Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel

   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel #31  
I'm partly in that boat. I think it has more to do with your definition of UTV though. I bought my UTV specifically because the plastic body panels don't ding and dent like the body panels of a real truck. I have had some pretty decent impacts that have knocked the plastic loose, but it always pops back into the retaining clips like new. It doesn't seem I can hit anything hard enough to actually break it with my work related uses.

My definition of UTV is "UTility Vehicle" to do work. Some folk must think of them as "Ultimate Terrain Vehicle" and go at things like a tank or Baja racer...

When looking at it from a work vehicle perspective, all I can think of "100# of extra steel tubing is 100# less firewood hauled" and have a hard time thinking much past that... Beyond that, I always understood part of the safety factor of these sorts of machines is the way they pop apart when they take an impact (sort of like the crumple zone of a car). Mounting all these tubes and extra framework to the machine is going help the machine take the impact damage free, but is going to transfer more of that impact to the occupants...

I realize that there are many makes and models that are for pure play or work, with many models falling in between. I would say my RTV is a work model that I use for play. I've have had a ton of ATV's and as I got older I started thinking about a UTV. Thought its a work machine it was more up my alley as to what I wanted. I do think that if you are running thought heavy woods or working around cattle or livestock in general the rails would be a good investment.
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel #32  
I have a Mule Fxt I use for work like hauling wood and such but my Pioneer is for trail riding and exploring so that is why I would like to build some for it . The rails are real handy in the tight woods where they allow the machine to pivot around trees in tight turns and if you ride rocks they something allow the machine to slide on rock faces where the machine panels would take a beating. Heck one of the first things I did to the Pioneer was pull the sway bar to gain a bit more travel, something that would be a bad idea on a work machine. All depends on what you use the machine for......
I disagree, for me on my work machine it gives more suspension travel, keeping me from getting stuck.

The function of the sway bar is to limit body lean when going fast around corners. My top speed is 25 mph, It leans a little, but not enough to be a concern.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...c-polaris-ranger-post3920355.html#post3920355

PB090007.JPG


I also have nerf bars and highly recommend them. :thumbsup:

PB090001.JPG
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel #33  
I'm partly in that boat. I think it has more to do with your definition of UTV though. I bought my UTV specifically because the plastic body panels don't ding and dent like the body panels of a real truck. I have had some pretty decent impacts that have knocked the plastic loose, but it always pops back into the retaining clips like new. It doesn't seem I can hit anything hard enough to actually break it with my work related uses.

My definition of UTV is "UTility Vehicle" to do work. Some folk must think of them as "Ultimate Terrain Vehicle" and go at things like a tank or Baja racer...

When looking at it from a work vehicle perspective, all I can think of "100# of extra steel tubing is 100# less firewood hauled" and have a hard time thinking much past that... Beyond that, I always understood part of the safety factor of these sorts of machines is the way they pop apart when they take an impact (sort of like the crumple zone of a car). Mounting all these tubes and extra framework to the machine is going help the machine take the impact damage free, but is going to transfer more of that impact to the occupants...

Those tubes offer another tie down point for items in the bed too....I have taken my Gator through the woods getting around to fence lines and literally pushed up against trees in areas, the rails have more than earned their keep for me. Yes they add weight but I don't have an issue with that I'm limited more by size capacity than weight capacity. Plastic panels are great because they don't rust like my RTV 500 did when it's paint peeled off after a year but for bouncing of trees it isn't my material of choice.
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I finished building the rear bumper for my Intimidator this weekend. I'll attach some pic's. I'll start on the rubrails/fender guards in a couple of weeks.



ForumRunner_20150511_085623.jpg



ForumRunner_20150511_085644.jpg



ForumRunner_20150511_085715.jpg
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Looks like I turned the world upside down. Ha. Sorry for the upside down pic's.
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Tried to start the Intimidator Saturday morning but the battery was dead????? I bought a battery charger Sunday & it cranked up after about 3 hours on charge. Don't know why battery went dead, the key wasn't in it & all the switches were off. I'll see what happens next weekend. If it goes dead again I'm going to see if I can figure out what is going on. Any suggestions?
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel #37  
Looks like I turned the world upside down. Ha. Sorry for the upside down pic's.
Thanks to Paint.net the world is rightside up! :D

ForumRunner_20150511_085715.jpg


ForumRunner_20150511_085644.jpg


ForumRunner_20150511_085623.jpg


Looks good! :thumbsup:
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel #38  
Looks factory! Nice work
 
   / Intimidator, 1000 cc Diesel #40  
Tried to start the Intimidator Saturday morning but the battery was dead????? I bought a battery charger Sunday & it cranked up after about 3 hours on charge. Don't know why battery went dead, the key wasn't in it & all the switches were off. I'll see what happens next weekend. If it goes dead again I'm going to see if I can figure out what is going on. Any suggestions?

Being a diesel. Let the gauge needle (mph needle) go all the way to up then fall back down before you crank it. Noticed this works well on our stock units. Will fire off first crank. Find all to often people crank them with out preheating them enough first and battery run down quick.
 

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