Interested in some feedback on fence plans

[jbeall]

Hi All,

We've got a small hobby farm and the next step for us is to repair the fencing so we can put some livestock on our pastures. Right now we've only got poultry.

We've got quite a bit of three board fencing up, but it needs repairs. I'd say it's about 80% good fencing.

One of the things I can't make up my mind about is whether we should keep the three-board fence, or replace it with welded/woven wire fence. The reason being that we'd like to include small livestock (sheep, goats) and juvenile animals (e.g., calves) that would be able to get through the a three board fence.

But replacing all that fence would cost a fortune. We've got about 1700 feet of perimeter fence, and about the same amount in interior fence dividing the pasture into sections. That's 3400 feet of fencing, and going by my 75% good figure, that's 2550 feet of good fence that we'd be replacing.

So obviously the cost of replacing all that with welded or woven wire fencing is way more than just replacing the ~850 feet of three-board fencing that needs replacement, and keeping the 2550 feet of good fencing.

So, I've been mulling this over and thinking that maybe the right solution is to use a lightweight mesh to cover any fence if and when we get some animals on pasture that we're concerned will get through the fence. The fence's strength would come from the 3 board fence and posts, and the wire mesh would just act as a deterrent to keep small animals from climbing between the boards.

Examples of such a mesh would be a light gauge welded or woven wire, maybe like this, or even 2" chickenwire. The chickenwire is only 20 gauge, but it seems like it would be enough to discourage a calf or small cattle breed from trying to push his way between the boards... I think?

You can see pictures of our property in the first post here:
http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=210268

And quite a few more here (taken before we purchased the property):

We've got 6 acres of pasture. One of the perimeter fences is already welded wire, and belongs to a neighboring cattle farm. We plan to leave that fence as-is. The 1700' and 3400' fence lengths are excluding that fence.

-Josh

 

[whistlepig]

I think you would be better off using electric fence.

 

[RickB]

I think you would be better off using electric fence.

Electric fence sucks for baby calves and other young livestock that don't know about it. They crash through it before they get shocked, then it is nearly impossible to get them back through it.

Rolled woven wire fencing is great for livestock, 4 strand barb wire is a good second choice. 3 board will be a nightmare for small & young livestock. 3 board in poor shape will be a nightmare, period. The welded wire (cattle panels) I am thinking of would be overkill & prohibitively expensive.

Remember that good fences make good neighbors. Spend the coin to build a secure fence now, enjoy it for years.

 

[rasimmo]

I think you would be better off to use "field fence" instead of welded wire. On the link for the welded wire you posted I did not see what length roll that was (I may have overlooked it). The field fence on that website is 330' and the welded wire is probably 100' (just a guess according to prices near me). I think that would work out a little cheaper and I have had better luck with that type of fence for livestock anyway. I like the way the three rail looks so I would try to just stretch the wire on the portions I needed and fasten it to the existing posts. That is assuming you will repair the portions of damaged fence with the three rail. Just my 2 cents.

Edit: Electric fence is not a good idea for young animals, as RickB said. I would put a strand across the top to try to stop the larger animals from leaning over the top though.

 

[jbeall]

What's the difference between field fence and woven wire fence?

 

[whistlepig]

What's the difference between field fence and woven wire fence?

Field fence is woven wire fence. Welded wire, at least in my experience, is not considered field fence. A couple of my concerns about using welded wire or chicken wire. This is a gosh awful mess to contend with when grass or weeds gets grown in it. It won't turn livestock. It would be a headache as far as my experience goes with it. It would be better to bite the bullet and put up good woven wire fence. And yes, stretching woven wire can be very expensive. I wouldn't even consider the welded wire or chicken fence except for turning dogs or chickens.

 

[RobertBrown]

I think goats require special fence as they can climb. They may chew up a board fence sort of like a horse will. You may have to replace some of your fence anyway.

 

[rasimmo]

Red Brand makes a "no climb" woven wire. Instead of being squares, it looks like a bunch of triangles. I have no experience with, just seen it a few times.

 

[Mudfarmer]

What's the difference between field fence and woven wire fence?

Field fence is the cheapest "mesh" fence you can get. Also called hog wire. Comes, if I recall, in 38 inch height and is traditionally strung with a single strand of barbed wire a few inches above to "keep the cows off it." It will meet your needs for calves, sheep, and goats, although the last will climb it if it sags and there is something particualrly appetizing on the other side. Field fence is not rigid, and will work on uneven ground.

Welded mesh wire, light and heavy weight, usually comes in a 2X4 inch mesh 4 to six feet high. It is rigid and doesn't follow the ground contour much. So if you try to use it anywhere but level you get lots of 'wows" back and forth on the top. But if the ground is level it will keep in anything but Buffaloe and maybe Elk.

Woven wire is like welded mesh only more expensive. Rather than 4x2 welded mesh it is 4X2 woven mesh with wires binding each crossing with a little give. It's pretty expensive [beyond my means, or at least willingness to pay], but a little bit more forgiving on uneven ground than welded mesh, but nor nearly as much as field fence.

Woven and welded mesh come in [expensive] 100 foot rolls. Field fence, like barb wire comes in one rod (330 foot) rolls, takes a man and willing wife to handle.

I used some six foot welded wired in the past to keep llamas with their babies in, otherwise I used field fence. The latter is graduated with smaller holes at the bottom to keep the babies in and the dogs out. I would recommend field fence with barb wire at the top if you have full grown cows. In your case you coulod readily line your wooden fences with field fence. It wouldn't look half bad, or at worst would only look half bad; try it on one field and see what it looks like. It would definitely meet your needs.

Mf

 

[whistlepig]

I re-fenced our place four years ago with Red Brand No-Climb horse fence. This is woven wire with 2"x4" mesh. This is about the most expensive woven wire I think that is made. No climb is a good investment for horses but for cattle or goats the standard 4"x 4" woven wire mesh would be a lot cheaper and still do the job.

 

[rasimmo]

Mudfarmer,

I hate to nit pick, but I believe a rod is 16.5 feet. Also all the barbed wire I buy comes in 1330 feet rolls not 330 feet like field fence. Please don't think I am trying to start an arguement. That was not my intention at all.

 

[Smallplot]

You have gotten some very good information that I agree with. The regular woven wire livestock fence, such as red brand, would be your best choice. As long as your posts are good on the 3 board fence You could just stretch the woven wire fence on the inside.(you would have to brace the end post)

There are different heights available and if you may end up with cattle, get the 47 inch fence from the beginning. And with livestock I personally would only use two or three steel posts between wooden posts. Less chance of livestock trampling fence

If you are going to build the fence yourself, make sure and get a fence stretcher. Very important that fence is stretched and end posts are properly braced. These two points will made the difference between a good looking and functional fence and an eyesore that livestock will just walk over/under/through.

 

[jbeall]

And with livestock I personally would only use two or three steel posts between wooden posts. Less chance of livestock trampling fence

With two or three fence steel posts between wooden posts (which are currently 6' apart), I'd wind up with 16" to 24" between posts. That's not overkill? I can't say I've ever seen a fence with spacing that tight.

 

[roygage]

Here is link to Premier Fencing, an well thought of company around here. They are noted for knowing what they speak off. Try most of the products out on there own place. Fencing - Premier1Supplies

 

[jbeall]

I'm thinking that the best would be a field fence (woven wire) with 2"x4" openings. That's small enough that it would discourage our larger chickens from going through it, but strong enough to keep cattle in as well.

 

[blueriver]

Field fence, given good set corners ... (H-Brace with the wrap wire running the right direction) ... can be strecthed and put up against an already exsisting fence. No need to buy line post that way.

On any fence line don't go to far apart with the line post ...

 

[jbeall]

We don't have braces anywhere, so we'd have to set them up.

I'd say most of the posts are only 3"-4" diameter, although some are bigger, and then we do have a stretch of fence that had all the posts replaced with 6"-7" half-rounds 5 years ago.

Assuming I brace the corners and end points, and replace any bad posts, are the existing 3"-4" diameter full-rounds and 6-"7 diameter half-rounds good enough as posts for a field fence?

Another thing I'll throw out there for consideration: 32" field fence, with straight electrified strands above and below. This is what Premier 1 suggests.

This seems like it might work the best as:

1) Chickens, varmints, and other small animals will be discouraged from going under the fence by the electric shock. It would be great to keep those foxes away from our chickens.
2) Goats would be discourage from climbing by the electrified wires on top. So long as they've got one hoof on the ground when the hit the top wires, they should get zapped.
3) Full size cattle would stay away from the fence once they got zapped a few times
4) Calves and small animals shouldn't be able to get tangled in it since the middle section of woven fence will physically arrest their progress, and is not electrified.

This is all my speculation. Please tell me if I am right or wrong on these things... ?

 

[rasimmo]

Those posts will be fine as long as you brace the corners. The suggestion from Premier 1 sounds good. You will just have to keep the fence rows sprayed good to keep grass off that bottom hot wire. I spray mine about once a month from spring to fall and it's fine. That may be a little overkill, but I hate anything growing in my fences.

 

[jbeall]

Is there any reason why I should take the boards off before putting up the field fence and electric wire?

 

[blueriver]

The post will be good just brace those corners. No need for the electric top and bottom. If anything run a tight strand of barb wire top and bottom ... I'd leave the fence boards unless your just wanting to add labor.