I need a boxblade maybe

[Henro]

IMO If you do not have a hydraulic top link a box blade is going to be very frustrating to use on what you've described...
Shorten the TL to load the box lengthen the TL to dispense/smooth the payload...constantly doing this manually gets tiresome and wastes a lot of time...
scarifiers/rippers should only be needed if the ground is hard packed or sodded...or you want to drag up roots currently below grade...

Amen to this.

After having a T&TT (two tilt cylinders) for over a decade, I forgot that everyone does not have T&T. Can not now imagine using my box blade with only manual adjustments.

Message is: Put the box blade on the back burner until (unless) have a T&T on your tractor.

 

[Henro]

holy moly you have craters, i think you might need a lunar land dozer!!!!

After seeing two mentions of the lunar land dozer I did a search...found nothing...I take it this was a humorous comment?

:drink:

 

[Jstpssng]

Put your bucket on and have it. Practice will make perfect and you have a large area to practice in. Since you already have the bucket, it won't cost you any additional money, just your time involved.

That's probably the best idea yet. No implement is going to work any better than the operator, and he can't learn without practicing.

OTOH, if you think that you need a box blade then you probably do.

 

[searcyfarms]

After seeing two mentions of the lunar land dozer I did a search...found nothing...I take it this was a humorous comment?

:drink:

aaaaah but yes an attempt at humor since the craters were the size of ones on the moon from the excavator/root balls, i figured NASA probably had some kind of lunar land dozer that would work good on craters and its probably been sent to the Gov't Surplus auctions by now HA!!! might get it for a song$$$

if its sugar sand it would be like moving moon dust so should work great!!!

id just start with a loader to fill the big holes and finish with a drag - definitely going to need a respirator with all the dust you will stir up

 

[TXCOMT]

*To make a drag:
Get a long rail road tie, at least as long as your tractor.
Drill two holes on the same side all the way though about 6-8in from the end of the tie.
The holes should be big enough for the chain you will pass though the tie and hook to your tractors draw bar
Next get two lengths of pipe, maybe 3ft long and large enough to go over the chain, but not though the holes on the tie.
This is so the tie wont slide into the next part of the drag
continue the chain back though the pipe and hook it to a length of chainlink fence that is just as wide as the tie and maybe 5ft 'tall'
The fence should have the top, bottom, and side bars on it, not just loose fence.
Hook up and drive in circles.

I have made this drag twice, and once with using a steel I-beam. The I-beam worked well, but really dug into the ground and moved quite a bit. Needed a big tractor.

Got any pics of this, Avenger? I'm having a hard time seeing in my mind...thanks!

TXCOMT

 

[PILOON]

A good 3 bladed 'drag' is simply the cats meow.
3 blades kind of averages things out with one that cuts the highs while the other 2 stabilizes the rig.
If you add angles to the equation the topped material moves from side to side thus filling the low spots.
Back in the '40/'50's most of our 'improved' dirt roads here in Quebec were maintained in this fashion, later came graders but in fact they did not do a better job, just cost moreI, with helpers maintained 3-4 miles of well travelled dirt road simply by drag grading 2-3 times/season with such a rig.

LOL, on our 'rig' we added a rope and platform so that a rider could actually steer the drag from side to side by simply shifting his stance much like riding a surf board.

 

[Imold]

Wow that痴 a mess, I壇 rent or borrow a D8 dozer and level it all out as best as possible and then drag and blade it.