Internal Regulated Alternator Conversion
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kenmac
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- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
just went out and looked. Looks like that T connector that plugs into the back of the OEM alternator It appears to have 2 white wires going to it.
According to your diagram. These wires will remain the same anyway.
I should get the new alternator in by Friday. I'll just leave the OEM disconnected until the new Alternator comes in.
They, I'll attempt the conversion.
I'll send you a PM with Ph number when the new part comes in
Thank you much !!!
According to your diagram. These wires will remain the same anyway.
I should get the new alternator in by Friday. I'll just leave the OEM disconnected until the new Alternator comes in.
They, I'll attempt the conversion.
I'll send you a PM with Ph number when the new part comes in
Thank you much !!!
Note "White/Red" means white with a red stripe; "White/Black" means white with a black stripe; etc
Tip: Quite often our old Yanmar wires are sun-bleached so the original colors are no longer apparent where exposed at the connectors.
Don't be mislead ....
If you'll peel-back the tape wrapping on the harness a few inches you'll usually find the 'protected' wire insulation proudly displaying its original glorious colors, helpful to confirm things against wiring diagrams
:thumbsup:You can of course use a simple continuity tester / VOM to confirm pin-to-pin relationships between the alternator-end and the voltage regulator connector-end.
Incorrect wiring risks damage to your new alternator - disconnect the cables at your battery before starting the project, take your time, check everything thrice, then only when confident you've got it all right reconnect your battery and 'take her for a spin'.
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Sawyer Rob
Super Member
kenmac
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- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,812
- Location
- The Heart of Dixie
- Tractor
- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
Note "White/Red" means white with a red stripe; "White/Black" means white with a black stripe; etc
Tip: Quite often our old Yanmar wires are sun-bleached so the original colors are no longer apparent where exposed at the connectors.
Don't be mislead ....
If you'll peel-back the tape wrapping on the harness a few inches you'll usually find the 'protected' wire insulation proudly displaying its original glorious colors, helpful to confirm things against wiring diagrams
Yeah, I got the stripe part. The large wire going to the batt. is also white om mine. I'll peal back some tape and see if that wire is actually Blue as you have it in your diagram.
I'll wait until I get the new one in before removing any wires.
If it's too complicated, I can always just order the VR and go that route
clemsonfor
Super Member
Shouldn't be too complicated. I didn't look at the diagrams since I'm not doing concersion, but wiring diagrams always look more daunting then they are . Break down the runs your working on and do one run at the time, you will be done before you know it.
Based on a very good idea kenmac suggested while we were talking on the phone yesterday, here's how to use your abandoned VR plug to make the jumpers required for the IR Alternator conversion.
Bob's-yer-Uncle, a sanitary, secure, and easy way to accomplish the required jumpers
Just plug this into the harness where your VR was plugged-in and bolt-up the new IR Alternator.
(quick thinker, that Ken :thumbsup: )
Bob's-yer-Uncle, a sanitary, secure, and easy way to accomplish the required jumpers
Just plug this into the harness where your VR was plugged-in and bolt-up the new IR Alternator.
(quick thinker, that Ken :thumbsup: )
kenmac
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- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
After you posted this new diagram using the existing connector, I went out and got a better look at my wires.
My wires are the same. :dance1:
white with black stripe
white with red stripe
white
yellow
blue
black
for what ever reason, the numbers on the VR are different
top of my VR is
TLV 12-86E
12V 902
My wires are the same. :dance1:
white with black stripe
white with red stripe
white
yellow
blue
black
for what ever reason, the numbers on the VR are different
top of my VR is
TLV 12-86E
12V 902
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IMPORTANT UPDATE
OK, so just got of the phone with Ken (kenmac) and we learned something new and important about the IR Alternator Conversion:
Your OEM Yanmar 'charge warning light' bulb must be good for the Internal Regulated Alternator to charge.
Ken's charge light bulb was blown and the alternator would not produce a charge when started (brief slight panic on my end for obvious reasons having posted this thread). But once we figured out his bulb never came on at any key position, and he swapped in a good bulb from his oil light, all worked as it should, ~14.2 volts alternator output with his new battery that had been used for a few quick start-stops (whew! sigh of huge relief on my end, and his too).
Once the engine is started, he can pull the bulb and the IR Alternator stays at full output, but if started without the bulb it won't - so apparently that bulb in series in the circuit plays some function similar to 'exciting' the IR Alternator on start-up, after which all is good. The bulb still works like OEM - it's "ON" with key-on-engine-off, and "OFF" with key-on-engine-on and the alternator generating output (correct warning light function).
I never tested mine with that bulb blown or removed so didn't know the critical role that 'idiot light' plays in the system with the IR Alternator. So, if he/I/anyone with this IR Alternator Conversion ever note our charge light does not come on with key-on-engine-off we now know to check that bulb to ensure our battery will be charged when the engine is running.
In the end, Ken now has perhaps the 'second in the world' Yanmar with the Internal Regulated Alternator Conversion and it seems to work as I promised. Gotta thank Ken for his patience and perseverance and for boldly stepping-up to give it a try - hopefully he'll enjoy another 30 years of trouble-free operation with the new system.
___________
Also we note that ordering the same PN I ordered from RockAuto, the alternator Ken received was a Mitsubishi brand rebuild by AC Delco (mine was a Hitachi brand). Though the Mitsubishi has an unused mystery extra terminal on the back it's apparently an equivalent alternator. Physically it bolted-up no problem, the pulley matches exactly, etc, etc.
___________
Final aside - in the process of our long-distance trouble-shooting and visiting Ken and I realized that a relative of his is a long-time acquaintance of mine. Small world for sure, gotta love the coincidences of new TBN Forum friendships.
OK, so just got of the phone with Ken (kenmac) and we learned something new and important about the IR Alternator Conversion:
Your OEM Yanmar 'charge warning light' bulb must be good for the Internal Regulated Alternator to charge.
Ken's charge light bulb was blown and the alternator would not produce a charge when started (brief slight panic on my end for obvious reasons having posted this thread). But once we figured out his bulb never came on at any key position, and he swapped in a good bulb from his oil light, all worked as it should, ~14.2 volts alternator output with his new battery that had been used for a few quick start-stops (whew! sigh of huge relief on my end, and his too).
Once the engine is started, he can pull the bulb and the IR Alternator stays at full output, but if started without the bulb it won't - so apparently that bulb in series in the circuit plays some function similar to 'exciting' the IR Alternator on start-up, after which all is good. The bulb still works like OEM - it's "ON" with key-on-engine-off, and "OFF" with key-on-engine-on and the alternator generating output (correct warning light function).
I never tested mine with that bulb blown or removed so didn't know the critical role that 'idiot light' plays in the system with the IR Alternator. So, if he/I/anyone with this IR Alternator Conversion ever note our charge light does not come on with key-on-engine-off we now know to check that bulb to ensure our battery will be charged when the engine is running.
In the end, Ken now has perhaps the 'second in the world' Yanmar with the Internal Regulated Alternator Conversion and it seems to work as I promised. Gotta thank Ken for his patience and perseverance and for boldly stepping-up to give it a try - hopefully he'll enjoy another 30 years of trouble-free operation with the new system.
___________
Also we note that ordering the same PN I ordered from RockAuto, the alternator Ken received was a Mitsubishi brand rebuild by AC Delco (mine was a Hitachi brand). Though the Mitsubishi has an unused mystery extra terminal on the back it's apparently an equivalent alternator. Physically it bolted-up no problem, the pulley matches exactly, etc, etc.
___________
Final aside - in the process of our long-distance trouble-shooting and visiting Ken and I realized that a relative of his is a long-time acquaintance of mine. Small world for sure, gotta love the coincidences of new TBN Forum friendships.
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