Info on Hydraulic Top Link needed

[Turkeytrack]

I am ready to build a hydraulic top link for my M8540. I have a new box blade from EA due to arrive on the 28th, so I will need the top link. What I need to know is what length cylinder I need, the retracted length , and the stroke. I have already decided on a 3" bore with a 1.5" rod.
Thanks in advance

 

[TractorTech]

Tisco offers this cylinder for your application: HTL3101, Category l and ll Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder. 3" bore, 8" stroke, 20" closed length, 28" open length, 12.438" barrel length, 3/4" diameter rod end, 1-3/4" rod width, 1" diameter base end, 1-3/4" base width, 3-1/2" base to ball center length.
To determine correct dimensions, measure you toplink hole to hole closed then opened all the way with 1" of thread left in the center section. 3X8" cylinders are pretty standard, but note the 1.75" rod diameter.

 

[TripleR]

Contact Brian (MtnViewRanch)at Fit-Rite Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com he has the specs and made one for mine, great price nd service.

 

[bubbacuse77]

I made one a couple years ago. find the size bore you want and the stroke length you desire then weld extensions on to the length you need to make it work. important that you have enough of an extension that the cylinder doesn't bind against where it connects to the tractor.

 

[LD1]

Larger rid on a rolling is not always a good thing.

I used a 3x12 cylinder with cat II eyes for my MX. And IIRC, it's 22" closed or there abouts, and goes to 34" extended.

It goes plenty short enough to load implements on my deck over trailer. I haven't found a need that would require it to go shorter. I do not think I would be happy with a 20-28" range. Under normal operation, im 26-28. So I would basically be out of travel.

 

[CADplans]

I do not think I would be happy with a 20-28" range. Under normal operation, im 26-28. So I would basically be out of travel.

The 20-28 travel range duplicates a standard CAT I top link,,,
BUT, like you say, I never find a use for the top link adjusted to the shortest length, hydraulic, or mechanical.

I guess when the top link is adjusted to only 20 inches long,, it is easier to ship!!?? :laughing:

 

[Arc weld]

You want to have check valves on a hyd. top link so it will hold it's position.

http://www.haytools.com/images/Hyd_Cat1_short.jpg

 

[LD1]

You want to have check valves on a hyd. top link so it will hold it's position.

http://www.haytools.com/images/Hyd_Cat1_short.jpg

That's a double edge sword.

There are benefits to both. But with check valves, you cannot operate in float. There are good reasons to be able to float both a top and side link. If you don't have float valves, or no use for float, then by all means get a cylinder with checks.

If you can make use of float and have float valves, then dont get a cylinder with checks

 

[LD1]

The 20-28 travel range duplicates a standard CAT I top link,,,
BUT, like you say, I never find a use for the top link adjusted to the shortest length, hydraulic, or mechanical.

I guess when the top link is adjusted to only 20 inches long,, it is easier to ship!!?? :laughing:

I cannot be positive, but I believe my oem Kubota link (which has both a cat I and a cat II eye), had more than 8" of range. And the OPs 8540 is certainly not a cat I

 

[pmsmechanic]

I made a hydraulic top link for my JD 4410 out of a standard 3" x 8" stroke agricultural cylinder. The stroke was a bit longer than I needed so I cut part of the barrel off and put everything back together. I welded a three point hitch top link eye to each end and I was in business. I used a splitter that I had lying around and ran 1/4 inch hoses so that the cylinder speeds would be slow. All in all my cost out of pocket was about $130.