Is there anyone happy with their 1000 series?

[Fish4um]

I am a proud owner of a 2005 LT 1050 and this mower is awsome! I have 68 hrs on it and it performs great. It is the most level cutting machine i've seen. All mowers have their lemons! Go to a JD site or Kabota,etc. and they all have bad comments. Well, there is my two cents! Good luck with what ever you purchase.

 

[cp1969]

Yes, I guess that the reverse safety makes the lawyers happy.

Cub has to their credit provided a bypass feature (Rev-Tec) that overrides the reverse safety.

I hear you on the PTO. I only engage mine at minimum throttle then advance the throttle. This should minimize the shock to both the PTO clutch and the mower belt I hope.

That is the technique I use for engaging the PTO. Mine's got 13 years on it; still works fine.

 

[WSJ]

I bought a 1046 in August 2005 for a family weekend farm in PA (translation: almost certain mower abuse from being used by too many different people). It's now got 60 hours on it and has been great - no problems whatsoever. It mows about 1.75 acres of slightly sloping and very uneven lawn and has given good service so far.

It's used in combination with a Kubota B6100/Woods RFM and a Kioti CK25/Bush Hog RM so the Cub's use has been limited to yard mowing, albeit not real smooth yard, and itdnot been pressed into duty where a real tractor's needed. I can't complain about its performance, especially for the $$.

The Cub replaced an old 16 hp Snapper LT that finally died (transmission broke) and several cheaper riders. We'll see how it lasts over the years but so far it's the best of the bunch, although to be fair to the Snapper it was purchased used and used 'way too hard before the Kubota arrived. -WSJ

 

[jeepersmitty]

I purchased a 1045 on Memorial Day. Have mowed about 2 acres twice with it. Very smooth level cut. I am going to change the oil today since the temp is getting too hot in Texas for the shipping oil that is in the mower. Greased the tractor after the first mowing and found the zerks took a lot of grease. They must not put much in from the factory. This mower replaces a 25 hp Briggs in a Craftsman DL 3000. Third season on Craftsman and started using a lot of oil and smoking. Hope I have better luck with the Kohler.

 

[JPPWNY]

SLT1554 bought in 2005 has 78 hours on it. Not a single problem or issue, runs like a champ.

 

[CMRVA]

I purchased a 1045 on Memorial Day. Have mowed about 2 acres twice with it. Very smooth level cut. I am going to change the oil today since the temp is getting too hot in Texas for the shipping oil that is in the mower. Greased the tractor after the first mowing and found the zerks took a lot of grease. QUOTE]

How and what are you supposed to grease? What/ where are the zerks? Sorry, went from paying a dude to landscape and mow in the suburbs, moved to the country and now have 11 acres to cut!

 

[xmitterengineer]

I purchased a 1045 on Memorial Day. Have mowed about 2 acres twice with it. Very smooth level cut. I am going to change the oil today since the temp is getting too hot in Texas for the shipping oil that is in the mower. Greased the tractor after the first mowing and found the zerks took a lot of grease. QUOTE]

How and what are you supposed to grease? What/ where are the zerks? Sorry, went from paying a dude to landscape and mow in the suburbs, moved to the country and now have 11 acres to cut!

Zerks = grease fittings.

You should find 1 on each side of the front axle, one on the inside of each front wheel, one on each mower deck front wheel (plastic), and one on each mower blade spindle housing.

The ones for the spindle bearings are underneath the mower deck and were hard for me to find the first time.

I recommend cleaning any debris from the zerks with an oily rag prior to greasing to prevent forcing dirt in along with the grease.

I use 3 or 4 strokes on my grease gun per fitting.

I do this Two or Three times a year or as I think it is needed.

Dirty, dusty conditions get more frequent greasing.

Good luck Sir.

Rickey.

 

[TractorLarry]

It has been suggested to me by Ken at C&G that it is better to grease the blade spindles AFTER you mow, not before.

This is because the spindles will be warm, and allow the grease to flow where it's needed, and reduces the risk of blowing out the seal on the bottom of the spindle (if there is one).

It makes sense to me.

-Larry

 

[raemer74]

Be sure to keep the steering points lubed up, 3 of them on each side.

 

[JSharp]

It has been suggested to me by Ken at C&G that it is better to grease the blade spindles AFTER you mow, not before.

This is because the spindles will be warm, and allow the grease to flow where it's needed, and reduces the risk of blowing out the seal on the bottom of the spindle (if there is one).

It makes sense to me.

-Larry

Interesting thing about those spindle seals. The spindle assemblies don't seem to be vented. So sooner or later with repeated greasing the housing will fill completely with grease and adding more will need to push some out somewhere. It's going to pass the seal to get out.

At that point is the seal "blown" or is it normal to see some old grease pass the seal as new grease is added?

If it's a one way cup type seal that shouldn't cause any problems. If it's not, then I don't see how things can work and not have problems down the road...