I'm going to paint my own house....maybe.

[Western]

Pressure washing can be done, but has to be done correctly. Not like your trying to move the house with high pressure, or change the contour/surface of the wood. Also depends on climate, weather, siding type. Pressure generally should be less than 1000psi, your only trying to remove loose.clinging material and not concentrate on one area. Pressure washing is even used in historic rehab, but done correctly.

Painting is the fast part, prep is the hard part as mentioned.

 

[timbatrader]

Another vote to avoid pressure washing I have worked in the timber industry all my working life one. Most people don’t realize how long it takes to dry timber. It does depend on timber species and local climate but as a general rule I work one year per inch of timber thickness. Second point be careful about getting the timber wet after it is primed but before it is top coated. I have regularly had problems with new timber joinery being supplied and installed just primed. If this gets rain wet the moisture soaks though the primer. But the way the primer works it stops water vapor coming out of the timber. That is it acts like a none return valve liquid water goes in but water can not get out leading to all sorts of problems years down the track

 

[tcartwri]

If the paint layers are very badly weathered you might be surprised how quickly paint stripper will take it off. Wait for a very humid overcast day and test it out.

 

[dave1949]

Have you thought about vinyl replacement windows? I hate prepping and painting and readily admit I suck at it. :laughing:

Unless you are maintaining a period appearance, new windows would never need painting and would likely improve your energy efficiency.

 

[wdchyd]

I'm surprised no comments on removing mold/mildew before any painting.

I always use bleach or an algaecide to kill mold that grows on the exterior prior to any paint work

When using bleach I dilute it 10:1 and use a pump sprayer to mist any area maybe 10x20', then use a truck wash brush to knock the mildew around, then quickly rinse off with fresh water hose (not pressure washer)

Usually I wash the house down with this procedure the day before I commence painting......a quality primer first coat, then a quality top coat or two

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm surprised no comments on removing mold/mildew before any painting.

I always use bleach or an algaecide to kill mold that grows on the exterior prior to any paint work

When using bleach I dilute it 10:1 and use a pump sprayer to mist any area maybe 10x20', then use a truck wash brush to knock the mildew around, then quickly rinse off with fresh water hose (not pressure washer)

Usually I wash the house down with this procedure the day before I commence painting......a quality primer first coat, then a quality top coat or two

I missed the part about there being mold/mildew. I do something very similar, but instead of using household bleach, I buy the stronger stuff for outdoor use. It has a green color on the label and it's right next to the regular, blue label jugs at Lowes or Home Depot. For really stubborn stuff, I notch it up and use liquid shock for pools and spas. It's a much higher percentage of bleach and so much stronger that some people complain that it burns their eyes.

Eddie

 

[zzvyb6]

I bought a JLG T350 towable boom-lift trailer just for this purpose. You can also rent these by the day, weekend or week. I rented a Nifty-Lift and a JLG before buying mine (former builder, 1/2 price, needed some stuff fixed). Mine has electric, air and power-washing connections at the base that run up to the bucket, so I can hook into these lines from topside. I feel this is the only safe way to operate at the higher elevations. Falling off a ladder or a plank between ladders will never have a good outcome. With a centrally located parking point, you can go to within inches of areas that need attention. The only warning is when working around power lines. After that, a Power Painter (or whatever) that can suck from a can makes the job go really fast. Having an accomplice on the ground to keep the bucket in a favorable position is really cool. Having two hands free to hold tools, painters, beverages, etc. adds another degree of safety and confidence.

While you are at it, trim the trees, check the gutters and the chimney. Mine goes up abut 35 feet to the base of the bucket. Once you get used to the situation you loose the natural fear of flying. Looking down is OK. Looking UP at moving clouds is not recommended.

When you are done, you can easily sell it for what you paid (or more). Beware of a long line of neighbors and friends wanting to borrow it.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Be careful on the power of the pressure washer. I have one that you can carve your initials in a concrete driveway. WAY too powerful for a lot of things. Hold it too long on wood it will gouge a chunk out of it.

 

[jel1988]

George, I would suggest pressure washing with low pressure. Not only will your house have oil based paint on it but it will have lead in it. So set out tarps to collect the chips. When you are pressure washing if the bare wood becomes furry the the pressure is too high. Once you have pressure washed a hand scraper with a replaceable blade and about a 2' handle should be you next job. Scrape the entire surface remove all loose paint keep a file in your pocket a dull scraper isn't doing anything. If the existing finish has any gloss on it it will need to be removed. If you use a sander wear a dust mask (lead paint) or you can use a wipe on deglosser use rubber gloves. The next step is spot primimg just as it sounds take a good quality latex primer and prime all bare wood. The wood must dry it will take several days from the time you pressure wash. I would apply a coat of primer undercoater to the entire surface followed by 2 top coats all in latex paint. All exterior paints contain algacides and fungicides so don't worry about mold as 99% of the time it's on the surface. Don't forget about the dry part, I spend part of the year in the low county, in the summer hot humid weather with almost daily rain showers. In the winter cool damp weather in either condition the surface may feel dry but really isn't. The problem you have now was created by poor prep and probably poor surface conditions don't repeat the same mistakes as the outcome will be the same.
PS I forgot to mention take you hand rub it down one of the painted surfaces on the sun side if your hand turns the colour of the paint add this step. Take a bucket fill with warm water add some tide powder laundry soap or TSP cleanser get a stiff brush (we use the ones that screw onto a broom handle) wash the entire surface do this right after pressure washing rinse well with a hose allow to dry the proceed to the scraping step. Good luck, a good paint job is a lot of work. but when done correctly will look great and last for years. I hate getting long winded, between the spot prime and the prime you could take some exterior spackle and fix any dents, dings and feather out any rough spots.

 

[HillStreet]

Preparation is key. Manual scraping tools are probably best, just take your time. You should probably use some sort of wash, you can use a light pressure wash (no need for real concentrated high pressure) or a simple house wash that attaches to your garden hose. Soft brush on long handle will be handy. Ask paint supplier about house wash products, or TSP.

Let it dry good before painting. I have used Sherwin Williams paints for 35 years, inside and out. Ask about S-W Duration paint. I found that the Sherwin Williams staff is pretty well informed so describe conditions at your project and they will help. Good quality paint job with good products can look like new for 10+ years, then require only light touch up next time around.