Tires industrial tires vs agri

[k0ua]

R2's/ Rice-n-Canes When you absolutely need traction at all costs in extreme conditions. They weight and cost too much for a CUT..... they will destroy your yard/nonindustrial tractor and ride like.....well a giant mud tire. But they'll pull till you hit the belly pan........

R1's- OK in wet conditions. All around tractor tire...... really an all-terrain. Good for the CUT owner that has a larger machine, works in some wet conditions, or does a good bit of ground engagement......

R4's- IMO what most CUT owners with 4X4 tractors under 40hp are going to like the best because they are doing a good bit of loader work, work in the yard, and dry condition work. Poor choice in wet or low traction conditions but will ride nice and protect yards making them THE choice for the vast majority of CUT owners....


my take after running many hours on all these type tires

Very well said. I have never owned turfs or rice tires, but have had ags and R4's and agree with the above.

James K0UA

 

[IronHog]

Very well said. I have never owned turfs or rice tires, but have had ags and R4's and agree with the above.

James K0UA

I've also never had turf tires on anything beyond a lawn tractor. Those are clearly for mowing machines, where lawn care is at a premium, or a tractor that lives on hard pack.


If you've never run on a set of R2's it is unbelievable how much difference they make if you need real traction in difficult conditions.... and they are unbelievably tough. We've had sets last decades on hard use industrial/farm/logging tractors (stuff that would destroy a CUT in a week)..... but they are a real pain for daily use and very expensive. The universal rise of the 4X4 tractor has largely made them obsolete as they could be very hard on the drivetrain of a 4X4 tractor............BUT if you have a 2wd tractor and NEED the traction/durability they are worth a look.

 

[koisw]

If industrial tires would actually outpull an Ag tire then wouldn't every farm tractor that does any tillage work be running industrials? Since the only machines outside of compact tractors using industrial tires are construction (where they are on a lot of hard ground) it would seem to suggest that your results are indicating a severe problem with your Kioti with ag tires.

Industrial tires are designed for max traction and strength on hard surfaces. Their not designed for superior traction in mud. Ag tires are.

I would wonder though that if your Kioti isn't actually acting up then is it possible your ground isn't as bad as you believe it is and that your industrial tires hold more ballast would help make up the difference in traction?

One thing I do agree with is if your primary use is loader work then R4's are the better option but R1's do work fine for loader work and if your doing loader work in sloppy conditions the R1's will actually allow you to keep working. I have two loader tractors (a 53 horse and 30 horse) and both have R1's. The bigger tractor is better in mud but it had more ground clearance and weight. The lighter tractor in soft ground sinks fast because it has very skinny front tires. Its not my ideal machine for loader work in muck but it will make it in and back out.

Well said. Be nice if you could switch easily back and forth between the two for summer/ winter. The whole filled makes that pretty difficult, but possible.

 

[mikehaugen]

I have a 2wd jd 1070 with 44x18-20 turfs. It is good for finish mowing (notice good, not great- it will spin on grass backing up a hill sometimes) but absolutely terrible in anything else. no chains and no fill so snow plowing with a rear blade is a real chore.

I bought a fel last year for it and am considering purchasing a box blade for occasional use. I also picked up a set of rims and was deciding on r-1's or r-4's to use for an extra set for the box blade and hopefully very seldom use of a 2-bottom. Reading this has made up my mind to go with the r-1's since I have the turfs to put on most of the time. I really don't want to fill them, just because of the switching back and forth.

One question I do still have is 6 ply, 8 ply, or possibly 10? I'm thinking 8. My tractor is 39hp (35pto) weighs right around 3000lbs with no implement. 3pt will lift 2000lbs.

 

[SSdoxie]

I have a 2wd jd 1070 with 44x18-20 turfs. It is good for finish mowing (notice good, not great- it will spin on grass backing up a hill sometimes) but absolutely terrible in anything else. no chains and no fill so snow plowing with a rear blade is a real chore.

I bought a fel last year for it and am considering purchasing a box blade for occasional use. I also picked up a set of rims and was deciding on r-1's or r-4's to use for an extra set for the box blade and hopefully very seldom use of a 2-bottom. Reading this has made up my mind to go with the r-1's since I have the turfs to put on most of the time. I really don't want to fill them, just because of the switching back and forth.

One question I do still have is 6 ply, 8 ply, or possibly 10? I'm thinking 8. My tractor is 39hp (35pto) weighs right around 3000lbs with no implement. 3pt will lift 2000lbs.

What are you using for tires on front? You don't need to change the fronts with 2 wd, but when adding a loader the front is the more critical for ply/load rating of the tire. I have 6 ply rears & 8 ply fronts in R1 and tractor weighs 3060# naked before the loader & rear lift is 1800#. Same tractor with R4 is 6 ply all around.

 

[Reg]

I have a 2wd jd 1070 with 44x18-20 turfs. It is good for finish mowing (notice good, not great- it will spin on grass backing up a hill sometimes) but absolutely terrible in anything else. no chains and no fill so snow plowing with a rear blade is a real chore.

I bought a fel last year for it and am considering purchasing a box blade for occasional use. I also picked up a set of rims and was deciding on r-1's or r-4's to use for an extra set for the box blade and hopefully very seldom use of a 2-bottom. Reading this has made up my mind to go with the r-1's since I have the turfs to put on most of the time. I really don't want to fill them, just because of the switching back and forth.

One question I do still have is 6 ply, 8 ply, or possibly 10? I'm thinking 8. My tractor is 39hp (35pto) weighs right around 3000lbs with no implement. 3pt will lift 2000lbs.

If you plan on doing much FEL work with HEAVY loads figure on using R4s at least on the front.
Even if you put R1s on the rear the R4s on the front would be better for not sinking when carrying a load and the load rating of R1s pretty much dictates R4s for loader work anyway.
Since yours is 2WD you don't have to figure rolling circumference ratios (-:

For just about exactly $300 a set of Peerless DUO chains on those turfs would make a REAL difference for snow removal, even get you around on ice.
I would probably bet my megamillions ticket they would beat out R1s, especially given their WIDTH.

If this link doesn't work start at their home page;
107 Series Duo-Trac Tractor Tire Chains (Pair) Tractor
or
Tire Chains, Truck Chains, Car Chains and Traction Cables click on tractors, find your size, etc.

At something like 55 lbs lbs each the free shipping makes it a REALLY good deal, the other big web order tractor chain place is little/no cheaper, charges shipping and admits to selling Chinese imported chain - nothing WRONG with that if they were way cheaper, but I liked the idea of Peerless chains - they drop shipped mine directly from Peerless.

BTW, the set for 17.5L24 R4s is the same width and has one more DUO cross assembly in it, I bought that set since I have 44x18x20 turfs as well as the R4s for my little'est tractor.

The 44x18x20 take set number 1077010
the 17.5L24 take set number is 1077610, basic difference is 6 cross assemblies vs 5 for the turf set.

My 17.5L24s are loaded with RimGuard, 900 or so pounds each.
Not too bad to swap, I use an engine crane with a strap, I just NEED a couple of feet of smooth clean concrete walk path to roll the crane out/in.
The turfs are easy to roll around by hand or I would need two engine cranes..

 

[mikehaugen]

Thanks for the info guys. The loader probably won't see that much use, it will be off most of the time. I would like to say maybe 3-4 times a year it will be used, but I imagine the more I use it the more uses I will find for it. How would the r-4's be to use year round on the lawn? Is that something I need to consider changing on and off as well?

 

[Reg]

Thanks for the info guys. The loader probably won't see that much use, it will be off most of the time. I would like to say maybe 3-4 times a year it will be used, but I imagine the more I use it the more uses I will find for it. How would the r-4's be to use year round on the lawn? Is that something I need to consider changing on and off as well?

I don't have "lawn" as such, but it is my subjective opinion that the thing that tears up grass is the front tires when doing sharp turns, PARTICULARLY when wet. If I stay reasonably straight on very wet grass the R4s will "print", but if allowed some time to settle and grow out it is acceptable (to ME, as mere "grass", not "lawn").
It would be a very different matter if I was a putting green quality lawn guy and had to turn on it sharply with full loads in the bucket, when wet - but that is a situation that is better avoided than solved, e.g. I would find another route (-:

 

[k0ua]

Thanks for the info guys. The loader probably won't see that much use, it will be off most of the time. I would like to say maybe 3-4 times a year it will be used, but I imagine the more I use it the more uses I will find for it. How would the r-4's be to use year round on the lawn? Is that something I need to consider changing on and off as well?

Mike you will use the loader all the time.. Trust me on this, You will find new uses you would never imagine. It replaces wheelbarrow's and carts, it is just TOO useful. Be sure to put some chain hooks on it, and get a log chain or 2 (I have 4) and you will be lifting all sorts of things. Besides being so useful, it is just plain fun to use hydraulics R4 are fine on a lawn, just try not to turn too tightly and not when it is too wet.

James K0UA

 

[crazyal]

In that case you keep an eye on the tires at max rated inflation. If they squat too much take a hard look at the inflation info on the side wall. It will say something like: "MAX inflation 35 PSI when seating the beads" On my tires this is 20% above the rated pressure. Now, with the tire bead not seated, and therefore distorted, the tire integrity is relatively greatly threatened. If they think 20% over is safe then, imagine how safe it is when the tire is correctly seated. I have never needed to go above 30PSI on my 28 psi rated fronts, but I wouldnt hesitate to go to 35 or even 40 if I needed it. I once accidently filled one to 70 PSI with water. I would definitely NOT recommend, but it just goes to show what they will take.
larry

On my 4240 there's no lip on the rim for the bead to get over to seat itself. So the tire just has a maximum pressure and weight.