IH B414 FEL, Bucket curl won't go one direction

[TheIglu]

Hello all,

Please excuse my lack of knowledge with this. I'll try to explain the best I can.

My trusty 1962 IH B414 Diesel had a little bit of a let down last big snowstorm. I mount a fairly heavy 10 foot truck plow in a large snow bucket, so it was dealing with a lot of weight. The curl that holds it up when I lift the bucket gave out suddenly and the bucket/plow went limp. I picked it up high using the lift cylinders which still work fine (as does the power down and float), but I can't tip the bucket up using the curl. It will curl back if I force the bucket down against the ground and drive backwards, and without the plow and no load on it, it will move the bucket slightly, but will not hold it up more than a few inches and she flops back down after I let go. I tested the curl down, and that still has full power.

The motor does strain as normal when I try to curl the bucket up even though the cylinders do very little. So I'm getting a bit of flow, just not enough.

This leads me to believe that the cylinders are working properly. If I blew a packing on a piston, it would have no power either way, not just one direction.

So I assume I have a control valve issue. It is a twin stick design, very simple. Are there a bunch of O-rings in there? Could one of them of failed, or the little detent balls failed, causing this to happen?

I've never opened a control valve assembly, so any links to a how-to would be appreciated.

Is it typically cheaper to rebuild these or should I just buy a new valve setup at Tractor Supply tomorrow before Snowmagedon and try to figure out how to put it in correctly?

Thanks for your help. I searched back 11 pages on the hydraulics forum area, but didn't see anything quite like this.

 

[J_J]

Try re seating the QD's

 

[TheIglu]

I have no quick disconnects. Everything is straight runs.

 

[J_J]

If your valve has load checks, remove them and check the spring or any debris.

Check also if the spool for the curl is actually moving, by looking at the shaft of the spool.

 

[TheIglu]

The shaft is moving from what I can see(the handle moves it in and out the normal amount). Is the load checks on the backside of the valve assembly, opposite from the handles?

I've been trying to find a generic schematic or assembly diagram of a typical two stick valve assembly, then I'd be able to be a lot more specific on parts and proper names.

 

[J_J]

They could be on the back or in between the work ports.

 

[TheIglu]

For the purpose of illustration, lets say I have something like this (except mine is two lever):

Is the load check valve the assembly that goes into the back of the housing? As in parts 18 through 28.

What is 11-17 called?

 

[J_J]

This is a Prince valve with load checks in between the work ports..

http://www.princehyd.com/Portals/0/products/valves/LVManual.pdf

If you look down in the PDF, you will see about how the load checks are used or depicted.

 

[J_J]

For the purpose of illustration, lets say I have something like this (except mine is two lever):

Is the load check valve the assembly that goes into the back of the housing? As in parts 18 through 28.

What is 11-17 called?

Those numbers refer to the spring center and the detent for that valve.

 

[J_J]

Have you shifted hoses to another work port to eliminate the cyl.

If the cyl piston lock nut came off, fluid would just run through the cyl, doing no work.

If the curl still does not work after shifting hoses, that tells you the fluid is bypassing, and the most likely problem is the piston lock nut.

If the curl now works after shifting the lift work port, to the curl work port, then the trouble is in the valve.

 

[TheIglu]

I haven't shifted the hoses yet, but I will today when I get out of work.

If the cyl piston lock nut did come off, wouldn't I not have full power to curl down? I can curl down with full power still, just won't curl up and won't hold when the lever is neutral.

 

[J_J]

No on the full power thing, you are going to have leakage.

You might have some movement if the rod is centered in the piston.

If the nut did come off, you should be able to move the bucket up and down by hand.

If everything was working good, the spool would lock the bucket in place.

 

[TheIglu]

Well, you were right. The nut on the left cylinder was broken into 4 pieces. I first swapped the hoses, but I still couldn't get much up-travel.

The piston was stuck at the top of the travel of the cylinder. I was able to pull it off, run down to Tractor Supply and pick up a 3/4-10 nut which fit on there perfectly. The original was a thin castle nut, not sure why. The threads got a little skewed from the nut pieces but it wasn't too bad.

Just tossed it back together and put the plow back on. Lot less creep now than before, I think that nut has been loose for a while. Just in time too, all of MA has been under a driving ban since 4:00pm statewide (even on my dirt road) and NH's started at 6:00pm. Now I'm ready for the 34" or so of snow headed our way!

Thanks again JJ, you have been a big help.

 

[J_J]

Did you Loctite the nut with red or blue?