Increase Kubota FEL tilt

[4570Man]

Of course you can. It is not a telescoping cylinder, the cylinder is pushing a gear that meshes with the rack. As the wheel is pushed forward and turns, the rack gets sent forward. Between the length of the hydraulic cylinder AND the length of the rack, you get twice the distance traveled, at the same force.

It is mechanical over hydraulic...

That’s simple leverage 101. Double the distance traveled with the same force applied is half the force. If you want to double the distance traveled and maintain the same force you’ll need a bigger or longer cylinder. A loader can’t lift anything close to what the cylinders can push because it’s lost a lot to leverage.

 

[KWentling]

I'm with Viny here. I don't get it. I think I get the doubling the stroke concept, but not retaining the power.

I couldn't really picture this in my mind the first time you suggested it. Is there an example you could refer to to illustrate this idea? Perhaps a Youtube video or pictures of something similar? Thanks in advance!

 

[4570Man]

I'm with Viny here. I don't get it. I think I get the doubling the stroke concept, but not retaining the power.

Something like this is what he’s talking about. You’re going to lose half the power to move twice as far plus friction losses. And that looks too bulky and complicated to use in the application. Application of rack pinion mechanism 1 - YouTube

 

[KWentling]

That's what I was thinking of too. And agree with the big losses.

Something like this is what he’s talking about. You’re going to lose half the power to move twice as far plus friction losses. And that looks too bulky and complicated to use in the application. Application of rack pinion mechanism 1 - YouTube

 

[SnailTraX]

Why not add or make a new bracket at the top of the top cylinder on the loader arm. Please excuse my poor photo editing skills. Rough looking drawing at the top of cylinder.

 

[Viny]

Mikester's solution is probably the best and the easiest to do.

If you really want to, you could also modify the loader. The way they mounted the curl cylinders, makes it actually easier to modify the position. It could probably help with other attachments as well but it's a bit more complex to do.

This is what I did on my homemade loader and it's used in most loaders. This linkage allows for more curl back and dump angles without compromising the force of the cylinders. To get this the way I wanted, I played with CAD programs a lot and made lots of changes till I was happy. This can also be done with a simple cardboard or MDF or something like that.

Playing with this linkage exactly right, you can retain the same cylinders without modifications.

Well, TBN is a bit messed up at the moment and it's hard to add pictures. Hopefully it works.

Well, I think I'm most intrigued with your solution at this point. A separate adapter being a close second.

So, looking back on your process to arrive at your solution, if you had to do it again, how would you proceed? Is there anything you'd do differently? Any other questions like this, that I can't think of, that I should ask? Thanks in advance for any guidance!

 

[ptsg]

Well, I think I'm most intrigued with your solution at this point. A separate adapter being a close second.

So, looking back on your process to arrive at your solution, if you had to do it again, how would you proceed? Is there anything you'd do differently? Any other questions like this, that I can't think of, that I should ask? Thanks in advance for any guidance!

In my case, I designed and built the entire loader myself, including machining the cylinders. It wasn't too hard since it was part of the design.

On your case, it's a bit more complicated. To add the linkage, you would need to move the rear cylinder mount back a bit, and probably move the holes on the quick attach down as well, so there is space for the linkage and to get the right geometry.

This will of course require some tooling. You'll need to open some big holes, cutting and weld stuff, and so on. This can be quite a complex project if you're not into fabrication.

SnailtraX also gave a pretty nice solution. You would add another rear cylinder mount in front of your current one. And every time you used that mower, you would move the cylinders to the forward hole.

Now, I was looking at it a bit more closely and noticed that your loader have two stops welded in the bottom. This would need to be removed or moved in order to get more tilt. Not messing with this stop, means you're option now is modifying the hitch on the mower.

 

[Viny]

In my case, I designed and built the entire loader myself, including machining the cylinders. It wasn't too hard since it was part of the design.

On your case, it's a bit more complicated. To add the linkage, you would need to move the rear cylinder mount back a bit, and probably move the holes on the quick attach down as well, so there is space for the linkage and to get the right geometry.

This will of course require some tooling. You'll need to open some big holes, cutting and weld stuff, and so on. This can be quite a complex project if you're not into fabrication.

SnailtraX also gave a pretty nice solution. You would add another rear cylinder mount in front of your current one. And every time you used that mower, you would move the cylinders to the forward hole.

Now, I was looking at it a bit more closely and noticed that your loader have two stops welded in the bottom. This would need to be removed or moved in order to get more tilt. Not messing with this stop, means you're option now is modifying the hitch on the mower.

Well that's quite impressive that you built that entire thing. I am into fabrication, though this might be a bridge too far. We'll see...

I will revisit that option of additional mounting holes for the rear of the cylinders. I must either have missed that or just didn't "get" it.

The stops worked with the factory bucket. I need to see if they'll be in the way.

 

[Viny]

So, more out of the box, brainstorming here. In the vein of adding additional mounting brackets for the rear of the cylinders, instead, how about the addition of a hinged affair on the business end of the cylinders? What I'm envisioning here is a 2 piece (for each side) over-grown hinge that would sit in between the cylinder and the quick-attach plate. The difference here is that it would be constructed to allow the hinge to be closed and bolted shut for a shorter length. The tension would then be removed via setting the loader on the ground and the bolt removed and the additional length (hence angle) would present itself as the "hinge" unfolded.

I was thinking about the lack of rigidity of this(when open) being a possible problem, but I suspect the top arms are mostly in tension. (I'd need some smarter guys to confirm that).

The upside of this idea, imo, is that it would be fairly easy to build and not require really any additional modification to the loader. Thoughts?

 

[Xfaxman]

My brush hog has a hinged SSQA mount plate:

You could make one on your mower with the hinge pin at the bottom and a way to lock the hinge while using:

Then sell the idea to Trailblazer. :thumbsup: