I want to re-route my exhaust

[Westonium]

I have a JD 4310 and the stock exhaust points down left from the front. Doing a lot of FEL work leaves me thinking that I am inhaling way more diesel fumes than is healthy or necessary.

I know I can buy a kit to make a vertical stack, but I want to weigh the options of DIY. With DIY I can put that exhaust anywhere I like (pretty much). I am pretty new to tractors, but "I ain't a skeert of no tractor".

Why on earth did someone in engineering go "lessee now - point the hot exhaust down at the ground...CHECK. Hey guys I got it so we can increase fire risk AND let the operator drive through fumes!"

Wouldn't the exhaust gases be better off extending behind the ROPS, almost as high as the ROPS but pointing backwards? It's just a thought.

Looking for ideas, advice etc. Outside the box is good. Frankly I could hardly sleep last night wondering how easy it would be to run a tube around the exhaust that fresh air pumps through and into the operator area (I mean hey - its free wasted heat).

 

[ronjhall]

I don't think it would be that hard to make an exhaust pipe that would extend to rear of tractor or through a cab.
Check out muffler shops that have custom tube bending equipment. If you cannot find a muffler shop try a hotrod custom builder.

 

[stuart]

I have a 4300 and would be interested to see what you come up with. You would have to route the pipe under the operator platform and not too close so that it would not heat you or anything else it comes close to up too much. I will watch this thread. Please keep us informed.

 

[texbaylea]

My old IH444 had an underslung exhaust system that came out the rear pointed at the ground. Not a problem for most operations but it made it impossible to use a PTO chipper/shredder. Also if you were stopped you ended up in a cloud of exhaust.

 

[Tractors4u]

I have a 4310 but I have never had a problem smelling the exhaust. I often notice the leaves and grass blowing away from the left front. What type of diesel are you burning, regular or off road. The off road does smell stronger when it is burning. At least it used to due to the higher sulfur content.

 

[KennyV]

Diesel exhaust gasses are a lot cooler than gas engines exhaust. Diesels run a lot of air.

Having said that, When you run your pipe if you wrap it with header wrap, it will hold the heat in the pipe and keep the surrounding stuff (hydro lines, wiring, etc) cooler.

As for your exhaust scavenge heater… early cars used heat exchangers like that, they work good but you don’t want an exhaust leak in your enclosed car… gets sleepy in there /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. Not as big a risk on your diesel tractor. Happy fabricating… /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif KennyV

 

[Westonium]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have a 4310 but I have never had a problem smelling the exhaust. I often notice the leaves and grass blowing away from the left front. What type of diesel are you burning, regular or off road. The off road does smell stronger when it is burning. At least it used to due to the higher sulfur content. )</font>

Diesel #2 from the gas station (I haven't found the nearest place for off road stuff yet). This time of year the air stagnates pretty easily, and the area I am doing the work in has a berm on one side with 15'-20' pines that keeps the wind down. I don't think re-routing the exhaust will be a cure-all, but I think it will help get the exhaust to continue moving up.

The exhaust is hot and wants to rise, right? When the ground is really cold, and the air is cool and a bit damp, the exhaust loses a lot of the energy quickly and doesn't rise that fast. I think that the fact that it is blowing across the cold ground doesn't help. If the exhaust starts at least 6 or 7 feet off the ground and pointed up it would help get it away. Plus I am not depositing the cloud ahead of the tractor - the direction I am most often headed.

I will see about maybe using some old hose and metal wire to mock up the route and take it to a muffler shop and say "make this please". I certainly don't have the stuff to do complicated pipe bends. I could do a "ghetto mod" out of steel pipe pieces I suppose. It would be heavy as ****, but undoubtedly sturdy. Maybe, I will do both - ghetto mod first, pro-job second.

 

[Westonium]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Diesel exhaust gasses are a lot cooler than gas engines exhaust. Diesels run a lot of air.
)</font>

You got this in before my reply. I agree completely.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
Having said that, When you run your pipe if you wrap it with header wrap, it will hold the heat in the pipe and keep the surrounding stuff (hydro lines, wiring, etc) cooler.
)</font>

Yeah, I think I'll get that muffler out of the engine bay too. I'll wrap the exhaust all the way out. I was wondering what to use since most headers I am aware of are coated. I should have known there would be some kind of wrap. Not asbestos I hope!

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(
As for your exhaust scavenge heater… early cars used heat exchangers like that, they work good but you don’t want an exhaust leak in your enclosed car… gets sleepy in there /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif. Not as big a risk on your diesel tractor. Happy fabricating… /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif KennyV
)</font>

Food for thought. I think I'll get the exhaust run first and worry about the scavenge heater after.

 

[stuart]

Please swend photos when ready.

 

[Westonium]

Will do. I am stopping by the Auto parts store during lunch.

I assume there are no heat soak issues with these engines? In the winter I can see benefit to the muffler being under the hood, but it goes against the grain of my normal "get all un-necessary heat out of the engine bay" philosophy.

 

[have_blue]

I have the same annoyance. It's a little loud too being that close to the cockpit and in front of my ears. I would think the exhause behind the ears would automatically be quieter as well more pleasant to breathe.

Only thing I can add is be careful about fragile pipe hanging out where brush can hang up on it. Also be aware of the burn hazard. Good luck, and send pics! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Westonium]

The exhaust pipe is 11/2", but I wasn't able to find that size at the auto parts store. I did find plenty of other useful stuff such as high-temp fiberglass patching compound (so I can skip the welding initially), header wrap, hangers, and high temp silicon exhaust spray.

I'll get pics of that stuff up soon. I also decided last night that the tractor needs some illumination around the switches. I'd turned off the "coast-down" feature when doing some FEL work and couldn't see the switch to turn it back on again last night. That will be another thread when I do that...

 

[EddieWalker]

I had a similar problem on my Century CUT. The exhaust was routed downward by the front tires. Everythime I mowed when it was dry out, I was sucking dust and fumes. Finally out of desperation, I grabbed a crowbar, put it in the end of the tail pipe, and twisted it sideways.

Problem solved!

 

[texastomtom]

My previous tractor / mf230 had the exhaust routed down and back - exhaust was expelled below and a little behind the seat area. I really liked that. I dont recall ever noticing the fumes even come up on me at all.

In other words I really liked it that way.

I don't have much complaint about my jd4720 - comes out the front left like yours. But sometimes the extra heat blowing on me on a hot day is not desired.

I dont think I'd change mine as it just adds more exhaust pipe to rust out in the future.

If that is not a concern to you - I'd say it sounds like a good idea.

If you capture the heat via a surrouding heat tube be carefull about leaks. Many single engine aircraft still use that method for cabin heat and you really have to watch out for carbon monoxide... Course if you dont have a cab - it would probably be unlikely the ppm would reach a toxic level....

tom