Insulation for shop ceiling

[KennyG]

I did all mine by myself also, with a drywall lift and bakers scaffold (2 sets). I would recommend getting help. There is nothing about it that is too heavy or hard, it's just that all that climbing up and down is a real killer.

 

[Barnbuilder]

We used metal roofing for a ceiling in one building. I think the sheets were 24' long. Looks nice and already painted. Two people and scaffolding. Three would have been even easier.

 

[teejk]

I did all mine by myself also, with a drywall lift and bakers scaffold (2 sets). I would recommend getting help. There is nothing about it that is too heavy or hard, it's just that all that climbing up and down is a real killer.

As I get older that overhead work becomes harder and harder. Was always looking at drywall lifts (not that expensive in the whole vast scheme of things) from Northern Tool or even Harbor Freight but always did stuff the hard way because I could never figure out an alternative use for one. My finished shop is 40' long and used 24' and 16' long sheets (only one seam). Granted the panels aren't that heavy but is one lift enough? As for the bakers scaffolding...that be the yellow "painter's scaffolding" I think? I have one set and wish I had about 5 more! There you have several alternative uses when you're finished with the task at hand (great movable storage shelves, great for drying racks when finishing trim work, etc.).

 

[teejk]

We used metal roofing for a ceiling in one building. I think the sheets were 24' long. Looks nice and already painted. Two people and scaffolding. Three would have been even easier.

I think the beauty of it is how it reflects lighting. Kind of dark at the ceiling level but I never work up their anyway. I have the gloss white walls also and lighting is not a problem.

 

[Barnbuilder]

Yes it brightens things! You can always strip the bottom of the truses with 1x4s so you run the metal in the shorter direction.
We predrilled the metal on 4' centers to look nicer and easier to start screws. Sealtite has a screw that looks like a button head. Uses a torx bit. It doesn't stay on the driver as well as a hex but looks nicer as it sits tighter to the metal.

 

[teejk]

Yes it brightens things! You can always strip the bottom of the truses with 1x4s so you run the metal in the shorter direction.
We predrilled the metal on 4' centers to look nicer and easier to start screws. Sealtite has a screw that looks like a button head. Uses a torx bit. It doesn't stay on the driver as well as a hex but looks nicer as it sits tighter to the metal.

10' ceilings using white pole barn screws on white panels...I guess I don't really notice! Hate to repeat but my builder (RIP) was in the business for years and "drilling" was a big problem that resulted in warranty repairs (heat from the bit I guess but perhaps the finishing process has improved since then). In any event a tiny starter hole would seem to be ok but with the new drill/impact cordless drivers not so sure the "dent" method is all that bad.

 

[Barnbuilder]

If you have two hands to use no its not. But when trying to hold with one and driving with another yes. Drilling takes some finess. If the panels aren't flat and tight the bit will want to curve as it goes through the panels.

 

[teejk]

I guess that's the beauty of the rubber washer on the pole barn screw. It allows a little compensation for the "drill challenged" (hand grenades and horse shoes..."close enough").

 

[KennyG]

As I get older that overhead work becomes harder and harder. Was always looking at drywall lifts (not that expensive in the whole vast scheme of things) from Northern Tool or even Harbor Freight but always did stuff the hard way because I could never figure out an alternative use for one. My finished shop is 40' long and used 24' and 16' long sheets (only one seam). Granted the panels aren't that heavy but is one lift enough? As for the bakers scaffolding...that be the yellow "painter's scaffolding" I think? I have one set and wish I had about 5 more! There you have several alternative uses when you're finished with the task at hand (great movable storage shelves, great for drying racks when finishing trim work, etc.).

I bought a drywall lift on ebay with extended capacity (up to 15 feet ceilings) for about $150. One of these days I will probably put it on Craigslist for $100. It is set up to lift up to 16 foot long pieces. For ease of handling I used 12 foot long sheets. However, I think with a little care it would handle 24 foot steel, the sections just wouldn't fit the end stops. Yes, the yellow painters scaffold that go up to about 6 feet. I like having two sets because I'm not the most graceful person around and I'm over 65, so I put the two sets either side by side or end to end and C-clamp them together. Seems to make them about 2 or 3 times as rigid.

 

[teejk]

I bought a drywall lift on ebay with extended capacity (up to 15 feet ceilings) for about $150. One of these days I will probably put it on Craigslist for $100. It is set up to lift up to 16 foot long pieces. For ease of handling I used 12 foot long sheets. However, I think with a little care it would handle 24 foot steel, the sections just wouldn't fit the end stops. Yes, the yellow painters scaffold that go up to about 6 feet. I like having two sets because I'm not the most graceful person around and I'm over 65, so I put the two sets either side by side or end to end and C-clamp them together. Seems to make them about 2 or 3 times as rigid.

Those yellow painter scaffolds are the best thing ever invented. We built a new house a few years ago and I did the trim work. Great drying racks! I went to a tool auction a few years back and one went for $75 before I could bid on it (I'm sure it was a pre-arranged deal with the auctioneer where the auction lasted for about 10 seconds before the "sold" gavel came down). That ladder frame with 2x6's serves as great movable shelving (get's back to the OP's problem about having to clear the space).