Improving Parking Brake

[BobRip]

I think this is a big enough problem that I started a new thread.

On the parking brake, my biggest problem is disengaging it, with the second problem getting the lever friction adjusted so that it does not self engage, but it can be manually engaged. I have though about this a little. I would like a spring in each cable so the lever can be moved and then the pins can disengage separately as they are released by turning the wheel. Right now you have to get both pins loose simultaneously. Gee, that sounds good. Then I want a lever that locks the brake handle off. I only use my brakes when trailering because of the difficult to disengage problem.

What issues do others have?

 

[pajoube]

I think this is a big enough problem that I started a new thread.

On the parking brake, my biggest problem is disengaging it, with the second problem getting the lever friction adjusted so that it does not self engage, but it can be manually engaged. I have though about this a little. I would like a spring in each cable so the lever can be moved and then the pins can disengage separately as they are released by turning the wheel. Right now you have to get both pins loose simultaneously. Gee, that sounds good. Then I want a lever that locks the brake handle off. I only use my brakes when trailering because of the difficult to disengage problem.

What issues do others have?

I agree with you regarding how hard it is to disengage. I am at the point that I do not use the parking brake at all, even when trailering. Most of my driving is on level ground so the brake is not necessary.
PJ

 

[MossRoad]

I think the current setup has springs that hold the pins IN until you pull them out with the lever. That way, should the cable break, the pins will automatically engage. If you put in springs to hold them disengaged and the cable broke, the parking brake would automatically fail, not work. Could be dangerous?

I realize it is frustrating, and I hate the current setup as well. If you make it lose enough to operate comfortably, it won't stay disengaged, and if you tighten it enough to stay disengaged, it is hard to operate. However, I think there are TWO problems with the current parking brake setup.

1. The pin gets stuck due to the pressure of the tractor resting against the pins. That's when you have to drive back and forth and/or wriggle the tractor while pulling on the lever to get the pins to pop out.

2. The lever is hard to operate, even when there is no pressure against the pins being applied by the tractor.

I got to looking at the parking brake setup on my wife's Impala. You step on the pedal once to engage the parking brake and then you step on it again to disengage it. It uses a ratcheting setup and the first time you step on it, it pulls the brake cable. The second time you step on it, it releases the cable. I was thinking about getting one from a junkyard and playing around with it. I think there is enough room to mount it on the left side of the left footwell and not interfere with the left treadle pedal. New cable might have to be purchased for the right pin because this is a longer run, but I think there would be surplus for the left pin. Also, new pulleys may have to be run. Anyway, you could step on it with your left foot the first time to disengage it while driving the tractor back and forth and/or wriggling it with your right foot over or under the right pedal(we've all done that before anyway, so it is no big operator adjustment). Then, just step on it again to engage it and drive forward or backwards until the pins pop into the locked position. Sounds simple enough. I'll have to check it our further... when I have the time, of course!

 

[Barryh]

I think this is a big enough problem that I started a new thread.

On the parking brake, my biggest problem is disengaging it, with the second problem getting the lever friction adjusted so that it does not self engage, but it can be manually engaged. I have though about this a little. I would like a spring in each cable so the lever can be moved and then the pins can disengage separately as they are released by turning the wheel. Right now you have to get both pins loose simultaneously. Gee, that sounds good. Then I want a lever that locks the brake handle off. I only use my brakes when trailering because of the difficult to disengage problem.

What issues do others have?

Ok, I moved this over from Bob’s other thread (weight Box on 2 inch receiver PT422) per Bob’s suggestion.

I noticed my PT doing a lot of clicking this morn, pulled it in the garage and checked it out. The brake cable was frayed, and the little screw in bolt was stripped so the cable was slowly slipping and engaging the parking brake.

I took the front wheels off for the first time, pushed the spring loaded pins in against the hubs, took the little cable holder off turned it around. The other side still had a good thread so switched sides, adjusted and tightened it back down. Now it's all good.

I’m not too impressed with this setup either. I would think at least they could have made cables with small loops or fittings on the ends, so it would have to break before the brakes self engage. The way it's setup the bolt will dig into the cable, and split it down the middle, once adjusted and tightened, the cable is pretty damaged making it more difficult for any readjustments.

 

[Barryh]

I agree with you regarding how hard it is to disengage. I am at the point that I do not use the parking brake at all, even when trailering. Most of my driving is on level ground so the brake is not necessary.
PJ

After going through this, I will not be using my brakes unless absolutely necessary. I do tend to agree that we need a better setup. I will also be doing some more thinking on improvement or another braking system all together. As stated it can be a pain to get it on or off. I use my foot sometimes to push the lever down. Adjusted any looser, and the brakes try to self engage.

 

[RegL]

I agree with you regarding how hard it is to disengage. I am at the point that I do not use the parking brake at all, even when trailering. Most of my driving is on level ground so the brake is not necessary.
PJ

Just like the emergency brake in your car, If you never use it, it probably won't work when you do need it. I don't always use it on level ground but always engage it on slopes and while trailering. After 600+ hrs. It seems easier to disengage than when it was new. Could be I just have a better feel for it. One thing I have found is if you don't touch the steering wheel between the time you engage and disengage, it's a lot easier.

 

[toy]

I think this is a big enough problem that I started a new thread.

On the parking brake, my biggest problem is disengaging it, with the second problem getting the lever friction adjusted so that it does not self engage, but it can be manually engaged. I have though about this a little. I would like a spring in each cable so the lever can be moved and then the pins can disengage separately as they are released by turning the wheel. Right now you have to get both pins loose simultaneously. Gee, that sounds good. Then I want a lever that locks the brake handle off. I only use my brakes when trailering because of the difficult to disengage problem.

What issues do others have?

Like others have said , when I set my brakes and want to release it I move the machine to take the weight off the machines brake pins if it has drifted down against the pins that helps to release the brakes. Another thing is the lever is kind of hard on the hand the way it came from the factory to make this a little more user friendly I got a rubber chair tip or crutch tip that fit real snug on the lever then I got another that would fit snugly over that one. That makes the leversofter to the palm of the hand, and thus easier to use.

 

[MossRoad]

I agree with you regarding how hard it is to disengage. I am at the point that I do not use the parking brake at all, even when trailering. Most of my driving is on level ground so the brake is not necessary.
PJ

I used my brake about 20-30 times yesterday. Lots of on-off while cutting firewood with my in-laws out at the property (those hundred small trees that my daughter helped me drag out last spring). When trailering, I put the PT on the trailer and set the brakes. Then I chain the front, remove the brake and drive backwards until it is tight. Set the brake again and put the rear chain on, then release the brake and tighten the rear chain with the load binder. Then, I set the brake again. I figure, if a chain loosens and the unit rolls a bit, one of the pins will engage and keep it from rolling too far. I have seen the PT creep across the trailer on slight slopes when not chained and the brakes off. After about 10 minutes, it was a foot away from where I left it. With my luck, I'd put the unit on the trailer, get distracted before chaining both ends down, and come back to find the PT off the end of the trailer. So, I make it a safety habit to set the parking brake every time I get off the unit, no matter how darn hard or inconvenient it is.

The reason I am adamant about using the parking brake is that I had a good friend's brother in law pinned to a dirt pile by a skid steer that he didn't set the brake on. He died in a helicopter on the way to the hospital. Left a wife and four kids behind because he didn't set the brake with the unit running. It could have been avoided.

So, lets come up with fix for this pesky problem so that the safety device is more convenient to use! I'll try to call the junkyard this week and see how much they want for a parking brake pedal and assembly. If it is not too much, I'll run out and get one and start experimenting.

 

[BobRip]

I think the current setup has springs that hold the pins IN until you pull them out with the lever. That way, should the cable break, the pins will automatically engage. If you put in springs to hold them disengaged and the cable broke, the parking brake would automatically fail, not work. Could be dangerous?

I realize it is frustrating, and I hate the current setup as well. If you make it lose enough to operate comfortably, it won't stay disengaged, and if you tighten it enough to stay disengaged, it is hard to operate. However, I think there are TWO problems with the current parking brake setup.

1. The pin gets stuck due to the pressure of the tractor resting against the pins. That's when you have to drive back and forth and/or wriggle the tractor while pulling on the lever to get the pins to pop out.

2. The lever is hard to operate, even when there is no pressure against the pins being applied by the tractor.

I got to looking at the parking brake setup on my wife's Impala. You step on the pedal once to engage the parking brake and then you step on it again to disengage it. It uses a ratcheting setup and the first time you step on it, it pulls the brake cable. The second time you step on it, it releases the cable. I was thinking about getting one from a junkyard and playing around with it. I think there is enough room to mount it on the left side of the left footwell and not interfere with the left treadle pedal. New cable might have to be purchased for the right pin because this is a longer run, but I think there would be surplus for the left pin. Also, new pulleys may have to be run. Anyway, you could step on it with your left foot the first time to disengage it while driving the tractor back and forth and/or wriggling it with your right foot over or under the right pedal(we've all done that before anyway, so it is no big operator adjustment). Then, just step on it again to engage it and drive forward or back wards until the pins pop into the locked position. Sounds simple enough. I'll have to check it our further... when I have the time, of course!

Moss, I would put a spring in the cable to each pin. I would leave the existing springs alone. When you engage the brake the added spring would stretch until the pin came out. If the cable broke you would still get automatic braking. With the present system neither pin can be pulled until they both come loose. With the springs in the cable, they can disengage separately, hoepfully reducing the difficulty.

I like your idea of the parking brake from a car. You will be able to apply more force that with the short handle. You still might find that adding the cable springs would help. Let me know how it turns out. I will be pursuing my approaches. Let's compare and find the best way.

 

[BobRip]

I used my brake about 20-30 times yesterday. Lots of on-off while cutting firewood with my in-laws out at the property (those hundred small trees that my daughter helped me drag out last spring). When trailering, I put the PT on the trailer and set the brakes. Then I chain the front, remove the brake and drive backwards until it is tight. Set the brake again and put the rear chain on, then release the brake and tighten the rear chain with the load binder. Then, I set the brake again. I figure, if a chain loosens and the unit rolls a bit, one of the pins will engage and keep it from rolling too far. I have seen the PT creep across the trailer on slight slopes when not chained and the brakes off. After about 10 minutes, it was a foot away from where I left it. With my luck, I'd put the unit on the trailer, get distracted before chaining both ends down, and come back to find the PT off the end of the trailer. So, I make it a safety habit to set the parking brake every time I get off the unit, no matter how darn hard or inconvenient it is.

The reason I am adamant about using the parking brake is that I had a good friend's brother in law pinned to a dirt pile by a skid steer that he didn't set the brake on. He died in a helicopter on the way to the hospital. Left a wife and four kids behind because he didn't set the brake with the unit running. It could have been avoided.

So, lets come up with fix for this pesky problem so that the safety device is more convenient to use! I'll try to call the junkyard this week and see how much they want for a parking brake pedal and assembly. If it is not too much, I'll run out and get one and start experimenting.

Great, get her done!