Insulation for shop ceiling

[Code54]

We built the shop a few years ago and the roof and walls have the 1" insulation and I would like to start adding to the "R" value of the building. I was thinking it would be best to reduce the ceiling height so save the heat for the area that is needed. The bottom of the rafter is 10' and there are lights hanging down about a foot from them. I was thinking I seen some kid of rolled plastic insulation that you run between the rafters (4' apart). I can run some cross braces and it would be easy to put up by myself and I could add more insulation above it. What is the name of this stuff to look it up to get pricing. Also where is a good place to get this type of product? The building has a double wall (outside wall is the metal, 1" insulation then ｽ 4x8 particle board. Then a 4" gap and another particle board wall) so I figure I can easily blow insulation in there later on after the roof is done.
Does this sound like it would work? I need to keep the cost down and be able to easily do it by myself. I have a 150K propane hanging heater (with vent) in there and it keeps it warm but runs more than I figure it needs to. We mostly don't get below 0 and if we do it is only for a short time. Most 20-30's in the winter.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[Kenneth in Texas]

Dont have your answer but I sure was shocked when I put insulation in my metal building, that stuff has really jumped in price since we built out home 4 years ago.

 

[Code54]

Hate to hear that! Then again nothing I do is ever cheap, well at least that is what my wife tells me....

 

[KennyG]

How big is the building? I know you are looking for an economical solution, but a real ceiling under your trusses with blown in insulation is probably the best choice. A liner panel metal ceiling is less than $1 per square foot and then the insulation will be less than that.

 

[GPintheMitten]

It would probably be cheaper to put up 2x4s across your rafters 2' o.c. then put up plastic sheets vapor barrier then drywall, blowing insulation on top. Worth pricing it out at least.

 

[TomSeller]

Hate to hear that! Then again nothing I do is ever cheap, well at least that is what my wife tells me....

I am cheap but nothing my wife does is cheap.

 

[Code54]

The bldg is 30'x40' and the only bad thing is there are about 30 lights that would need moved for pretty much anything I put in. I am hoping to use something fairly giving so if bumped and would not break but drywall maybe an option. Just a bugger to put up on my own, may need to find a lift. At this point I am open to any ideas

 

[Looking4new]

It would probably be cheaper still to put up 2x4s across your rafters 2' o.c., then put up plastic sheets vapor barrier then 1/4" plywood and blow the insulation on top of that. the plywood is a little more forgiving that drywall/sheetrock.

 

[GPintheMitten]

If you do drywall, definitely get the lift
It's so worth it. I've done it both ways. They aren't that expensive to rent.

 

[Code54]

¼ is a good idea. Now do I need the vapor barrier since the roof is insulated already? Running 2x4's would be the way to go, that is a good idea and would make it fairly easy to hang the ceiling.

 

[Code54]

The lift will work with plywood I would presume? Never used one but don't want to try and do the ceiling without it - renting that would be fine and Im sure your right, well worth the rent.

 

[George2615]

The bldg is 30'x40' and the only bad thing is there are about 30 lights that would need moved for pretty much anything I put in. I am hoping to use something fairly giving so if bumped and would not break but drywall maybe an option. Just a bugger to put up on my own, may need to find a lift. At this point I am open to any ideas

You can rent a sheet rock lift at an equipment rental place. I rented one to do my pole barn addition ceiling. Rent on a Friday afternoon and return on Monday, only get charged for one day. I did an 18 x 32 with particle board by myself in about 6 hours.

 

[Code54]

Good to know -- THANKS

 

[KennyG]

With drywall or plywood you need to add the 2x4s. Metal liner panels can go with 4 foot spacing. I really like the metal option because it's easy to handle, no painting, etc. Look at the total cost and what you will end up with. Whatever you do, I would put a vapor barrier in and vent the attic. Not sure what your roof insulation is, of course.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Yes metal has some advantages.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've gone back and forth on this with what to do with my shop. I like the look of metal, and love that it can easily span the 4 foot span of my trusses, but hate the cost of it, and dealing with installing it upside down.

My solution will be to add purlins every two feet to the bottoms of my trusses and then install OSB. I can do this easily with my sheetrock lift. I wont tape or seal the edges, just but it up tight to each other.

Then I will blow in 2 feet of Attic Cat insulation. I love this stuff!!!! Easy to use and very effective. You also can't beat what it costs compared to everything out there to get R60.

 

[KennyG]

I like the look of metal, and love that it can easily span the 4 foot span of my trusses, but hate the cost of it, and dealing with installing it upside down.

The cost is one of those one shot, swallow hard and do it kind of things. From my perspective, the time you save by not having to finish and paint the ceiling is worth a lot. And you probably won't have to paint it for the life of the building. The upside down install isn't really an issue. A drywall lift will handle the metal and weight is minimal, even with 16 foot pieces. I think the metal will go up in a fraction of time of other options.

 

[EddieWalker]

The cost is one of those one shot, swallow hard and do it kind of things. From my perspective, the time you save by not having to finish and paint the ceiling is worth a lot. And you probably won't have to paint it for the life of the building. The upside down install isn't really an issue. A drywall lift will handle the metal and weight is minimal, even with 16 foot pieces. I think the metal will go up in a fraction of time of other options.

You are probably right. The look would be amazing instead of boring going with metal. I go back and forth, go cheap or spend the extra bucks and have a bit of wow factor.

 

[Code54]

What do you consider the "normal" going rate for the metal? I have to look into and it find someone locally that even sells it.
Thanks

 

[GPintheMitten]

You should be able to find it at your local lumber yard, maybe home Depot too. Here's a site that I found that will give you a quote.

Tuff-Rib | Classic Rib | Metal Roofing Panel | Best Buy Metals