Insulation for shop ceiling

   / Insulation for shop ceiling
  • Thread Starter
#31  
I like the trim idea - sure would make it easier to install and hide any little errors
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling #32  
I like the trim idea - sure would make it easier to install and hide any little errors

It was just simple flashing. Yes, definitely saved me from a ton of detail cutting which never would have been perfect anyway.
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling #34  
Just saw that Menards has a 3 day sale on liner panel. $1.43 per linear foot (36 inch wide coverage). Works out to about 45 cents per square foot. Hard to beat that.
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling
  • Thread Starter
#35  
That is good! Man I wish we had one around here, stye seem to have some good sales!!
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling #36  
Mine looks like that so no need to take a picture. My finished space is 30'x40'...10' ht. Like you my builder installed a poly vapor barrier first. He refused to use liner panel and went with gloss white building steel but the building itself uses trusses 8'OC so the added thickness/stiffness worked better. He used 24' and 16' long panels so only 2 pieces to cover the 40' run. I installed two banks of T8 fixtures "ganged" together (3 8' double bulb for a total of 12 bulbs per bank) centered on the ceiling (8' gap on either end) using external conduit. I switched the banks separately. The gloss white provides ample light even for my tired eyes. On top we formed a "bank" on the perimeter using thick fiberglass batts then filled the middle with blown in material (the batts serving as a block from the blown-in material getting into the soffits). We brought it to R50 on the ceiling (still not enough it seems but we're in Wisconsin and it's never enough at times). Be back with some hints for anybody doing steel.
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling #37  
Using steel...nifty trick I learned from the builder. Stack several sheets of your material on a suitable support keeping the ends even, measure your screw locations (spaced according to your rafter/truss distance and next to each major "rib" on the steel...3 as I recall on a 3' panel) then use a pointed punch and hammer to form a dent. Hit properly you'll see the dents through several sheets. When the dents start to get faint, add new sheets under the dented ones and hit them again. He was in the business for years and apparently "drilling" was not only time consuming it led to premature rusting (for him meant "warranty" repairs) because of the heat from the drill bits. The added benefit is you measure once and can be assured of the holes being in a straight line (assumes your building is square and your trusses/rafters are set properly) with no chalk/pencil lines. Now for the part I forget...I had the builder install 2x4's along my 40' run, 10' from the side walls to serve as "nailers" for the lighting. As I recall they were installed on the top of the bottom cord and we used long screws on the lights to get into them. The only other thing I can think of is you will need small pieces of wood to mount any fixtures...the "ribs" on steel stand about 3/4" high from the panel. No big deal...just something to think about.
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling
  • Thread Starter
#38  
Thanks Teejk - good info!
 
   / Insulation for shop ceiling
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Thanks!!
 

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