Is my MF 231 running too hot??

[Travis_R]

I wouldn't change anything at this point. If your worried about the tractor overheating then do the plastic bag test. Take your infrared along on a day when your working the tractor and just see what the actual temp is versus the temp shown on the gauge. If you really want markings old air force mechanics would take and make marks on the glass of the gauges with fingernail polish. Make a mark at 160F and what ever other temps you want. Just measure with your infrared at the thermostat or water temperature sender and then mark that temp on the gauge. It'll be way more accurate than any gauge you buy.

Yeah I'm goin to leave it alone, at least until the new thermostat comes in so I can put the engine under a load and do the plastic bag test.

 

[Travis_R]

This 3.125 series of engines has been around from 1958 or earlier and used in the Massey 35, 135, 235 and 50+ other Massey's and other machines with three and four cylinder versions.Probably a six too. Little was changed except some tweaks including a hotter stat to meet Tier II emissions until the end of 2006 production. Other displacements of the same base engine design were produced during the same era in dozens of versions. Among the best and fuel most efficient diesel engines ever built. List of Perkins engine models - Tractor & Construction Plant Wiki - The classic vehicle and machinery wiki Massey Ferguson 231 1989 - 1999 200 One Series Perkins AD3.152 diesel 3-cylinder liquid-cooled 152 ci [2.5 L] Bore/Stroke: 3.60x5.00 inches [91 x 127 mm] Power: 38 hp [28.3 kW] Air cleaner: oil bath Rated RPM: 2000 Starter volts: 12 Coolant capacity: 11.2 qts [10.6 L]

This is accurate info. I have the sales brochure of the 231, along with an operator's manual. I do believe that the old Tstat was a 160F because of the Massey Ferguson part number. I also now believe that the old Tstat was the original one that came in the engine in 1998 because it reads "Made in Poland" on it. I wouldn't have thought it was made there. Isn't Perkins a USA company? I thought they were anyway.

If you look closely you can see "Made in Poland" on the Tstat.

 

[buickanddeere]

Perkins was flipped through several holding companies after Frank retired in 59 and later died in 67.
Varity, Lucas,Rolls Royce, Detroit Diesel,Dorman and Cat have all danced with the fair maiden Miss Perkins.

 

[Travis_R]

Well it looks like I may have to take the new thermostat out! After looking at the numbers on the old Tstat, I googled them and it came up with a 180 degree! Numbers on old Tstat are 2485C022-82 The "82" at the end has the little degree symbol behind the number "2". So I googled 82 degrees Celsius to Fahrenheit and it stated "179.6 degrees". The Massey Ferguson part number is 1446165M91. Now this is all fine and dandy, but why did Napa's number say it was a 160F Tstat? I'm hoping the one from Napa actually is a 180F and that the info in their system is wrong. This must explain why the old thermostat looked nothing like the one from Napa. The one from Napa didn't have the tit on it either. So now I guess I'm in another pickle. I just want it to be RIGHT!!!
And here's more proof

 

[Winmac]

In addition to the jiggle valve there are other means to accomplish the same task, if you look closely at the new Tstat you will see a small notch on the edge of the valve disc.

 

[Travis_R]

In addition to the jiggle valve there are other means to accomplish the same task, if you look closely at the new Tstat you will see a small notch on the edge of the valve disc.

Wow I never would have seen that if you wouldn't have pointed it out.

Now I gotta research the napa number and see exactly what degree Tstat it is.

If it's a 160F, I GUARANTEE you that the one in the tractor is coming out! Especially now that we know it's supposed to be a 180F in there.

 

[buickanddeere]

iirc a 195F was used in the later engines to improve fuel efficiency and reduce stack emissions. Check the parts book for a 2005 tractor with that engine.

 

[Travis_R]

Ok folks I got the new radiator cap in today. Just put it on and tested it out. Now the cooling system is FINALLY building pressure!!! I'm as excited as seeing the little potato sprouts coming up in my garden!

Ok so I revved the engine to right at 1,800 RPMs where the green 540 RPM mark is on the tachometer... No engine load and nothing blocking the radiator.

I cracked the new radiator cap and what do ya know, water came out! And yes, it was warm. Then took the cap completely off and water was right there in the upper part of the neck.

So I put the cap back on and let the engine run for a couple minutes at the previous mentioned RPMs. I then checked the thermostat temp and the highest it read, holding it in 1 spot was 153F.

Then I removed the front grille and checked temp on upper radiator fins. It was 112F. The bottom radiator fins was 82F.

Didn't find any leaks.

I then let the tractor idle at normal idle (750 RPMs) for about 20 minutes and the temp at the Tstat read 149F.

I wanna also mention that the bottom radiator hose is much harder to press now with the engine running with the new radiator cap.

So now that the cooling system is working properly, and that I also trust the temp gauge, there's only 1 question I have.

Should I take the 160F thermostat out and put in a new 180F, (like the original one that came in it), or just leave the 160F in there?

Knowing me and how I am about my stuff, I'll probly end up changing it out. BUT WHAT WOULD YOU DO IF IT WERE YOUR TRACTOR? THANKS!!

1,800 RPMs, new radiator cap, no engine load, no radiator blockage

 

[buickanddeere]

Remove the too cold 160F and install a 195F.
Remove the green-white gauge and install a gauge that reads in actual numbers.
210F is not a temp to worry about if working hard in hot weather with 50/50 mix and a pressure cap.
In fact the first time you get the coolant up to 195F and working the engine hard. There will be some soot blow out of the stack and she will smell "hot" until the residue from cold running running burns out of the engine.

 

[Travis_R]

Remove the too cold 160F and install a 195F. Remove the green-white gauge and install a gauge that reads in actual numbers. 210F is not a temp to worry about if working hard in hot weather with 50/50 mix and a pressure cap. In fact the first time you get the coolant up to 195F and working the engine hard. There will be some soot blow out of the stack and she will smell "hot" until the residue from cold running running burns out of the engine.

Where is a good place to get the gauge and how will I know it will fit?