Insulation for shop ceiling

[tman1020]

For those of you that have steel sheeting on ceiling how much over lap if any did u use?

 

[gsganzer]

If you're using corrugated, I've always overlapped 2 ribs.

 

[tman1020]

I'm talking about overlap of the ends not on the ribs. I've never used it for sheeting a ceiling before and I was wondering if I should just butt the ends together as you would wood sheeting or should I use some overlap?

 

[Code54]

Good questions!

 

[teejk]

Mine is overlapped a few inches. Helps with maintaining straight lines and you save on screws!

 

[gsganzer]

I'm talking about overlap of the ends not on the ribs. I've never used it for sheeting a ceiling before and I was wondering if I should just butt the ends together as you would wood sheeting or should I use some overlap?

I overlapped 6" on the ends.

 

[ovrszd]

How big is the building? I know you are looking for an economical solution, but a real ceiling under your trusses with blown in insulation is probably the best choice. A liner panel metal ceiling is less than $1 per square foot and then the insulation will be less than that.

Yep, Kenny nailed it. With this design you can blow in as much insulation as your budget can stand. Even starting with a small amount and then when more money is available add more.

Plus it provides a durable ceiling that you'll never have to repair. It'll outlast you and a couple more owners.

 

[ovrszd]

30 x 40 seems huge for a workshop. Do you really use it all for workshop?

Might need a clarification of "work shop". I call mine a shop. But I also park in it. 42x50 and needs to be bigger.

 

[ovrszd]

The cost is one of those one shot, swallow hard and do it kind of things. From my perspective, the time you save by not having to finish and paint the ceiling is worth a lot. And you probably won't have to paint it for the life of the building. The upside down install isn't really an issue. A drywall lift will handle the metal and weight is minimal, even with 16 foot pieces. I think the metal will go up in a fraction of time of other options.

Kenny nailed it again!!! I bought my ceiling metal from and Amish shop near here. They call it liner panel. Has cheaper grade paint with no fading guarantee. Pretty hard to get fading inside a shop. As for hanging it, did mine myself with a $150 drywall lift. Cheapest hired hand I've ever had.

My building is 42x50 and I think my metal was around $800. I'm sure it was less than $1000. I'll never touch my ceiling again. And as mentioned looks great.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm talking about overlap of the ends not on the ribs. I've never used it for sheeting a ceiling before and I was wondering if I should just butt the ends together as you would wood sheeting or should I use some overlap?

I used panels like metal buildings have on the outsides. Not corrugated tin like old barns used.

So you only overlap the first rib. I overlapped my ends 3-4". That way I only had to have one row of screws at the end of each panel. If you butt the ends you would have two rows.

My building is all metal so I used self drilling screws. With a wood building I'd use the same thing. And with wood it will be extremely easy to fasten. I had to drill thru 1/8" metal purlins.

Maybe Eddie could clarify, but I think they even have pointed screws that will penetrate liner panel and then screw itself into the wood very easily. I would not nail.