Improving Parking Brake

[jfh28]

I'd like to see a better set up too. I had the brake cable pull out of the pin which locked the wheels up. Not a difficult fix but a real pain when it happens far away from your tools.

After that I stopped using it. I do have a built-in backup system with the 2425. I drop the backhoe, it's like tossing an anchor. If working on a slope I do advise not dropping it on the up hill side. Don't ask how I know this! Also always wear your seatbelt!!

Jack

 

[tracdoc]

I am so pleased to see this thread developing. I too have had my share of difficulties with my 425's brakes. For one, I can't figure out why, with two separate cables, the brake will not engage unless BOTH pins are able to pass between the cogs/teeth of the wheel gears. I have tried a myriad of adjustments to the cables/springs, but unless both pins can get into the gear tooth interspaces, the brake will not engage.

Since I have reversed my wheels like FOURTEEN, I can readily see from the operator's seat what is going on when I move the brake lever. If one pin has a straight shot at a gear tooth interspace, and the other does not, no braking will occur. If I then jiggle the steering wheel to get the errant gear wheel back in sync, Voila! both pins shoot out to the interspaces and I am locked down. Why won't the pin on one side only travel to its full length if it has a straight shot?? What is it about a "blocked pin" on the other side that holds up the pin on the side with a straight shot to a gear interspace?

I do hope that MR and other thinkers can come up with a fix to this vexing problem. We have recently moved from the relatively flat lands of northern NC to the hilly (did I say 20-35 degree hilly?) territory of southwestern VA, and I need brakes......maybe this is a good excuse to move into a "red" PT with wet brakes....hmmmmmmmm.... or at least consider fitting a wet brake to the 425. Has anyone done/considered this?

 

[MossRoad]

or at least consider fitting a wet brake to the 425. Has anyone done/considered this?

Yes, there have been a few posts regarding swapping out two of the existing wheel motors with two motors with internal brakes. Don't think anyone has done it, though.

As for you problem with pins not engaging until both can, that is odd. I have never had that problem. Have you looked where the two cables go through the pulleys just below the brake handle to see if they are perhaps binding in there?

By the way, I called a few junk yards today. The foot pedal assembly is about $35.00 if I pull it myself at one junk yard and $40.00 if I have them pull it for me at another junk yard. After looking over the setup on my wife's Impala, I think it will be worth more than the $5.00 to have them pull it. I'll see about getting one tomorrow, possibly.

 

[Barryh]

I am so pleased to see this thread developing. I too have had my share of difficulties with my 425's brakes. For one, I can't figure out why, with two separate cables, the brake will not engage unless BOTH pins are able to pass between the cogs/teeth of the wheel gears. I have tried a myriad of adjustments to the cables/springs, but unless both pins can get into the gear tooth interspaces, the brake will not engage.

Since I have reversed my wheels like FOURTEEN, I can readily see from the operator's seat what is going on when I move the brake lever. If one pin has a straight shot at a gear tooth interspace, and the other does not, no braking will occur. If I then jiggle the steering wheel to get the errant gear wheel back in sync, Voila! both pins shoot out to the interspaces and I am locked down. Why won't the pin on one side only travel to its full length if it has a straight shot?? What is it about a "blocked pin" on the other side that holds up the pin on the side with a straight shot to a gear interspace?

I do hope that MR and other thinkers can come up with a fix to this vexing problem. We have recently moved from the relatively flat lands of northern NC to the hilly (did I say 20-35 degree hilly?) territory of southwestern VA, and I need brakes......maybe this is a good excuse to move into a "red" PT with wet brakes....hmmmmmmmm.... or at least consider fitting a wet brake to the 425. Has anyone done/considered this?

Hey Doc, can't wait to see pictures of your new place. If you look at my recent post on this thread, you will see I just went through the adjustment process. For anyone that might be intersted. I had to take the cables out of there holder and readjust.The way I did it was lift the front end, take the front wheels off.

I then pushed the spring loaded pins in one at a time. I then I gently turned the hubs with a set of vise grips just enough to block the pins from popping out. I then positioned the handle about 1/2 inches from the lock down position. Then pulled the cables up through the adjuster evenly and tightened down. Cleaned and sprayed a little lube on the pins.

After that I moved the handle down while watching that the pins did not back off to far as to get caught behind the pin opening. They now engage and disengage evenly. If yours do not, I would think one cable is not even with the other. You might want to eye ball it again. As I stated I'm not sure why they didn't put a little loop washer on the two cables so they would stay even and also not fray. Also they would have to break to engage the brakes and take the adjustment process out of the picture.

This may be the course I take. Make cables with loops for both pins. Using the existing adjuster or by pass it altogether.This way there is no adjustment, an even engage and disengagement. Then a simple second locking device for the brake handle, where I can adjust it less tight. Problem solved.

 

[Barryh]

I am so pleased to see this thread developing. I too have had my share of difficulties with my 425's brakes. For one, I can't figure out why, with two separate cables, the brake will not engage unless BOTH pins are able to pass between the cogs/teeth of the wheel gears. I have tried a myriad of adjustments to the cables/springs, but unless both pins can get into the gear tooth interspaces, the brake will not engage.

Since I have reversed my wheels like FOURTEEN, I can readily see from the operator's seat what is going on when I move the brake lever. If one pin has a straight shot at a gear tooth interspace, and the other does not, no braking will occur. If I then jiggle the steering wheel to get the errant gear wheel back in sync, Voila! both pins shoot out to the interspaces and I am locked down. Why won't the pin on one side only travel to its full length if it has a straight shot?? What is it about a "blocked pin" on the other side that holds up the pin on the side with a straight shot to a gear interspace?

I do hope that MR and other thinkers can come up with a fix to this vexing problem. We have recently moved from the relatively flat lands of northern NC to the hilly (did I say 20-35 degree hilly?) territory of southwestern VA, and I need brakes......maybe this is a good excuse to move into a "red" PT with wet brakes....hmmmmmmmm.... or at least consider fitting a wet brake to the 425. Has anyone done/considered this?

As for why one of your pins won't engage unless both do, just a guess the cables are getting hung up together some where below, and it's using the dual spring tension to activate both?? I did not look below the floor plate, but my guess would be there may pulleys under there the cables ride on. Could be they need oiled or cleaned?? Just a thought.

 

[BobRip]

I decided to build a strawman "dog" to hold the brake handle down. This way I can loosen the friction clutch and the handle will be easy to move. You push the handle down and the dog falls into place to lock the brake off. You push the handle down, push the dog to the left and let the handle go to engage the brake. This is a little awkward and I hope to improve it. I may put a bump on the "pan handle" that hangs below the brake handle. This way when you push the brake handle down the dog is pushed to the left and partially disengaged.

This strawman dog looks awful, but seems to function OK. I made it from a scrap of deck board. I am not sure how well it will sand down. If it does not I will make it from something else. Either oak or metal. Wood seems like the best choice since it is easier to work and more people will copy it. Let's face it, my designs are no good unless they are copied by many others.
The dog is attached to the PT with a wood screw going through the flange above the brake handle. I have attached several pictures.

I have a very poor sketch attached. It does not quite match the dog.

 

[Barryh]

I decided to build a strawman "dog" to hold the brake handle down. This way I can loosen the friction clutch and the handle will be easy to move. You push the handle down and the dog falls into place to lock the brake off. You push the handle down, push the dog to the left and let the handle go to engage the brake. This is a little awkward and I hope to improve it. I may put a bump on the "pan handle" that hangs below the brake handle. This way when you push the brake handle down the dog is pushed to the left and partially disengaged.

This strawman dog looks awful, but seems to function OK. I made it from a scrap of deck board. I am not sure how well it will sand down. If it does not I will make it from something else. Either oak or metal. Wood seems like the best choice since it is easier to work and more people will copy it. Let's face it, my designs are no good unless they are copied by many others.
The dog is attached to the PT with a wood screw going through the flange above the brake handle. I have attached several pictures.

I have a very poor sketch attached. It does not quite match the dog.

That would be the kind of handle locking device that I was describing. Yours looks simple straight forward and effective. Nice job.

 

[Barryh]

I decided to build a strawman "dog" to hold the brake handle down. This way I can loosen the friction clutch and the handle will be easy to move. You push the handle down and the dog falls into place to lock the brake off. You push the handle down, push the dog to the left and let the handle go to engage the brake. This is a little awkward and I hope to improve it. I may put a bump on the "pan handle" that hangs below the brake handle. This way when you push the brake handle down the dog is pushed to the left and partially disengaged.

This strawman dog looks awful, but seems to function OK. I made it from a scrap of deck board. I am not sure how well it will sand down. If it does not I will make it from something else. Either oak or metal. Wood seems like the best choice since it is easier to work and more people will copy it. Let's face it, my designs are no good unless they are copied by many others.
The dog is attached to the PT with a wood screw going through the flange above the brake handle. I have attached several pictures.

I have a very poor sketch attached. It does not quite match the dog.

Good design, If it were me I might also spring load it, on top of the dog to help hold it in place. Just a thought.

 

[BobRip]

The dog is held in place (brake off) by springs of the brakes and the notch in the dog. It falls into lock (brake off) position when you push down on the handle. I need to use it a bunch to see how well it works, then I may modify it (add springs, change shape, etc.) I have only pushed the lever down once or twice and have not driven the PT with it on, yet. Your suggestion is appreciated. I hope others comment as well.
I sanded a piece of the material last night and it sands nicely.

 

[BobRip]

I drove around last night and used the brake about 10 times. It seemed to be much easier to use. I then installed a spring in one of the cables. It was much too weak so I had to remove it. I will try to get a stronger spring today.