I think my tail wheel is too big

[nickel plate]

It appears that the yoke stem is bent at the blue arrows. The orange arrow points to what also might be bent. If it was meant to be that way, wouldn't it be easier and less expensive to just grind an angle on the stem where it welds to the yoke plate?
The second photo is my Bush Hog Squealer 480. Slightly different design but note that the stem and yoke plate are built at 90 degrees to each other.
Your mower's tail wheel was in a collision.

 

[Sutol]

Get yourself 3-4' of 1/4" chain and two clevises such as the one pictured. Now you have an adjustable flexing top link -- cheap!



View attachment 261001

Now THAT....is a very good idea:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Would solve the problem completely and cheap:thumbsup:

 

[Big Wave D]

I have enjoyed following this thread.

As usual, A LOT of good advice has been given to the OP's initial question.

What I find interesting is this. Here you have a simple question asked. This similar type question is asked by the hundreds over the course of a week on this board. However, most are lucky to get anywhere from 5-10 responses from all of the 1,000's of members on this board.

So, what is different about this post?

Why has this particular question gotten 60+ responses and climbing. It doesn't seem like the posts have slowed hardly at all.

Now, has the original poster yet said what course of action he is taking?

Great place for knowledge and entertainment.

Keep it up. :thumbsup:

 

[aczlan]

So, what is different about this post?
Why has this particular question gotten 60+ responses and climbing. It doesn't seem like the posts have slowed hardly at all.

IMO, pictures and prompt responses from the OP.

Aaron Z

 

[Big Wave D]

IMO, pictures and prompt responses from the OP.Aaron Z

Very true.

Those 2 things always help when trying to offer advice or some course of action on this forum.

 

[schmism]

I could care less about the tail wheel assembly. Its hella expensive to replace.

There is a second set of bolt holes farther back on the mower deck that he could move the tail wheel arms to.

He would have to relocate the up/down adjustment for the tail wheel, but given the nature of most hobby farm people, that may be a much simpler and way cheeper fix than buying a new $100+ tail wheel assembly.

 

[JoeL4330]

Certainly bent and, I would want a washer at the top for the pin to bear on...the variety of other pics posted of other designs illustrate the difference between "caster" and "kingpin alignment" IMHO.

The weld of the fork onto the (should-be-) vertical shaft seems like a refit and if there is some slop between that shaft and its tube, I'd suspect someone welded on an undersized shaft ...which has allowed it to be bent ...it should not be a sloppy fit but snug w. just some space for grease. This retrofit of the shaft would account for it extraordinary length (w. no other through holes for fastener)

 

[firstfruitsfarm]

The only problem with this tailwheel is a bad previous repair job. Someone has lengthened and stepped down the diameter of the shaft before the weld to the yoke. This is weak and has bent, resulting in the excessive caster and interference with the deck. Just get a new shaft/yoke unit with the same diam. shaft--should be less than $50. A Land Pride or Bush Hog one would probably work. It looks like the tube at the end of the arms is worn at the rear also. Fabricate a new one to the length required by the shaft/yoke unit you buy. Drill and tap a grease fitting and keep it lubricated. Don't try to salvage the messed up shaft/yoke by heating and straightening. It will be even weaker than before and will quickly bend, leaving you right back where you were.

 

[Bud Soda]

Maybe its bent?

 

[BeeferMan]

Does this bush hog make my tail wheel look big?







Sorry, couldn't resist...