Dusty
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- bx22
Get a family of skunks to take up house keeping under the tractor. No thief will both it..
Inovative anti-theft ideas?
- Thread starter woodlandfarms
- Start date
- Views: 34201
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Kendall69 said:
Do you live in one of those communist states where the state regime doesn't all the citizenship to effectively defend itself thru the use of legally concealed weapons? if so. I'm sorry for you.
I have my 'carry' gun with me every place that it is not prohibited by state law.
Soundguy
Soundguy
Old Timer
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- RK 55HC,ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC
Dusty said:Get a family of skunks to take up house keeping under the tractor. No thief will both it..
Perhaps that, and the trained killer bees that spit mace, and the invisible attack dogs.!!
Soundguy
patrick_g
Elite Member
Soundguy said:
I had a good mated pair of invisible attack dogs but couldn't get a decent price for any of their pups as they certainly weren't much to look at!
Pat
patrick_g
Elite Member
A couple requirements of an alarm or theft prevention system: Must be convenient to use or in time it will not be used. It must not be easy to defeat. We often make jokes about DUMB criminals but they aren’t always stupid, just are motivated by different philosophy than the rest of us. There ARE some smart thieves.
Many alarm systems use magnetic switches to protect doors and windows. If the magnet is removed from the immediate location of the switch then the switch changes state, either from open to closed or closed to open depending on its type. Either way the change of state of the switch triggers the alarm. Restoring the switch to the “SAFE” or set position does not stop the alarm.
If equipment such as tractors and implements can be stored close to a location with an alarm system then the alarm system can be relatively easily extended to protect the stored equipment.
Most alarm systems are set up in zones. A zone may have one or more sensors. For example, all the doors to your workshop may constitute a single zone. This is good if you want to know that a door is open or was opened but don’t care which one. Opening any door can trigger the alarm but closing the door does not stop the alarm.
To protect a tractor or other equipment you can run a wire through it like you would a cable lock but the wire is not for physical security it is part of the nearby alarm system. If the wire is cut by a thief or broken as the equipment is moved the alarm is triggered. This is equivalent to NC Normally Closed) contacts. Restoring the wire will not stop the alarm. The wire is a NC (Normally Closed) alarm sensor.
Some alarm panels accommodate either NC or NO sensors. If your alarm panel will not handle both NO and NC sensors than you will need a small relay to use the “sensor” I’m describing. (schematic and description to be provided.)
Alas, the “smart” thief may see the wire, deduce its use, and seek to defeat it. Carefully cutting through the jacket and insulation of the wire on both sides of the protected equipment and connecting the bared spots with his own wire will allow him to cut the wire and free the equipment without being detected. But wait… what if when he cut the jacket away there were 10 separate insulated wires. Then what? Which to cut??? Do you feel lucky, punk!!!
One of the ten wires does what the single wire did in the example above; provide a normally closed contact to the alarm panel. The other wires are not just dummies or the bad guy could just jumper them all, one at a time and take the equipment. The other nine wires are not continuous. They are in fact not connected to a pair of connectors in the middle of the run of alarm wire. If the bad guy jumps a wire that is not continuous, making it continuous, the alarm is triggered. The other nine wire pairs are in parallel and constitute a NO (Normally Open) alarm sensor.
The system isn’t foolproof. The bad guy could in fact guess the right wire to jump or he might win the lottery while on the way to steal your tractor and not go to your place. He might have a portable X-ray unit to see which wires are connected inside the metal connector body. He might be psychic. I’ll gladly set up a prototype and invite all comers to try to defeat it. Here is the deal: You pay $3 to try and I pay you $10 if you succeed. Of course, only the innumerate among you will want to try as the rest note the actual odds of success are only one in ten. Unless the thief reads here at this forum he won’t know anything about the way this simple sensor is wired and if he reads here it doesn’t reduce the odds of the alarm going off. With ten conductors the odds are 90% that the alarm will trigger. I would feel pretty good with even 5 conductors and an 80% chance of the alarm going off.
Probably, the thief will do one of two things: 1. Not have a clue and set the alarm off without trying to defeat it because he didn’t notice the cable or 2. Figure it is some sort of alarm thingy and not have a clue about how to try to defeat it. In a very small minority of cases a thief might try to defeat it and most likely fail. Even with a pro thief or even with me the designer of the system, there would still be a 90% chance of setting off the alarm.
Parts list:
item# Quan Description
1...........2....bulkhead mount multi-pin connectors
2 ..........2....mating cable connectors to fit item 1.
3...........1....male cable connector to fit item 4
4...........1....female cable connector to fit item 3
5.........as needed... multi conductor cable
6.........as needed... alarm sensor cable (2 conductor)
One pin of each of the bulkhead connectors is wired by alarm sensor wire which goes to the alarm panel (NC sensor.) These same pins on the bulkhead connectors mate to the pins on the cable connectors whose wires are connected to the cable connectors in the middle of the cable run. This is the NC sensor system.
All the other pins on the bulkhead connector are jumpered to each other within that connector and a single connection from the each jumpered group is connected to an alarm cable and run to the alarm panel. This is a NO sensor system.
Inside the cable connectors near the middle of the cable run (goes through the tractor) only the two previously connected wires are connected, one inside each connector shell. All the other wires are tied into a strain relief knot in their respective connector shells and are not connected to connector pins.
The NO and NC sensor cables are attached to the alarm panel. Now the tractor alarm cable must be plugged into both bulkhead connectors and the cable connectors near the middle of the alarm cable must be plugged into each other to be able to set the alarm. If not plugged in it is like leaving a door or window open so far as the alarm is concerned.
For anyone not having a conveniently located alarm panel but who would like some protection like a loud siren and or strobe light, I can describe how to wire up the above security cable to do that without an alarm panel. It is simple to do and is pretty cheap depending on how much you spend on lights and sirens battery and charger. I recommend battery operation so loss of power does not stop the alarm action.
Oh, to save $ yo can skip the bulkhead connectors and mating cable connectors and drill a hole in the wall for the cable. Tie a knot in the cable and secure it to the wall with cable clamps. Yo can just wire it the same as the instructions for the "FANCY" version and it will work fine several $ cheaper.
Pat
Many alarm systems use magnetic switches to protect doors and windows. If the magnet is removed from the immediate location of the switch then the switch changes state, either from open to closed or closed to open depending on its type. Either way the change of state of the switch triggers the alarm. Restoring the switch to the “SAFE” or set position does not stop the alarm.
If equipment such as tractors and implements can be stored close to a location with an alarm system then the alarm system can be relatively easily extended to protect the stored equipment.
Most alarm systems are set up in zones. A zone may have one or more sensors. For example, all the doors to your workshop may constitute a single zone. This is good if you want to know that a door is open or was opened but don’t care which one. Opening any door can trigger the alarm but closing the door does not stop the alarm.
To protect a tractor or other equipment you can run a wire through it like you would a cable lock but the wire is not for physical security it is part of the nearby alarm system. If the wire is cut by a thief or broken as the equipment is moved the alarm is triggered. This is equivalent to NC Normally Closed) contacts. Restoring the wire will not stop the alarm. The wire is a NC (Normally Closed) alarm sensor.
Some alarm panels accommodate either NC or NO sensors. If your alarm panel will not handle both NO and NC sensors than you will need a small relay to use the “sensor” I’m describing. (schematic and description to be provided.)
Alas, the “smart” thief may see the wire, deduce its use, and seek to defeat it. Carefully cutting through the jacket and insulation of the wire on both sides of the protected equipment and connecting the bared spots with his own wire will allow him to cut the wire and free the equipment without being detected. But wait… what if when he cut the jacket away there were 10 separate insulated wires. Then what? Which to cut??? Do you feel lucky, punk!!!
One of the ten wires does what the single wire did in the example above; provide a normally closed contact to the alarm panel. The other wires are not just dummies or the bad guy could just jumper them all, one at a time and take the equipment. The other nine wires are not continuous. They are in fact not connected to a pair of connectors in the middle of the run of alarm wire. If the bad guy jumps a wire that is not continuous, making it continuous, the alarm is triggered. The other nine wire pairs are in parallel and constitute a NO (Normally Open) alarm sensor.
The system isn’t foolproof. The bad guy could in fact guess the right wire to jump or he might win the lottery while on the way to steal your tractor and not go to your place. He might have a portable X-ray unit to see which wires are connected inside the metal connector body. He might be psychic. I’ll gladly set up a prototype and invite all comers to try to defeat it. Here is the deal: You pay $3 to try and I pay you $10 if you succeed. Of course, only the innumerate among you will want to try as the rest note the actual odds of success are only one in ten. Unless the thief reads here at this forum he won’t know anything about the way this simple sensor is wired and if he reads here it doesn’t reduce the odds of the alarm going off. With ten conductors the odds are 90% that the alarm will trigger. I would feel pretty good with even 5 conductors and an 80% chance of the alarm going off.
Probably, the thief will do one of two things: 1. Not have a clue and set the alarm off without trying to defeat it because he didn’t notice the cable or 2. Figure it is some sort of alarm thingy and not have a clue about how to try to defeat it. In a very small minority of cases a thief might try to defeat it and most likely fail. Even with a pro thief or even with me the designer of the system, there would still be a 90% chance of setting off the alarm.
Parts list:
item# Quan Description
1...........2....bulkhead mount multi-pin connectors
2 ..........2....mating cable connectors to fit item 1.
3...........1....male cable connector to fit item 4
4...........1....female cable connector to fit item 3
5.........as needed... multi conductor cable
6.........as needed... alarm sensor cable (2 conductor)
One pin of each of the bulkhead connectors is wired by alarm sensor wire which goes to the alarm panel (NC sensor.) These same pins on the bulkhead connectors mate to the pins on the cable connectors whose wires are connected to the cable connectors in the middle of the cable run. This is the NC sensor system.
All the other pins on the bulkhead connector are jumpered to each other within that connector and a single connection from the each jumpered group is connected to an alarm cable and run to the alarm panel. This is a NO sensor system.
Inside the cable connectors near the middle of the cable run (goes through the tractor) only the two previously connected wires are connected, one inside each connector shell. All the other wires are tied into a strain relief knot in their respective connector shells and are not connected to connector pins.
The NO and NC sensor cables are attached to the alarm panel. Now the tractor alarm cable must be plugged into both bulkhead connectors and the cable connectors near the middle of the alarm cable must be plugged into each other to be able to set the alarm. If not plugged in it is like leaving a door or window open so far as the alarm is concerned.
For anyone not having a conveniently located alarm panel but who would like some protection like a loud siren and or strobe light, I can describe how to wire up the above security cable to do that without an alarm panel. It is simple to do and is pretty cheap depending on how much you spend on lights and sirens battery and charger. I recommend battery operation so loss of power does not stop the alarm action.
Oh, to save $ yo can skip the bulkhead connectors and mating cable connectors and drill a hole in the wall for the cable. Tie a knot in the cable and secure it to the wall with cable clamps. Yo can just wire it the same as the instructions for the "FANCY" version and it will work fine several $ cheaper.
Pat
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Z-Michigan
Veteran Member
Kendall69 said:
Sounds like you live in a People's Republic. You know there are something like 40 states that now have shall-issue CCWs? Anyway, any option to move to a free state?
patrick_g
Elite Member
Z-Michigan said:
Let me decode this for folks who may live in ignorance (due to geography not intelligence, mostly)
SHALL ISSUE means the state gov shall issue unless there is a reason not to do so such as felony, domestic violence, mental illness. In KALIFORNIA there are laws on the books to allow you to get a concealed carry weapon but it is dammed unlikely you can do so. Kalifornia is NOT a "shall issue" state. There you have to prove need and aren't likely to do so in todays political climate there. In shall issue state they SHALL ISSUE unless the state shows you to be disqualified for one of the limited number of reasons.
Many shall issue states offer reciprocity to states that offer it back. This means that you are legal to carry a concealed weapon in any state that recognizes your state's permit and vice versa. Nice to drive across great distances through enlightened FREE states and be able to protect yourself or others should it be required. You feel vulnerable when you have to be in one of the retarded states.
Pat
sandman2234
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
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- 6,082
- Location
- Jacksonville, Florida
- Tractor
- JD2555 and a few Allis Chalmers and now one Kubota
The bad part of my job is the Fed's have decided that truck drivers don't need a gun to protect themselves. Guess they figure a tire tool is enough. Since I spend most of my time in a truck, working for a company based in N.J., who also feels that way, I don't have much of a chance, dispite the laws that are in my favor in my home state.
Good neighbors are the best thing to have, especially if they are retired, and shoot targets for a pasttime.
Anyone stealing my JD is nothing short of a fool! My dogs will activate the alarm (neighbor) and the thief will never see the bullet coming.
David from jax
Good neighbors are the best thing to have, especially if they are retired, and shoot targets for a pasttime.
Anyone stealing my JD is nothing short of a fool! My dogs will activate the alarm (neighbor) and the thief will never see the bullet coming.
David from jax
patrick_g
Elite Member
sandman, Are you saying that if you have a concealed carry permit that there is a federal law that prohibits you from having a weapon with you in the truck? I can see how you might have to "put it away" to legally drive through some states but what about the FREE states?
I would understand a federal stance that would include not allowing you a weapon just because you drive a truck and want one but what about if you are otherwise legal to carry and do in your POV. What federal law prevents your carrying it in your truck?
Patrick
I would understand a federal stance that would include not allowing you a weapon just because you drive a truck and want one but what about if you are otherwise legal to carry and do in your POV. What federal law prevents your carrying it in your truck?
Patrick
Glowplug said:But, after reading this thread, I don't know what to do when we go on vacation. I can see me worried the whole vacation about my tractor so that I can't enjoy myself. I COULD put in a networked camera with an IP address and then at least I could check on my baby over the internet. But I don't know what I would do if I logged on and saw the tractor gone!!!!!!
There's your problem!........you'd never think of putting a webcam up to watch your wife while you're gone......You're obviously taking the wrong one with you on vacation. Take the tractor....leave the wife!