Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours.

   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #121  
not trying to be synical or anything but nothing i have seen is enough to hold all the wood you may need for the winter and to start storing for the next winter so your wood can be fully seasoned. and the 16x8 wood shed is a total mess. none of these interest me at all . sorry folks, not trying to be mean. just looking at it with common sense.

Gosh your opinion means the world to us all here. That really cuts deep:laughing:
I don't care for a wood shed. How can the wood dry stacked up inside?

With one side open and wide spaced Pt decking for a floor mine has natural convection going on . wood dries out quickly like this.
If you start with a fresh cut tree, it will not be correctly seasoned in one month using air drying. Most people try to air dry heavy (high lignin content) woods like oaks for two summers before burning. Within reason, there is no such thing as firewood that is too dry.

The best way to know the moisture content of the wood is to use a meter to test it. Eventually, for a given species and size of the split wood, you will get a feel for it's dry weight, look at the ends for checking, color and such.

If you get the wood dried to a low moisture level, something close to kiln dried lumber, it will stay good for years if stored in a dry shed. Just like a length of 2x4 stays good for years in a dry garage.

I agree. I had some wood in the back corner of my shed that is over 2 years old and it is great to burn, I use it to start fires
Eddie,

What do you do about creosote? Everything I have read says you are in prime temp range for creosote forming in your chimney at those temps and need to stay above 400 for a properly burning fire (probe thermometer 18" above stove). And obviously also stay below the 1200 limit of most chimeys

Seems to me you are just asking for chimney fires
We have a flare to put out chimney fires, got it just in case. We burn at 400 and start them at 500-600 so I don't see a problem but it's there if we need it.
 
   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #122  
not trying to be synical or anything but nothing i have seen is enough to hold all the wood you may need for the winter and to start storing for the next winter so your wood can be fully seasoned. and the 16x8 wood shed is a total mess. none of these interest me at all . sorry folks, not trying to be mean. just looking at it with common sense.

Gosh your opinion means the world to us all here. That really cuts deep:laughing:
I don't care for a wood shed. How can the wood dry stacked up inside?

With one side open and wide spaced Pt decking for a floor mine has natural convection going on . wood dries out quickly like this.
If you start with a fresh cut tree, it will not be correctly seasoned in one month using air drying. Most people try to air dry heavy (high lignin content) woods like oaks for two summers before burning. Within reason, there is no such thing as firewood that is too dry.

The best way to know the moisture content of the wood is to use a meter to test it. Eventually, for a given species and size of the split wood, you will get a feel for it's dry weight, look at the ends for checking, color and such.

If you get the wood dried to a low moisture level, something close to kiln dried lumber, it will stay good for years if stored in a dry shed. Just like a length of 2x4 stays good for years in a dry garage.

I agree. I had some wood in the back corner of my shed that is over 2 years old and it is great to burn, I use it to start fires
Eddie,

What do you do about creosote? Everything I have read says you are in prime temp range for creosote forming in your chimney at those temps and need to stay above 400 for a properly burning fire (probe thermometer 18" above stove). And obviously also stay below the 1200 limit of most chimeys

Seems to me you are just asking for chimney fires
We have a flare to put out chimney fires, got it just in case. We burn at 400 and start them at 500-600 so I don't see a problem but it's there if we need it.
 
   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #123  
How do you move those well built, and also clearly heavy wood houses?

They look great!


I built a couple of movable ( when empty ) 3 cord sheds to move around out place ( we have about 60ac of woodland ) where I'm thinning or clearing at the time.

They are 12' long x 6' deep x 7-9' tall inside. 6x6 oak posts mortise/tenon jointed into 6x6 treated runners.

ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


ry%3D400


We use 3-4 cords/yr to heat the house and shop. I plan to build at least two more of these before long.
 
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   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #124  
They are built on "skids" and are towed/pushed/sled into position by truck or tractor. Notice the chain and foundation timber with a chamfer end(s).

They are beautifully built. Shame to put wood in them - really.

tnandy, do you mix your wood or have a shed for each particular type of wood... hard/soft... chunked&split/kindling?

Nice build.
 
   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #125  
Yeah, the 3520 had no issues with the load. I would have to guess they hold 1/2 a face cord tossed in like that.

For my 3520, I have added lots of rear liquid tire ballast, as well as wheel spacers to make it stable while lifting.

I haven't done any seasoning in the bins, but I don't swee why I couldn't.

What's the floor in those bins? No airflow thru the sides = not much seasoning happening
 
   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #126  
I saw the skids/sledge runners on the bottom, but wondered what specifically he used for the very heavy job of dragging them around.

We have been experimenting with firewood bags on pallets, but with our little tractor's relatively limited FEL lifting power, we cannot get awful much in one and still lift it.

We also salvaged some pallets from the cultured stone veneer that we had put on our chimney and foundation. These are waxed cardboard with a wooden frame inside, and can be stacked but only hold about 3 half barrels (they are what we have been using to bring our split wood into the living room to the woodstove).

They are built on "skids" and are towed/pushed/sled into position by truck or tractor. Notice the chain and foundation timber with a chamfer end(s).

They are beautifully built. Shame to put wood in them - really.

tnandy, do you mix your wood or have a shed for each particular type of wood... hard/soft... chunked&split/kindling?

Nice build.
 
   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #127  
I look at it this way: Some may regard the skidding,cutting,splitting, stacking, moving, storing, stacking again and finally loading the stove as a form of drudgery and look for ways of reducing the work with more effective methods of working the wood. Personally I've had too much fun using the tractor, exercising not for the sake of exercising in the great outdoors, watching beautiful sunsets as my nose runs like a faucet and getting mesmerized and hypnotized by the dance of fire light with the wood stove as the stage. That the house is warmer is simply a fringe benefit.
 
   / Interesting woodstorage Show me Yours. #128  
I think Arrow hit the issue right on the head. I work with a bunch of folks who think the work associated with burning wood for heat is crazy. They maintain it is much easier to just go to the thermostat and turn it up when more heat is needed. Of course, these are the same folks that have to "work out" to try at least an attempt for some exercise during the colder months. They also complain from October to May about cold weather and their hate for Minnesota winter.

SO Arrow is right. There are easier ways to heat your house and their are easier ways to manage the skidding, cutting, splitting, stacking, storing, stacking and stacking again. And while I always welcome new ideas on how to reduce the multiple times I handle each piece, I wouldn't trade being cold, wet and tired from a days work of wood gathering to eliminate the drudgery. I too am mesmerized with the flame in the wood stove and when its twenty below zero outside, I get to laugh at my LP gas supplier. He gets to gouge my neighbors right now for $1.79 a gallon. I buy 200 gallons a year which a good percentage is for hot water heat.

So keep the ideas coming to help me be more efficient but don't eliminate all of the work. Working outside with tractors, chainsaws and wood splitters just seems more attractive than "working out" with 200 sweaty strangers.
 

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