If you had about $30,000 for a shop
- Thread starter Whitnel
- Start date
- Views: 24486
Western
Super Member
A 40'x60', 6" slab is 44.44 yards of concrete. Then say you add 340' of footing, consisting of the perimeter, one run down the center length wise and 2 runs on the width, at 24"dx12"w x340', thats another 25.19 yards so 69.63 yards of concrete. Here it is $80 a yard, so $5570 just for the "mud". The going turn key rate here for a slab is $4.50-$5 per sq. foot. which includes the steel (re-bar) so around $11k (here) That alone is a 3rd of your budget. (this is for 3000psi)
Even if you go with a gravel floor, full or partial, you can still pour a concrete floor at a later date. PITA though.
Add a radiant system more $$, so a personal choice there.
Even if you go with a gravel floor, full or partial, you can still pour a concrete floor at a later date. PITA though.
Add a radiant system more $$, so a personal choice there.
Deere Dude
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2011
- Messages
- 3,887
- Tractor
- John Deere 3720
I would concrete the floor right away. Maybe it was just me, but I parked a couple cars in a graveled pole shed and everything turned to rust. Then I cemented it and everything just was much easier to maintain and keep nice. You can move dollies and build racks and cabinets without having to worry about moving stuff later to cement the floor. If it was a farm building for hay wagons and farm implements maybe gravel would be fine.
Sectioning off a little room for bathroom shouldn't cost much at all. A bigger expense would maybe be the electricity. Don't skimp with heavy duty outlets and put in plenty of lights.
I built mine with 14' sidewalls and put in 12' doors for my fifth wheel camper. Keep it high, you may get something tall you aren't considering right now. I messed up in that area. I traded in my 11'6" camper for a 12' 8" camper, now the camper sits outside anyway. That is fine because I have my shed packed with crap anyway.
Sectioning off a little room for bathroom shouldn't cost much at all. A bigger expense would maybe be the electricity. Don't skimp with heavy duty outlets and put in plenty of lights.
I built mine with 14' sidewalls and put in 12' doors for my fifth wheel camper. Keep it high, you may get something tall you aren't considering right now. I messed up in that area. I traded in my 11'6" camper for a 12' 8" camper, now the camper sits outside anyway. That is fine because I have my shed packed with crap anyway.
This. ^^^^^
I am putting up a 40 x 60 shop right now. Actually the building is up and am waiting on concrete people now. I started out with a 30,000 budget but had to up it to 40,000. I am only concreting half of the building and putting a division wall down the center. I am spray foaming the one side that is getting concrete.
MotorSeven
Elite Member
I agree, if you can swing it concrete the whole thing. Go as big as your wallet will allow. I have a 30x50 Quonset with a 14' apartment in the back. This leaves a 36x30 shop....way too small. If I had it to do over it would have been a 50x100....sounds crazy, but much more practical for parking equipment, vehicles, & projects like woodworking and welding.
Western, why would you run footers down the center and width? I only have footers on the two load bearing 50' sides, and no problems at all after 4 years. I did use steel mesh, extra fiber, and on the end wall perimeter, I dig a 3' post hole every 8'. I don't think those extra footers will really make much difference at all, unless a car lift is going in there, and then it has to be properly placed.
dusty3030
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2008
- Messages
- 2,271
- Location
- West TN
- Tractor
- Kubota MX5400 Cab, Kioti NX6010 Cab, Kioti RX7320 PS/ Cab, Kubota M7040 HDC, John Deere 2355, Kubota U35-4, John Deere 317G
I'm in a pretty humid climate and haven't had any rusting, but the inside of mine stays dry. Ground was built up and drains well, gravel stays dry.
My building is oriented with the 40' endwall of the enclosed part faces north. So the open area is protected from North wind, enclosed backwall faces West, so protected from the blowing storm winds and the other 40' end that points South is protected from the wind by a levee. Levee actually shields my house and whole property from South winds / storms. 60' open part is facing east and gets the least wind / rain from that direction.
My pickup, horse trailer, two utility trailers, tractor and equipment and round bales of hay are all stored in the open part and I haven't had any rust or moisture issues, but like I said, we had it built up a little so groundwater not an issue.
wedge40
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2007
- Messages
- 2,196
I had a 40'x56'x12' shell put up by Graber late last summer. It was right at $30k for the shell. It has a 12' shed roof along one side, two 11'x12' doors and one entry door.
I'm building stages as I get extra money. Next should be cement floor with radiant heat tubes installed. I'm estimating $8k-$10k for the floor.
I'd plan on the $50k
I'm building stages as I get extra money. Next should be cement floor with radiant heat tubes installed. I'm estimating $8k-$10k for the floor.
I'd plan on the $50k
Western
Super Member
M7, mostly for the added " insurance" (strength) and the type soil we have seems to behave better with the added footers, sandy/clay so it can swell and shrink. Also helps reduce cracks to mostly hairline or less (here). On a small shop it may be less practical.
My brother's house about 15 miles from me they added the extra footers, plus 30 6'-12' (deep) 14" piers, he poured it 6" thick, very strong slab ,but one end was on 4' of fill. 3600 sq. ft.
MotorSeven
Elite Member
Good grief West, that sounds like S Louisiana...not West Tx. I had no idea the soil was that bad out there...wow that is a lot of extra concrete.