Is this manifold screwed?

[trevorwright2017]

I just got this intake /exhaust manifold for my 1959 Allis Chalmers D14 gas. When I opened the box a chunk of cast iron came out and it looks to me the bolt holes weren't cast properly. Does this look like something you'd want on your tractor maybe I'm wrong...

 

[trevorwright2017]

How do I post a picture fml

 

[rangerfredbob]

There's a "Manage attachments" button in the modify page or the advanced posting page, from there it's not too hard to attach pictures

 

[trevorwright2017]

Why are pictures always a problem on forums? I don't think I am alone.. M

 

[Snobdds]

Yea that is no good.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

NO, I wouldn't be happy about buying a new manifold and getting that!

SR

 

[joecdeere]

while the manifold has a bit of poor casting, there is supposed to be a "cast" gap there to prevent warping and to allow a bit of expansion
between the intake and exhaust due to the extreme temperature differences between the two. If it were mine I'd clean out the gap with a couple of hacksaw blades taped together and remember to use the large flat washer that should be on the stud to spread out the clamping pressure. Don't over torque!!!

 

[rangerfredbob]

yeah, that... the intake section of the manifold will probably be coolant temperature or lower where the exhaust section of the manifold will probably get to 1000*F in spots so there needs to be a differential so the tubes don't crack between the ports.

On the pictures, this forum is different than any I've been on but they're all different anymore, back in the day when there were only couple of different software types it wasn't too hard to keep track of but now there's lots and they all get fancier with the new software updates to look fancier and use unnecessary bandwidth... but maybe that's just me talking who's internet is a step faster than dialup...

 

[ruffdog]

while the manifold has a bit of poor casting, there is supposed to be a "cast" gap there to prevent warping and to allow a bit of expansion
between the intake and exhaust due to the extreme temperature differences between the two. If it were mine I'd clean out the gap with a couple of hacksaw blades taped together and remember to use the large flat washer that should be on the stud to spread out the clamping pressure. Don't over torque!!!

Bingo! Without the gap it would be cracking or breaking at another location.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Be sure and use brass nuts with anti seize. I have had to break the casting off when steel nuts seized up from the heat. With proper gaskets it does not take much torque to get a good seal.

Ron

 

[rhunt]

As stated above, brass nuts!! Bob

 

[The Fred]

It's Chinese what more would one expect?

 

[ruffdog]

These manifolds also split at the bolt holes:

Massey Ferguson Intake & Exhaust Manifold TE2 TO2 TO3 TO35 135 35 Tractor: Amazon.co.uk: Garden & Outdoors

Intake & Exhaust Manifold Allis Chalmers D17 WC WD WD45 7

https://www.amazon.com/362536R21-Exhaust-Manifold-Case-IH-Tractor/dp/B07BBW3CVX

https://www.brokentractor.com/p/international-tractor-intake-exhaust-manifold-406046r1-406046r1/

 

[thekkfan]

If it were mine I'd clean out the gap with a couple of hacksaw blades taped together

Doesn't anyone use a dremel and fiberglass wheels anymore? :confused3:

 

[WranglerX]

Be sure and use brass nuts with anti seize. I have had to break the casting off when steel nuts seized up from the heat. With proper gaskets it does not take much torque to get a good seal.

Ron

YES... Brass fasteners and anti-seize is your friend...

Dale

 

[WranglerX]

Doesn't anyone use a dremel and fiberglass wheels anymore? :confused3:

Whats a Dremel?....4.5 inch angle grinder and a 1/16 cutoff disk... One pass, done..

Dale