Info on Hydraulic Top Link needed

[Turkeytrack]

I am ready to build a hydraulic top link for my M8540. I have a new box blade from EA due to arrive on the 28th, so I will need the top link. What I need to know is what length cylinder I need, the retracted length , and the stroke. I have already decided on a 3" bore with a 1.5" rod.
Thanks in advance

 

[TractorTech]

Tisco offers this cylinder for your application: HTL3101, Category l and ll Hydraulic Top Link Cylinder. 3" bore, 8" stroke, 20" closed length, 28" open length, 12.438" barrel length, 3/4" diameter rod end, 1-3/4" rod width, 1" diameter base end, 1-3/4" base width, 3-1/2" base to ball center length.
To determine correct dimensions, measure you toplink hole to hole closed then opened all the way with 1" of thread left in the center section. 3X8" cylinders are pretty standard, but note the 1.75" rod diameter.

 

[TripleR]

Contact Brian (MtnViewRanch)at Fit-Rite Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com he has the specs and made one for mine, great price nd service.

 

[bubbacuse77]

I made one a couple years ago. find the size bore you want and the stroke length you desire then weld extensions on to the length you need to make it work. important that you have enough of an extension that the cylinder doesn't bind against where it connects to the tractor.

 

[LD1]

Larger rid on a rolling is not always a good thing.

I used a 3x12 cylinder with cat II eyes for my MX. And IIRC, it's 22" closed or there abouts, and goes to 34" extended.

It goes plenty short enough to load implements on my deck over trailer. I haven't found a need that would require it to go shorter. I do not think I would be happy with a 20-28" range. Under normal operation, im 26-28. So I would basically be out of travel.

 

[CADplans]

I do not think I would be happy with a 20-28" range. Under normal operation, im 26-28. So I would basically be out of travel.

The 20-28 travel range duplicates a standard CAT I top link,,,
BUT, like you say, I never find a use for the top link adjusted to the shortest length, hydraulic, or mechanical.

I guess when the top link is adjusted to only 20 inches long,, it is easier to ship!!?? :laughing:

 

[Arc weld]

You want to have check valves on a hyd. top link so it will hold it's position.

http://www.haytools.com/images/Hyd_Cat1_short.jpg

 

[LD1]

You want to have check valves on a hyd. top link so it will hold it's position.

http://www.haytools.com/images/Hyd_Cat1_short.jpg

That's a double edge sword.

There are benefits to both. But with check valves, you cannot operate in float. There are good reasons to be able to float both a top and side link. If you don't have float valves, or no use for float, then by all means get a cylinder with checks.

If you can make use of float and have float valves, then dont get a cylinder with checks

 

[LD1]

The 20-28 travel range duplicates a standard CAT I top link,,,
BUT, like you say, I never find a use for the top link adjusted to the shortest length, hydraulic, or mechanical.

I guess when the top link is adjusted to only 20 inches long,, it is easier to ship!!?? :laughing:

I cannot be positive, but I believe my oem Kubota link (which has both a cat I and a cat II eye), had more than 8" of range. And the OPs 8540 is certainly not a cat I

 

[pmsmechanic]

I made a hydraulic top link for my JD 4410 out of a standard 3" x 8" stroke agricultural cylinder. The stroke was a bit longer than I needed so I cut part of the barrel off and put everything back together. I welded a three point hitch top link eye to each end and I was in business. I used a splitter that I had lying around and ran 1/4 inch hoses so that the cylinder speeds would be slow. All in all my cost out of pocket was about $130.

 

[Turkeytrack]

Thanks bubbacuse77. The photos are great. Your link looks good

 

[Turkeytrack]

Thanks for the link TrippleR but I plan to buy cylinder and modify it to what I need. I try to do everything i can myself.That is why I am requesting specs for a cylinder , don't want to buy one that will not work

 

[LD1]

What you need to do is hook up to a few of your implements you use frequently. Just hook up the lower arms and set to about operating height.

Then measure pin center to pin center the length the toplink needs to be. If you have multiple locations to put the toplink on the tractor side, I'd use the middle hole. Write down your results, as they are likely to be different.

Might look something like this:
Bushhog.....28"
Rear blade 26"
Trailer mover 25"
box blade 27"

etc etc.

Take your shortest number and subtract 4". Take the highest and add 4"

In the example above, that would be 25" -4" and 28" + 4". Which is 21"-32". Thats the range I'd shoot for in a cylinder.


as mentined, I have a 3x12. I would probably be happy with a 3x10....but certainly not a 3x8. Too much variation in my implements and how I use them.

And if I had an 8540, I'd probably be considering a 3.5" bore cylinder. Not that a 3" or even a 2.5" wouldnt have the power, but a larger bore lowers the pressure needed to do the work, and lowers the pressure spikes in the cylinder and hoses when you have something heavy bouncing around over bumpy ground.

 

[Turkeytrack]

Thanks LD1. I think the measuring is a good idea. All I am going to use the hydraulic top link for is a landscape rake and a box blade. My bushhog is a pull type batwing , i just set the OEM toplink for the hay unroller, and my hay rake is hydraulic and once i get my cutting machine angle set i don't mess with it.That about covers everything i use the 3 pt for. The only other 2 implements i have are a litter spreader and an aerator, they are both pull type.

 

[TripleR]

Thanks for the link TrippleR but I plan to buy cylinder and modify it to what I need. I try to do everything i can myself.That is why I am requesting specs for a cylinder , don't want to buy one that will not work

Mine is not on my tractor now or I would measure it for you, see if this helps:http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/273331-hydraulic-top-link-homemade.html?highlight=

 

[Leejohn]

On my 4240 I use a 14" stroke, the B7800 I use a 12" and my BX2660 I have a 10" on it. I use mine different then you need right now. My forks for my B7800 I use on the 3pt along with the loader and that is nice. The L4240 when I use my carry all as a weight box I can just dump the gravel out of it.

 

[Turkeytrack]

The box blade I ordered from Everything Attachments arrived yesterday. I got the large shank heavy duty 8' one. I hooked it up and measured my OEM top link,it is 29" center pin/center pin. I ordered a cylinder from Surplus Center, it id 22 1/4" retracted,3" bore,1.5"rod,12" stroke. It has clevis ends, I am going to make a "poor boy's" pivot block for the ends. But bow season opens tomorrow so i won't do much except hunt and work till after the first of the year.
I want to thank everybody for all the good advise and suggestions

 

[LD1]

The box blade I ordered from Everything Attachments arrived yesterday. I got the large shank heavy duty 8' one. I hooked it up and measured my OEM top link,it is 29" center pin/center pin. I ordered a cylinder from Surplus Center, it id 22 1/4" retracted,3" bore,1.5"rod,12" stroke. It has clevis ends, I am going to make a "poor boy's" pivot block for the ends. But bow season opens tomorrow so i won't do much except hunt and work till after the first of the year.
I want to thank everybody for all the good advise and suggestions

Sounds like the specs for the cylinder I used. You would NOT have been happy with an 8" cylinder and 20-28 range.

I'd just get the ball swivels. They are only a few bucks each.

Category 2 Top Link Ball End, 1-1/8 In Shank Diameter

 

[Turkeytrack]

Sounds like the specs for the cylinder I used. You would NOT have been happy with an 8" cylinder and 20-28 range.

I'd just get the ball swivels. They are only a few bucks each.

Category 2 Top Link Ball End, 1-1/8 In Shank Diameter

I may get a ball swivel for the work (rod) end , but I don't want to weld on the barrel end because we will be swapping it from my M8540 to a friends JD7130 and I did NOT measure his JD. If I use a block pivot on the barrel end I can make longer (if need be)by making another ,longer, block pivot
LD1 Thank You

 

[LD1]

Fair enough. I only had one tractor to deal with when making mine.

This post shows how mine turned out http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...mx5100-3-remotes-under-500-a.html#post4517053