Ice in hydraulics

[mongobird]

I have a Ford 1510, which has developed a problem with hydraulics. The hydraulics don't work until the tractor warms up. A propane torch on the filter, suction pipe and transmission housing gets things running faster, but this is becoming a pain.

Inspection of the hydraulic fluid shows some slight clouding, especially at colder temperatures. I believe this is small ice crystals.

If I had an old turkey fryer, I would drain the oil, and cook off the water. But I don't. Right now I am looking for a dipstick type immersion heater to leave in it during the cold dry weather. (Its 0F outside right now.)

Cold air is also try air, with a low partial pressure for water. So I figure if I can get some heat, and even slight ventilation into the transmission, I can get some of the water out between uses.

Does anyone else have any suggestions? I would like to clear this problem, but cannot park the tractor inside due to a couple engine rebuilds going on right now.

 

[J_J]

I would think the only solution would be to drain and flush with a mix.

1 quart atf ( type f or dex/merc 3 ) to 1g diesel, to 1 pint 90-91% rubbing alcohol. I'll put that into a sump as a rinse. if it needs more fluid for some pickup.. I'll add in some cheap utf or more diesel rinse mix.

You may have to do this a second time.

Once the fluid is emulsified, it is very hard to expel the water.

After filter and screen cleaning and replacement, tarp the tractor to prevent rain or moisture from getting into the hyd system.

There are hyd filters to get rid of small amounts of water.

Once water/fluid has been emulsified, other compounds form, and can damage the hyd system components.

 

[mongobird]

I would think the only solution would be to drain and flush with a mix.

1 quart atf ( type f or dex/merc 3 ) to 1g diesel, to 1 pint 90-91% rubbing alcohol. I'll put that into a sump as a rinse. if it needs more fluid for some pickup.. I'll add in some cheap utf or more diesel rinse mix.

You may have to do this a second time.

Once the fluid is emulsified, it is very hard to expel the water.

There are hyd filters to get rid of small amounts of water.

Once water/fluid has been emulsified, other compounds form, and can damage the hyd system components.

So first you are saying I cannot treat the existing hydraulic oil?

Why isopropyl alcohol, vs. Ethanol or Methanol? I have heard of Methanol being used in the arctic as a desiccant.

I have not found a suitable Donaldson filter, but will contact them and see if they have something.

Can you explain the rationale on using a flush with ATF and diesel? I am reluctant to do so because Ford specified the 134 oil for the transmission and hydraulics, and I am not sure how the seals, etc. would react to the ATF and diesel.

The shift boots are double covered, and I believe this is a slow accumulation of water from the pistons on the loader, over 30 years time. Well, perhaps the last 15 years since a hydraulic fluid change.

 

[J_J]

Are you serious about the last hyd fluid change?

If so, you probably have more water than fluid.

Nobody but nobody leaves fluid in a tractor that long on purpose.

 

[Soundguy]

a dipstick heater is a good way to burn oil. a mag block heater is better.

best bet it to get rid of the water.

dump in some alcohol. run. drain. preferably change filter/ clean.. then put in new oil.. and some more alcohol.

ps. adding some diesel 911 red bottle and hten running her real good will help a bit

 

[mongobird]

We have some Diesel 911, and I will look at the contents.

I'll look for a mag block heater.

Regarding oil changes... for a while, when I had easy access to a lab, I would run samples, and they looked good after the first couple of changes. The first change had horrible glint, and high chromium levels, among other things. It was interesting because the particles were smaller than the filter rating.

 

[aczlan]

Given the age of the current fluid and its milkyness, I would do the ATF/diesel/alcohol flush.
Its thinner than hydraulic oil so it should flush loose any gunk, but it should give enough lubrication not to hurt anything running it for 5-10 mins.
If it still looks like there is gunk in there, I would do a second flush of the same before filling with hydraulic fluid.

Aaron Z

 

[mongobird]

I am also concerned about residual flush in my loader (770B).

Nice night tonight? -7F thus far.

 

[aczlan]

I am also concerned about residual flush in my loader (770B).
Nice night tonight? -7F thus far.

-3F here per the thermometer on the porch...
Once you do the final flush and refill with UTF, disconnect the tank and power beyond lines (if equipped) on the loader valve and put them in a 5 gallon bucket. Then you can cycle the loader and the flush fluids will go in the bucket, not back into the sump.

Aaron Z

 

[Tx Jim]

mongobird
Be sure to check that hyd reservoir breather cap(parts key #32) is not plugged. There was an option of a hyd oil heater kit.