i need help drilling 1 inch holes

[5030]

John:

Without proper securement, the wack factor is pretty likely. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Daryl -

Proper securement is less critical in my case, because as anyone who has read any of my posts would know, I'm already wacked. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[5030]

John:

Sounds a little "out of wack" to me. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[gates]

5030,
I agree 100%.
Speeds & feeds with some coolant, and at this point a Drill Doctor. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Ron

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue"> Speeds & feeds with some coolant, and at this point a Drill Doctor. </font>

I do love my Drill Doctor, although it (Model 750) only goes up to 3/4". Still, I wonder what I ever did without it. I never could get as good a result by hand as I do with it - highly recommended.

 

[gates]

John,
I think every body has a box of dull bits in their shop. I use the same model as you. It works well.

Ron

 

[5030]

John & Ron:

I had a little Drill Doctor once. I gave it to my BIL. Darex, the company that makes the Drill Doctor makes some really nice, very expensive drill and end mill sharpeners of which I don't have, but that's another story.

Once you become proficient at off hand sharpening (John, it's like sharpening a chain saw chain, practice, practice, practice), the Drill Doctor becomes unnecessary. All that's necessary is a 6 or 8" bench grinder, a wheel truing diamond dresser and a drill gage to set the included angle. The DD is nice for a touch up, but if you fracture the tip of the twist drill, it's much faster and easier to re-sharpen it by off hand grinding.

Interestingly, I always seem to be sharpening the drills for all the mechanics at my employers shop. I'm popular for that.

 

[PoleClimber]

I cheat, I take the torch and burn a hole large enough to fit in a 1" bushing and weld the bushing in. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[5030]

You could get a little higher tech than the gas axe.......A plasma cutter works better, less slag, less heat and with a guide, a round hole. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

My Harris outfit gathers dust 99% of the time.

 

[bobodu]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I cheat, I take the torch and burn a hole large enough to fit in a 1" bushing and weld the bushing in. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

You betcha!! Me too!!
Sure makes alignment a lot easier..
A torch also makes good for jump starting the wood stove ...can't do THAT with a drill /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

It took me 44 years to get a torch set....I'll be long dead before I can get a plasma.. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

But...you never know... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[SPIKER]

oh god someone mentioned those drill doc things, in MY opinion those are not worth the cash at all. sharpening is not that hard, observing an OLD mechanical sharpener is all it took for me to under stand how to sharpen one off hand. movement has NO as in 0 twisting or rotation of the drill bit. the bit is sharpened by placing the cutting face flat in postion with the rotating grinding wheel. holding the bit in left hand and the right hand both, so that right hand is on the chucks end and the left hand holds the twist bits slightly away form the cutting end. the left hand stays put the right hand moves, the movement of the hand holding the chuck end of the bit is down at an angle twards the floor and the center of the base the grinder is mounted on. movement slows slightly as you go down, which cuts away more of the back side of the bit leaving the face sharp. the end contacting the wheel will actually move UP straight up the face of the wheel and will eventually come away form the wheel and the wheel removed material from the bit past the cutting surface.


anyhow like others said slow speed lots of lube.

mark M

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Ok Daryl, you've convinced me that I need to add drill bit sharpening to my repertoire. As you said, the Drill Doctor doesn't quite cut it when a bit needs a lot of meat removed (i.e. when they're way out of whack). /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I've done a little bit of hand-sharpening, and can always (well, usually) get them better than they were, but I just can't seem to match the results obtained by the good doctor.

What grit/hardness/composition of wheel would you recommend? I think I have a J-60 aluminum oxide for my "fine" wheel, and about a 36-grit for my "coarse" on my (one and only) bench grinder. I do have a diamond-tipped dresser with a nice little shop-made jig for trueing them up.

Thanks,

J

 

[MikeD74T]

re MikePA : <font color="blue"> </font>
I have no idea what this means but I promise not to send any links again.

 

[escavader]

Well guys,im cooking with gas now,well i was.I feel kind of stupid ,but my problem was with the el cheapo craftsman drill press.The recoil spring was screwed up so i thought the drill arbor was at the top,but that spring had jambed up things upso i was at the bottom of my travel when i got into my cut.Ihad to reef on it to get it back to the top.needless to say,its not part of my press anymore,its in the metal recycle pile /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I found after i got going stepping up 1/8 wasnt working,for me,it kept fetching up,of course this is just a little 1/2 horse.It would also round over the outsides of my bits quicker,cause this was the only part cutting.By stepping upto 1/4 each time both problems were solved and i was drilling holes like a house a fire.I had to stop now and then to touch up my bits,speaking of which seem to be sharpenen up good [now i finally smartened up and brought a dish of water in to keep them cool during sharpening.I have learned the trick over the years of twisting and turning to give clearance on the back,in all i think im gonna be ok with the bit i got.I didnt have any cutting oil,i tryed a bunch of things...i will say you guys are right,wd-40 is usless for this.I found i was better off without it.
So i was drilling like a house a fire,when bang ...broke my drive belt /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifI hope napa has one,tommorow,i can try sears but i doubt it,its a tiny thin v-belt,ill get some oil ,when im out.Thanks to all,your all great and have had good ideas,and im posting a pic in my thread twiddling my thumb ALAN

 

[AntrimMan]

I know and respect the Rotobroach product. It's made by Hougen. Like a bleeding hole saw on steroids, what?
Since the entire hole is not turned into chips, the tool produces a slug, the HP and thrust requirements are way down vs a twist drill and the hole finish is very good.
Used with a mag base drill, also available from Hougen, this is a decent solution for those lacking adequate facilities. These tools are highly portable and are useable anywhere the mag base can be made to grip, like on ship decks or hulls and high up on multi story boilers.
They even make one for Aluminium.
Sadly, the average Joe isn't going to have access to these products.

All the best,
Martin

 

[MikeD74T]

Martin, These drill are out of reach if purchased new, however EBAY has used ones frequently at affordable prices. I posted a couple of current links (and got hollered at) last night. I even use my B&D mag drill for post & beam morticing. Clamp a 1/2" plate to the beam for the magnet to grip on & push a 3 1/2" forsner bit with ease. It will make precision large holes with a boring bar.

 

[1948berg]

Has anybody tried the Practool? It looks very fine on the PC, but I have bought some revolutioary items ovet the years, most of them are stowed away, together with some kitchen tools in the same category.
http://www.practool.com/
Gunnar

 

[ronjhall]

Good luck finding a belt.
For those that read 5030's comments on drilling holes. A drill point gage makes a difference with how well a hand sharpened drill will drill. I have an old Starrett drill point gage that is no long made. General Tool makes one that works good on straight shank drills. Click Here It is less than $10.
Starrett makes one that works good for just about any length. But as with any Starrett tool they are expensive. Click Here
Here is a older thread on drill sharpening. Click Here
When the art of hand sharping a drill is learned. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif The Drill Doctor is not a very good choice. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I noticed that the attachment in the other thread is not very good. I have a PDF file of the pages from a 1932 edition of American Machinists' Handbook that is 845 bytes. If you are interested please PM with a email address.

 

[AntrimMan]

Yeah, using the steel plate is what I was alluding to with the "they even make one for Aluminium" claim.
My concern with acquiring tools like this from a private party on ebay is not knowing if it in fact is stolen property.
I'm just not comfortable with that.

All the best,
Martin

 

[5030]

That tool looks like an absurdly expensive boring bar. Actually, buy a set of boring bars and cemented carbide tool bits and you have the same thing. Most drill presses will chuck up to a 1/2" boring bar, some 5/8".

www.use-enco.com They have a number of bars.