CalG
Super Member
- Joined
- Sep 29, 2011
- Messages
- 5,094
- Location
- vermont
- Tractor
- Hurlimann 435, Fordson E27n, Bolens HT-23, Kubota B7200
I traded in my old TW-1 splitter, that has served me well for many years, on a new TW-2.
I wanted the faster cycle time, and overall, the TW-2 machine is better built. It should be the last splitter I will ever need.
After bringing the splitter home, even though it was much too hot to work outdoors, I split cut rounds for about 45 minutes. I am well pleased with the increased productivity!
The next morning, after cutting a chainsaw tank full of rounds off the pile, I started splitting again. I noted that the detent enabled return stroke valve kick out was not releasing properly, and often bogging the engine. I never really let it go for very long, always doing the "manual over ride" to release the over pressure bypass in the valve and return to neutral. I thought about adjusting the spring detent to allow a "softer" reset to neutral, but considered that that the valve may just need a bit longer operation time to bed in. So I didn't change the adjusting bolt from the as new position.
Yesterday morning, after cutting another two fuel tanks full of rounds off the pile (an interesting unit of measure "rounds per tank full" ;-)
splitting began again. After I was in to the splitting for about 20 minutes, I was greeted with a shower of hydraulic fluid. In the 2 seconds to take in that the spray was coming from the area of the filter connection next to the valve, and though the fluid was messy and everywhere, it was not burning hot. I reached across the spray to shut down the Honda engine. I did take quite a shower in doing so. I can't imagine what I would have done if the fluid would have been hot.
On inspection after, it was easy to determine that the spin on filter seal had extruded out to cause the "return to tank" leakage. The spray occuring between the directional control valve and the filter IN, but at the spin on filter base seal ring.
Spinning off the filter, re-seating the flat seal, and reinstalling the filter, along with topping up the tank to replace the lost fluid, had everything back to operational. (with a good coating of "rust proofing and fire enhancement coating on the splitter and firewood respectively. ;-)
AND NOW THE PUNCH LINE
NOW, The return stroke kick out works perfectly!
What happened?
I'm puzzled.....
I wanted the faster cycle time, and overall, the TW-2 machine is better built. It should be the last splitter I will ever need.
After bringing the splitter home, even though it was much too hot to work outdoors, I split cut rounds for about 45 minutes. I am well pleased with the increased productivity!
The next morning, after cutting a chainsaw tank full of rounds off the pile, I started splitting again. I noted that the detent enabled return stroke valve kick out was not releasing properly, and often bogging the engine. I never really let it go for very long, always doing the "manual over ride" to release the over pressure bypass in the valve and return to neutral. I thought about adjusting the spring detent to allow a "softer" reset to neutral, but considered that that the valve may just need a bit longer operation time to bed in. So I didn't change the adjusting bolt from the as new position.
Yesterday morning, after cutting another two fuel tanks full of rounds off the pile (an interesting unit of measure "rounds per tank full" ;-)
splitting began again. After I was in to the splitting for about 20 minutes, I was greeted with a shower of hydraulic fluid. In the 2 seconds to take in that the spray was coming from the area of the filter connection next to the valve, and though the fluid was messy and everywhere, it was not burning hot. I reached across the spray to shut down the Honda engine. I did take quite a shower in doing so. I can't imagine what I would have done if the fluid would have been hot.
On inspection after, it was easy to determine that the spin on filter seal had extruded out to cause the "return to tank" leakage. The spray occuring between the directional control valve and the filter IN, but at the spin on filter base seal ring.
Spinning off the filter, re-seating the flat seal, and reinstalling the filter, along with topping up the tank to replace the lost fluid, had everything back to operational. (with a good coating of "rust proofing and fire enhancement coating on the splitter and firewood respectively. ;-)
AND NOW THE PUNCH LINE
NOW, The return stroke kick out works perfectly!
What happened?
I'm puzzled.....
