grsthegreat
Super Star Member
it would have been way better if it landed on his truck hehe
Interesting tree felling method
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bindian
Super Member
Down here, we cut the hinge to spin the pine tree where we want it to land. I've seen pines pivot 90 degrees and "dance" down. That might work well on palm trees, but I would not want to do it to a 22 inch pine.
hugs, Brandi
hugs, Brandi
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Larro Darro
Elite Member
I wouldn't want to try the plunge cut, even on a palm. You cut a few oaks like that, and the tip of your bar will be wore out.
I do have about fifty palms growing in an old plastic swimming pool. I cut one of the big tags of seed off into the canoe one day on the river. I had the pool with some dirt in, so I tossed the seeds in and covered them up. Most all of them came up. They are just over ten years old and almost waist high. If I live long enough, I might see them get head high.
I do have about fifty palms growing in an old plastic swimming pool. I cut one of the big tags of seed off into the canoe one day on the river. I had the pool with some dirt in, so I tossed the seeds in and covered them up. Most all of them came up. They are just over ten years old and almost waist high. If I live long enough, I might see them get head high.
LD1
Epic Contributor
Interesting.
Not something I am likely to use, but interesting no doubt.
Only time I plunge cut is with a heavy leaner. Plunge in just behind the hinge (after the notch cut) and basically make the back cut from the hinge outward instead of outside to inside. Keeps the tree from barber-chairing
Not something I am likely to use, but interesting no doubt.
Only time I plunge cut is with a heavy leaner. Plunge in just behind the hinge (after the notch cut) and basically make the back cut from the hinge outward instead of outside to inside. Keeps the tree from barber-chairing
kco
Veteran Member
Another situation where I use a plunge cut is where trees are too close to get the bar in to make the back cut such as birch clumps. They can have large trees that seem to share the same root system.
I share the safety concern about starting the cut but it is not that scary if done right. One needs to have the saw at full speed and start at an angle(to the 90 degree slot) letting the lower bar start a small pocket to prevent the top of the saw kicking across the surface when you deepen the slot. Keep the saw at full speed and with moderate push-pressure rotate the bar to 90 degrees. Continue with moderate push pressure and full speed so the chips don't get clogged up.
I have only plunge cut birch, poplar, pine and fir. They are likely much easier to cut than oaks, etc.
I share the safety concern about starting the cut but it is not that scary if done right. One needs to have the saw at full speed and start at an angle(to the 90 degree slot) letting the lower bar start a small pocket to prevent the top of the saw kicking across the surface when you deepen the slot. Keep the saw at full speed and with moderate push-pressure rotate the bar to 90 degrees. Continue with moderate push pressure and full speed so the chips don't get clogged up.
I have only plunge cut birch, poplar, pine and fir. They are likely much easier to cut than oaks, etc.
straight from the author of the video
"Contrary to all the Youtube experts and other morons who proliferate sites like this .... this works well with all trees, I even use it on large gum trees, frequently. Did you know that Australian eucs are the weight of USA oaks but 3 times stronger, go check the timber beam stats, eucs are 3X stronger than oaks. "
joshuabardwell
Elite Member
I think he should get a real single-jack for hammering in his wedge. That carpenter's hammer just looks silly.
