I need a 3 point hitch geometry lesson.

[Camo]

Well I just got my FEL on, and sorrily underestimated the ballast weight needed to counter balance the FEL even nearly empty. I was taking some garbage that weighed less than 50lb down my concrete driveway today, with no ballast weight. When I tried to slow down a little, All I got was howling and skidding rear tires! I was headed for a main highway, so I managed to run it up along the berm to get it stopped where I proptly checked my shorts for lumps.
Sooo, I HAD thought that 200lb would be plenty, I'm now thinking that I need alot more, like in the 600 -800lb range. My 275lb butt in the seat sure didn't do diddly. So I got a plastic drum to build my ballast with, and I cut the holes for my drawbar, now I need a top link attachment. I just got this Cat 1 top link, but it seems too long unless I attach it toward the middle of the concrete that I plan to fill the drum with. If I use a middle position, I am guessing that I'd have to shorten the barrel dramatically, which sacrices the weight that it could potentially hold. Or should I get a Cat 0 short top link and put the top link attachment on the side of the barrel? How does top link length affect the tilt if it when raising and lowering the hitch?

 

[aczlan]

you will need a shorter toplink otherwise you wont be able to lift the drum without bending something, there is a thread here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/88061-rear-weight.html?highlight=ballast with more info on ballast boxes of all shapes and sizes.

Aaron Z

 

[dfkrug]

When I tried to slow down a little, All I got was howling and skidding rear tires! I was headed for a main highway, so I managed to run it up along the berm to get it stopped.....

First, let me say that it is safer to lower your loader bkt onto the ground
instead of going off the road. It is very easy to roll a tractor.

That said, why not buy a box scraper? A VERY useful tool and excellent
ballast as well. Even that small tractor will handle a 400-500# BB no
problem.

 

[Camo]

I see your point, but storage space in my garage is at a premium.

 

[xlr82v2]

You're definitely going to need a different top link, the one that you have is just too long for your tractor. I doubt that it will work with any attachments you have.

 

[teg]

Been there done that... I put the tractor in 4WD, the front tires will "brake" for you. Mine is HST and not sure it would work the same with your tractor (but I think it should ).

I would also think if you cut the drum in half, fill that with concrete, with a top link hookup in the middle of the drum... might work? 25 gallons of concrete is 500 pounds (a guess).

 

[cdhd2001]

Well I just got my FEL on, and sorrily underestimated the ballast weight needed to counter balance the FEL even nearly empty. I was taking some garbage that weighed less than 50lb down my concrete driveway today, with no ballast weight. When I tried to slow down a little, All I got was howling and skidding rear tires! I was headed for a main highway, so I managed to run it up along the berm to get it stopped where I proptly checked my shorts for lumps.
Sooo, I HAD thought that 200lb would be plenty, I'm now thinking that I need alot more, like in the 600 -800lb range. My 275lb butt in the seat sure didn't do diddly. So I got a plastic drum to build my ballast with, and I cut the holes for my drawbar, now I need a top link attachment. I just got this Cat 1 top link, but it seems too long unless I attach it toward the middle of the concrete that I plan to fill the drum with. If I use a middle position, I am guessing that I'd have to shorten the barrel dramatically, which sacrices the weight that it could potentially hold. Or should I get a Cat 0 short top link and put the top link attachment on the side of the barrel? How does top link length affect the tilt if it when raising and lowering the hitch?

I would either use a cat 0 top link or build a shorter one out of angle iron.

 

[Camo]

Been there done that... I put the tractor in 4WD, the front tires will "brake" for you. Mine is HST and not sure it would work the same with your tractor (but I think it should ).

I would also think if you cut the drum in half, fill that with concrete, with a top link hookup in the middle of the drum... might work? 25 gallons of concrete is 500 pounds (a guess).

4wd would have helped alot, but I was on the move, and not able to lock it in. Never thought I'd need it on dry concrete.

 

[teg]

Try loose gravel and steep!!! I just keep it in 4x4 now... you're right that you can NOT engage during the slide... even if I could take my hands off the steering wheel .

Have you got anything loaded in the rear tires?? That's pretty easy and you can do it yourself. It gets you a few extra pounds.

 

[dvan1966]

I have a B6200 kubota with a FEL. I have 2- 90lb wheel weights and that seems to help alot. I have a rear blade on it for snow removal that adds a couple hundred pounds but that will be coming off soon.