not trying to be synical or anything but nothing i have seen is enough to hold all the wood you may need for the winter and to start storing for the next winter so your wood can be fully seasoned. and the 16x8 wood shed is a total mess. none of these interest me at all . sorry folks, not trying to be mean. just looking at it with common sense.
Gosh your opinion means the world to us all here. That really cuts deep:laughing:
I don't care for a wood shed. How can the wood dry stacked up inside?
With one side open and wide spaced Pt decking for a floor mine has natural convection going on . wood dries out quickly like this.
If you start with a fresh cut tree, it will not be correctly seasoned in one month using air drying. Most people try to air dry heavy (high lignin content) woods like oaks for two summers before burning. Within reason, there is no such thing as firewood that is too dry.
The best way to know the moisture content of the wood is to use a meter to test it. Eventually, for a given species and size of the split wood, you will get a feel for it's dry weight, look at the ends for checking, color and such.
If you get the wood dried to a low moisture level, something close to kiln dried lumber, it will stay good for years if stored in a dry shed. Just like a length of 2x4 stays good for years in a dry garage.
I agree. I had some wood in the back corner of my shed that is over 2 years old and it is great to burn, I use it to start fires
We have a flare to put out chimney fires, got it just in case. We burn at 400 and start them at 500-600 so I don't see a problem but it's there if we need it.Eddie,
What do you do about creosote? Everything I have read says you are in prime temp range for creosote forming in your chimney at those temps and need to stay above 400 for a properly burning fire (probe thermometer 18" above stove). And obviously also stay below the 1200 limit of most chimeys
Seems to me you are just asking for chimney fires