Is a box blade what I am looking for?

[Skitch]

IMO, you could do a fine job cutting the sod off with the BH. While you might think that digging with the hoe, piling it, and then moving it with the FEL seems like more work, consider how many times you will have to go over w/ a box blade and drag it to a pile somewhere anyway. Don't get me wrong here. My BB is one of the most valuable tools for my tractors, and I would most definitely encourage you to go ahead and get one. You will be amazed at the number of projects that pop up for using one.

I recently used a BH to cut a driveway, and personally think that it did a much cleaner and faster job than doing it with the BB. Probably just because I am a whiz on BH operation /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif . Seriously though, I am only talking strictly about removing the sod. I was able to pile it and then move the sod with the loader to where I wanted it. I did go back and smooth out a few teeth marks left behind, but that didn't take but a couple of passes with the BB.

Just something more to consider.

 

[NIXON]

Jim .
I noticed that you're in Snow Land .
As a poormans alternative to a box blade you might give some consideration to a rear blade with removable (or in my case bendable when you hang up on a stump /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif ) side plates . Great for removing snow , leveling a drive , etc . The down side are there are no scarifiers to break up compacted soil ,gravel . JMHO John

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue">Are there any brands in particular I should look at? </font>

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say yes, look at KingKutter... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

I did not want a KK box blade. I actually ordered a woods. But I beat around the bush too much thinking and trying to decide what to order, and then Woods could not deliver in time...so I ended up with a KK for less than half the price.

And it works really well behind my B2910. It is 60" and a bit too big for my BX2200. I have used it a lot and since it is not as heavy as some, I just put come concrete blocks on top to add weight. Adding weight this way makes adjusting the rippers a little tough though...but not impossible by any means...

KK is not always the nicest finish or best quality welds, but behind a small tractor they sure do offer some low priced implements that work pretty well.

Edit: Well the image does not seem to work... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif It is a jpeg and about 75K in size. Just a picture of the box blade with concrete blocks on it...

 

[AndyMA]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'd add a caution on using the box blade while reversing the tractor. Some have bent lower three point arms doing this. The arms are called draft links, because they are intended to pull and lift a load. Pushing (traveling backwards with the implement engaged with the ground) can bend the arms on your tractor. This has happened to some on this TBN. Light duty pushing, like leveling loose materials, should not bend anything, in my opinion. )</font>

While there may be a problem pushing with a boxblade on some of the lighter duty CUT's, I have never had thet problem with my Ford 2120 and a heavy duty 8' Land Pride which I've had for about 18 years. I routinely push over 20 yard piles of loam and gravel as well as piles of rocks, etc. As far as push or pulling I never even stop to think about which direction I'm working in.

Andy

 

[SCB]

did that about two weeks ago. 80 dollar mistake. Bent the lower arm and one check chain bolt. Be careful in reverse!!

 

[duanet]

Jim,

I have had a 60" King Kutter for well over two years on my JD 4100 (20 HP) HST. It is on my tractor unless I have a need for another attachment, which means it is my most used attachment while I'm clearing and grading off 4 acres out back. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the KK, although I know there are a number of TBN'ers that don't share my opinion.

One consideration is to make sure the one you get is wider than the outside of your tires. I'm not familiar with the sizes associated with the Kubotas. I did see a 54" model somewhere, maybe a LandPride, that would have worked well on mine, but it was quite a bit more money.

 

[SPIKER]

DIYGUY posted a nice phot rich searies about death of a box blade a while back on here. he killed his backing and hit a rock almost as big as his tractor while going down hill backwards. luckly he stopped before damage to tractor occured but it is very easy to catch and POP a back tire with the scarfets if the box bends.

I have boxblade and backhoe. I'll take the boxblade every time for ripping and leveling / removing top soil... backhoe is very slow to remove the top soil in small scoops, where as I can RIP a lot of grass with the box... I PREFER to rototill top then pile with box & scarfers then move with box & fel combo. I WORKED for 8 hrs/3 prepping the sod for my polebarn untill I bought my boxblade. then did 2 times as much work with the box that I had done the previous 3 days! in about 2 hrs... I was morified I blew so much time screwing around with the wrong equipment before getting the box blade, several friend said I wouldn't use a box and I should get a straight blade... well I'm glad I got the box! I pull down gravel from the creek and move into a pile then FEL into my dump and move 2~3 yards at a time... the box leaves a nice level surface when doing drive and snow work too... first year I tried FEL for moving snow from drive. backing with the box and dragging is 3 times more efficent... I can pile it all way up to the back wheels without slowing down... I have a 6' TSC wallace blade which does not have hardened cutting surface but works none the less... choice go for the heavier unit every time...

Markm /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[johnk]

I use the box scraper all the time. One time I was using the landscape blade though and found out if you extend the top link out to the right angle you can actually skim and roll the sod right off the top layer.

 

[Soundguy]

I've found having rigid stabilizer bars helps as well. I push my maneuer pile up with my NAA, and it has rigid links as opposed to chain stabilizer links. Keep sthe boxblade behind the tractor much better than the chains on my 1920 do.

Soundguy

 

[skycopatc]

I use my 48" Bush Hog Box Blade on my B7500...I don't know how I would keep my driveway in shape without it.