If you had about $30,000 for a shop

[RPW]

I built mine 30'x50'x14' on a 40'x50' pad. Two 12' rollup doors and 2 walkthroughs. Cost was just under 30k. The extra 10' on the side is for the next part of the building and that's where the horse stalls will go. Not on the concrete that's for access. The main building is done the horse area and the equipment area come this summer. Did most of the labor myself. The completed pictures haven't made it to this computer.

 

[duke7595]

Regarding the bathroom and shower yo want to add to your shop..
In my opinion, build your shop first making the necessary inlet holes though the concrete for your future bathroom, but do not add it to your initial building permit plans.


If you do the building inspector will enjoy spending your money for unessential probes.
such as the impact on your existing septic tank and the environment. They love this.

And the whole time you will be saying all I wanted was a toilet, ya a $30,000.00 toilet.
In a nutshell the little impact your toilet and shower will have is negligible.

Build your shop first and then later add your toilet and shower, No red tape from the bureaucrats. Just quietly add the toilet and tap in to your existing septic system as stated.
With the small use of your bathroom you should be fine, unless you have existing septic problems

Just a thought and money saver, as most people agree these inspectors can be most thoughtless .

 

[Whitnel]

Regarding the bathroom and shower yo want to add to your shop..
In my opinion, build your shop first making the necessary inlet holes though the concrete for your future bathroom, but do not add it to your initial building permit plans.

Thanks for that suggestion. What does an inspector say when they see you adding pluming in that was not on the plans? If a toliet is not being installed at that time is there anything they can do? Guess I really need to find out what kind of inspections our county has. This may be a non issue.

 

[Luremaker]

Thanks for that suggestion. What does an inspector say when they see you adding pluming in that was not on the plans? If a toliet is not being installed at that time is there anything they can do? Guess I really need to find out what kind of inspections our county has. This may be a non issue.

I did the same thing here and most of my buddies did the same when building their shops. We made sure the work bench was always over the plumbing and all our lumber cut offs were neatly piled over any exposed pipes.

 

[Gary Fowler]

when I built my shop, I put in the septic for the future house. County had to approve the septic system, based on number of bedrooms (weird not occupancy or number of bathrooms). I put in the septic for my house first then tied in my shop half bath. My plumber recommended to put in a septic tank (500 gal) at the shop then just run the gray water line and tie into my house field lines just outside the main tank. I thought about a shower in plans but deleted it as I thought about it an decided that it would be a PIA to keep towels, etc for the shower plus extra clothing not to mention how to keep all the dirt from the shop out of it. In the end, I just put in a commode and cold water sink. In floor heating in Tennessee wont be cost effective and is very expensive, so you might want to rethink that. Further, I put in 30x 30 main slab and 10x12 for the bath on one side. Each side has 12 foot shed extensions that are open sided with dirt/gravel floor. THe slab area is fully insulated and interior sealed with 3/8" plywood walls and ceiling. Attic area is floored and also lighted for extra storage area. I put in 6 each 8' fluorescent 4 bulb lights plus double spotlights on each side by the garage doors as they do block some of the lights when open. I put in 100 amp electric so I have plenty to run my welding machine and plenty of electrical receptacle (every 8 feet max). I kinda of wish I had made taller ceilings, currently only about 10 feet which makes it easy to heat but limits what I can put inside. I didnt plan on working on larger equipment inside the shop so it is adequate for my current needs. I think 12 foot or even 14 foot ceilings would have cost a few thousand more , just cost of lumber and small amount of labor difference for the walls but the exterior/interior finishing would have doubled (twice as much plywood) All the insulation paid off as I can heat it with a 1500 watt portable heater and it doesnt run all the time. It is all wood frame and cost $25,000 to build about 3 years ago. I put on an addition to the back to add 14 feet x 30 feet lean too style fully enclosed with extended 18 foot slab outside the extension for wash down (14x48 slab), That cost me $8300 and it isnt insulated ,sealed or wired. Same contractor but substantial more cost per square foot. The photo of the back boat shed is in progress photo. It has now been painted to match with garage door installed.

 

[Gary Fowler]

The reason for the extra septic tank was because the shop is more than 100 feet from the house septic. It has plenty of fall but that is too far to carry solids effectively so to avoid future problems I ponied up the extra $500 for the tank which the plumber put in for no charge and even ran my water line to the shop for a 1 hour backhoe charge (80 bucks) and no charge for the 1" line. He did charge me for the pressure reducer that the county requires at each residence. I had the house and shop valved in separately so I can shut each off independently in case of line breakage, I will be able to run on bath all the time unless both supply lines break simultaneously. I suppose he could do a little extra for the $6500 he was charging for the sewer system with the 300 feet of field line and 1000 gallon sewer tank. This did include him coming back to hook up the house about a year later when it was finished as required by county code. Licensed plumber must make the tie ins for both water and sewer.

 

[crazyal]

I take it you're not going to build the shop yourself. I built a 28x32 two story garage a little over a year ago for $15k and other than paying my step brother $2k to help me there was no labor costs. But the only steel I used was a beam down the center to support the second floor.

I went with 12' high walls but after I poured the slab I poured a 2' wall so the sill plate wouldn't be sitting in water. Sooner or later you'll want a car lift. I have my second floor set so a 2 post lift fits in the first floor.

 

[Whitnel]

I take it you're not going to build the shop yourself.

I would like to but I don't think I will have the time. My first child is due April 2 so that will be keeping me busy. We will be building a house at the same time as well. I do want to do as much as I can to keep the costs down.

 

[F250DSLPWR]

I built my 24' X 36' back in 2003. I did all the site prep, dug the footers, put in the re bar, vapor barrier and formed up for the slab. Pouring the slab I had help from friends and family. Building the steel structure I designed and built the shop out of 2" sq steel tubing and also 4" sq tubing. I did all the welding and stood the shop up by myself. I then installed the sheetmetal roof and skylights. I then installed all the siding. For the doors I built barn style doors. I wouldn't go with the barn style door now, just because the wind blows them around to much when I have them open. I too am looking at building a new shop hopefully a 40'x60'x14'. I think if you do at least the steel work you can do it for under 30K. I would highly recommend a full slab and then after it cures, to paint it with concrete epoxy paint. I painted my shop floor and it makes it so nice.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would like to but I don't think I will have the time. My first child is due April 2 so that will be keeping me busy. We will be building a house at the same time as well. I do want to do as much as I can to keep the costs down.

Building yourself is a false economy. I built mine myself and so did my neighbor but my FIL and a friend each had about the same size buildings put up in 3 days, including the concrete floor by a traveling crew for the same money. Mine was a summer project and same with my neighbors.

Look into it. They order the stuff and deliver it to your property. My FIL had the materials for about a month before the crew got to his place to build it. I was amazed how quick they built it and that they could for the same money as a kit from the local hardware store. Guess they are buying on such volume they can do it dirt cheap.

I agree with wanting a lift. Like I said before I went 12' and kick myself everyday. I have a boat that is 13'6" tall and will not fit in. Stupid of me not going taller. I want a 4 post lift right now. Its the cheapest way to add a additional car storage and give you a great tool.

I disagree on the floor sealer or epoxy. My father has a 24x30 garage that he did this too. Its slicker than snot when the car drags in water, with saw dust on it, ect. Plus the water from melting snow and such just sits. You must squeegee it off, the concrete does not soak it up. He hates it now 5 years later and says its dangerous.

Chris