buickanddeere
Super Member
TSC, EverGreen Restoration John Deere Gauges , or Summit racing.
Yes I couldn't agree more. Already made the decision to go with the 180.I would go with a new 180. Buickanddeeere makes a good point with a 195 and the more efficient engine you may obtain, but these engines earned their legendary status at 180 degrees. So I would stick with 180.
Yes I couldn't agree more. Already made the decision to go with the 180.
Taking it back apart tomorrow and might go to a Perkins dealer that's not too far away to get the Tstat and gasket if they have them in stock.
How can I tell for certain if the Temp gauge is mechanical or electric on the tractor?
Thanks
I couldn't agree more Tom. There is a temp sending unit screwed into or by the thermostat housing. I can't remember. But what I do know is when I unplugged the wire off the sending unit WITH THE IGNITION KEY ON, the needle on the temperature gauge instantly bottomed out in the green area on the gauge. When I plugged the wire back in the sending unit, the needle jumped up instantly. I have always tried to keep things as original as possible. I've always been like this. If i do end up changing the gauge, I will go back with the original design. One reason I don't mind going back original is because I can bring my new infrared thermometer anywhere I bring the tractor and check it anytime I feel the need. And in all honesty, It wouldn't be a bad idea if we all toted an infrared thermometer with us when we on our tractors. I dont think there's many people that could say it wouldn't be a good idea. I never thought I'd own an infrared thermometer. Never thought I'd need one. But so glad I did. Well worth $30!Locate the sending unit and see if it has a small capillary tube connected to it or a wire. If the intent is to have a better gauge, you might want to look into non OEM, in which case you would need to know the fitting size in the engine, depth etc. Length of routing to instrument cluster, space behind instrument cluster, etc. etc. Since yours is working I really think you just need to get the 180 stat back in there and mentally learn where on the dial it should run when loaded up and keep the radiator clean as you had been doing.
Earlier in the thread it was asked how to test a cap, in your case it was apparent but otherwise you use a coolant pressure tester. The cap should relive and reseat within the spec range in this case 7#. Also you can pressurize the system to simulate operating conditions to check for leaks.
How sure are you of this? (only asking)leave the sending unit alone. There is nothing wrong with it.