Ignition Switch problem
- Thread starter ualjack
- Start date
- Views: 11433
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
As far as I can tell, the fusible link is the same as the slo-blow fuse, which you call the main fuse. The old DK service manual leaves much to be desired. It refers to a fusible link several times in the troubleshooting section but the schematic only shows that 60 amp slo-blow fuse, not any kind of link. One contact for the starter relay and one for the glow relay should be powered at all times, same as the key switch. If you are really sure one start relay contact is powered but none of the key switch contacts are (only one should be), then you will have to open that wire bundle to see what's what. But double check your readings before opening anything (measure twice, cut once).
Last edited:
I called a Kioti tractor dealer to ask about the location of fusible link. they said a foot from the starter, I tore all of the insulation off looking for the link with zero success. I don't have one. i went back to trouble shooting like I should have done in the first place and where my wire harness goes from the engine compartment into a tunnel behind the steering wheel near the floor is a vertical rubber panel on the outside of the tunnel and ringing the wires out to that point I had power on the engine side of the connector but zero beyond and found that a blade type pin in the connector (the main power wire of course) had corroded completely apart. just a coincidence that it happened after cleaning the ignition switch. maybe i pulled a little on the harness or something but is was corroded in two. spliced wire all ok.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
I only recall one other case like this (internal connector failure) on TBN, and it too was hard to find. So good for you for finding it. I'd be interested in hearing how you decide to fix it.
I used yellow covered male and female connectors and crimped them on in case I ever had to disconnect for some reason. the blade pin connector in the connector is very specific and would require you to buy the whole connector and redo the whole thing. I used a pin probe on my fluke meter to pierce the insulation through the wire checking for voltage along the run until I reached the point where voltage was no longer present.(the other side of the connector) when I pulled the connector apart you almost would not have noticed anything wrong unless you look at the backside of the connector and saw that a wire went to the center position because it was corroded off flush with the blade in the female half. I had to pick it out of there. I hope this helps.
ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Thanks. The fix (crimp-on bullet or spade connectors) makes perfect sense to me. You may know that hidden (inside insulation) battery cable corrosion failures plagued several Kioti owners. Seems likely that a similar metallurgy problem could effect connector pins.
