to have a lock nut installed on the other side of coupler after bolt is tightened.