Buying Advice Input on shopping for older mid-size tractor

[motownbrowne]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that looks like an early 4 cylinder 2000. These were pretty much the same as the hundred series Fords. Also, those tires look pretty worn out. You're looking at close to $1000 for two new rear tires. Personally, I'd love to have an old 2000 or 3000, but it'd have to be a three cylinder with power steering, live PTO and hydraulics, at least 8 forward gears, and a differential lock.

I'd rather have a $5000 tractor with these features than a $2500 tractor without them.

 

[KennyG]

Personally, I'd shy away from the D15-d17. Could be wrong, but just dont see them as much. Parts, new or used, are likely more $$$ and harder to come by than the fords or masseys.

I wouldn't worry about the AC. They were very popular, especially the D-17. It's probably a local issue based on the dealers and type of farming. Where I grew up. AC, IH and JD dominated. The few Fords around were considered curiosities and usually used as utility tractors more than real field work. Massey tractors were rare also although the combines were well thought of.

 

[NC419N]

I have owned one one of those 4 cylinder 2000's and they are an improvement over the 8N But I would look to the "newer" 2000-3000 even better a 4000 if you want a Ford series and even some of those may need some repairs. The 135 Massey's are great little tractors as well. I have stayed away from the Green one's mainly because of parts pricing and the dealer network in my area. I would for sure be parking the 8N and or restore it for parade use. Just my .02

 

[ovrszd]

ovrszd, my budget would be not spending more than a couple hundred dollars a year in repairs. I look at the initial cost as an investment and the price should just be fair to good for the model. I prefer paying for good condition - I'm not looking for a restore project.

Then buy new and the manufacturer, thru the warranty period, will keep you under a couple hundred dollars a year in repairs. Any other choice and that won't happen.

 

[ovrszd]

You still haven't stated a budget?? I'm not asking to get in your business. Just asking to clarify how much money you are willing to spend for a tractor. None of the members following this thread can help you until you clarify that. :confused3:

 

[GManBart]

Some machines in your general area that fit what you've described:

Ford tractor model 3000
Ford 2000 series Tractor 1969
~1971 Ford 3000 Tractor - 47hp
3000 Ford Tractor

If you're willing to consider a modern tractor with a non-electronics diesel engine, something like this is likely to be less trouble because it's 20 years newer, still easy to work on if necessary, plenty of sources for parts, comes with some implements, and still a reasonable price. A bonus is that it's safer because it has a ROPS (Rollover Protection Structure).

1996 MASSEY FERGUSON 231

 

[aschwerin]

I need to get notifications turned on.

motownbrowne, I see your point (except I think 6 spd would be enough for me, and I'm not sure I need power steering without a bucket). I do need to get what I need when I spend my money.

NC419N, what year is good for a "newer" 2000 or 3000? I will have to check serial/model numbers to learn the year, yes?

ovrszd, I could be mistaken - and would like to know if I am - but there must be a sticker price for that "new tractor smell". A good investment shouldn't be losing value after being used a couple times. Anecdotally, I found a 2014 Kubota B2650 on craigslist just now, $16,900 with 40 hours on the tractor. Looking on the Kubota website, this tractor new is going to cost about $22,000. That fella paid $2,500/yr or $127.50/hr to use his tractor. If he sells it at the price he wants. So, a napkin calculation tells me a tractor is worth about $1,500/yr to me. If it costs me more than that, I shouldn't buy one. I figure I will use it about 40 hours a year. However, there is no reason for me to spend my maximum cost. Why would I want to spend $18,000 when a $4,000 machine will do all my work for me? And how long can that $18,000 machine maintain its value when a $4,000 machine can do its work? It has to depreciate down to $4,000 eventually, whereas the $4,000 machine could still be worth $4,000 10 years later. Assuming we are comparing apples to apples. Besides the depreciation, its going to come to repairs (there are no 20 year warranties): number of parts in the machine, reliability of the parts, cost of parts, and ability to fix the machine myself (I'm four times cheaper than a mechanic). The 8N wasn't costing me more than a hundred $ in repairs each year. Parts are just cheap.

 

[aschwerin]

GManBart, I like that first 3000 for $4,000.
I had emailed the fella about that 2000 to see about the clutch setup and he hasn't responded yet.
I'm sure that other 3000 is good too, but is it just me who is turned off by an old tractor coated in new paint?
The MF 231 is interesting. I like that I can still work on it. It doesn't have the reputation the others have - or not that I know of? I can do some searches...

 

[jenkinsph]

aschwerin,
Not sure what you mean by "It doesn't have the reputation the others have" ?
Nothing wrong with a Massey Ferguson and while it is a 1996 if in good condition it is definitely worth a look.

 

[aschwerin]

"The 231 is the late 1980s - early 1990s version of the 135, itself one of the most highly-regarded small utility tractors of all time. By todays standards the 231 is a rugged and economical if rather basic work horse. The versions with the three cylinder Perkins AD152 diesel are the most desireable and most common. This engine is very highly regarded and quite economical to operate. Issues to consider vis a vis more modern machines are dry drum brakes and fully unsynchronized transmission.

SDT"