If you have a 5000 series Deere and it cranks but won't start, try this first.

Wombat125 · Apr 23, 2016

beenthere said:
MF283.. it would crank, but would it start?

I think it might just be a regional thing.
My Georgia friends tell me that in their part of the world, crank means to start.
I grew up with crank meaning to just turn over.

sunnyside360 · Apr 23, 2016

Wombat125 said:
I think it might just be a regional thing.
My Georgia friends tell me that in their part of the world, crank means to start.
I grew up with crank meaning to just turn over.

Same here where I live. "Crank" means to turn engine over w/o starting. "Start" means engine rolling/running. May have to do with ones background and/or region??

beenthere · Apr 23, 2016

Back in the old days we knew what "crank" meant and what it was shaped like... a crank.

"Start" was a whole other thing.. even a sputter was a sign of hope that "crank" would be or 'may be' coming to an end.

MF283 · Apr 23, 2016

You guys are strange up that way & one of us sounds entirely different

sixdogs · Apr 24, 2016

JD5210 said:
I replaced the one on my tractor, which has the 3 cyl engine and was quick about it and only lost a little fluid. Had I to do it over again, I would drain a half gallon off, I would think that should do it. When I changed the radiator fluid, I put a small plastic hose on the end of the radiator drain and ran it into a milk jug, that worked well for me and there was no mess.

The manual for my tractor says to torque 3.5 lb-ft. I would think that would be the same for yours.

I've tried to find something to verify the 3.5 ft lbs of torque for my 5520 but can't. Seems it should be the same but what book are you looking in and is there ant mention of other tractors? 3.5 ft lbs seems pretty light?

By the way, your 5210 is a great size/power/weight tractor, especially in FWA. Wish I could find a gently used one, or one similar.

MF283 · Apr 24, 2016

Sixdogs, when it get's tight, STOP. I tried to get a little more & it stripped & i wasn't using a lot of pressure at that.It's made out of brass which isn't that strong to begin with.

Ronnie

sixdogs · Apr 24, 2016

MF283 said:
Sixdogs, when it get's tight, STOP. I tried to get a little more & it stripped & i wasn't using a lot of pressure at that.It's made out of brass which isn't that strong to begin with.

Ronnie

Thank you, I'll go with that. My shop manual says to add a little teflon paste to the threads so I will do that as well. This simple part cost $49

so I don't plan on buying it twice.

JD5210 · Apr 24, 2016

The number came from the JD manual ctm125 for my tractor. Please see the bottom half of the attachment.

It should have come with an o-ring.

What it is worth. I purchased one 9/2011 at that time the cost was $31.24

sixdogs · Apr 24, 2016

JD5210 said:
The number came from the JD manual ctm125 for my tractor. Please see the bottom half of the attachment.

It should have come with an o-ring.

What it is worth. I purchased one 9/2011 at that time the cost was $31.24

Yup, that's the same sensor, etc.
Price increase must reflect more of them going bad so I'll bet this will be an increasing problem.

deere5105 · Apr 24, 2016

Looking for a little help and advice before resorting to calling mechanic. I have a 2008 JD 5303. Seem to be having the same issue as described in this thread. Tried disconnecting the Coolant Temperature sensor and still blowing fuse. Engine turns over, but sounds as if is not getting fuel.

Attached is picture of my fuse panel with blown fuse taken out. It is a 20A fuse. Also attached is picture from JD site of what this fuse is supposed to be for. Note it states flashers. I still have working flashers and signals. Fuse blows as soon as key is switched on. Have tried several times after disconnecting sensors on left side of engine and Coolant Temperature sensor with no success.

Have a couple more fuses before having to go into town for more. Any suggestions appreciated.