Is this the Prince SV valve I want?

[StrangeRanger]

Seapea,

Canoe and I just went through the TnT install "together". It was a great help sharing info and comments w/ him. It really is not a difficult task. If you want to save some $$ you should seriously consider doing the install yourself. You could use that $$ you save on more spools or toys, err, I mean tools.

Plus, by doing it yourself you learn more about your tractor, you meet interesting folks (welding guy and hydraulics shop guys) and you can pound your chest

I was a COMPLETE hydraulics hose & fittings newbie. But I learned some things and found the hose shop guys to be very helpful and informative.

It's just a suggestion, we're all here to help.
j

 

[seapea]

I've considered it. I've read through a lot of threads. My main concern is how to tap into the loader hydraulics. I've taken a long look at the loader valve. Other than the 4 ports for the 2 spools, it has 3 other ports as expected. There are two problems. I have no idea which of these 3 ports is the PBY and which is the return, and 2 of the ports have solid steal hoses, so I'm not sure how you tap into them. I'm guessing the return is the rubber hose since it is probably low pressure. It's also very cramped around the valve. It located under the right fender.

 

[canoetrpr]

seapea - you will ultimately need to get some pictures for us to weigh in. Get some pictures of the loader valve and hoses and most importantly the hydraulic block of the tractor where the loader's hoses connect to.

The owner's manual will point out which of the three outlets on the hydraulic block is the pressure to the loader, return to tank and PB. Primarily what you need to do is follow the hose that is hooked up to the PB of the hydraulic block and follow that to the loader to see where it hooks up. That is the PB outlet of the loader.

You need to undo that hose and replace it with a longer hose which you will run from the loader's PB outlet to the rear remote as the IN of the rear remote. Then you take the PB outlet of the rear remote and run a hose from there to the PB on the tractor's hydraulic block (where you unhooked the loader's PB hose). The OUT from the valve is depressurised fluid that needs to be returned to the tank. This can either be done by teeing the tank like at the hydraulic block (this is the only line that can be teed as it is not under pressure), or return it to directly where the hydraulic fluid is filled. Kubota makes a "port plug" to replace the plastic cap for this purpose.

I have no real clue what the new B series hydraulic lines are like so you will need to get a picture. I know that the loader valve on the Grand L is an integrated valve and so what I said might not apply. Didn't think that the new B had an integrated loader valve - does it?

 

[8561]

I have the Eaton Cessna valve linked in the previous post. Mine is a three spool just like that one, and I have and use the power beyond sleeve. It is an excellent working size for a small Kubota tractor. I have never found the handles to be too close together and I run it all winter on my snowblower with the hydraulic chute rotation and hydraulic deflector along with hydraulic top link in large winter gloves. The small footprint on the tractor is a big advantage as well. The MadRef (RIP) had the Prince on his tractor, it was a fine valve, but quite a bit larger than mine. The only potential disadvantage to the E/C is the limited flow rating. Depending on your tractor, that could be an issue. In terms of work port size, I prefer the smaller with 1/4" quick disconnects, it slows down the action of the top and tilt making it much easier to use. I'm at work now, but if anyone wants to see my mount, I can post photos tonight at home.

 

[canoetrpr]

Tim, I did not hear about MadRef.

When did he pass away? I'm sorry to hear this. I've learned a lot from him and he first inspired me to take this project on.

 

[StrangeRanger]

Seapea, look at your manuals, they will have all hose diagrams and locations marked for you. And, like ours, I'll bet it's even labeled right on the FEL valve itself. It's a little hard to read on the valve and I had to clean mine off, but it was right there!
Once you find the pb port on the fel valve it's very easy. Simply take that hose off and bring it to a hose shop. They'll look at it and go, "Oh, you need this and this, how long you want it?" And you're done. It really is that easy.
j

 

[seapea]

Seapea, look at your manuals, they will have all hose diagrams and locations marked for you.

I haven't been able to locate a B2620 Owners Manual, although I've only looked online and haven't bothered my dealer yet. I'll try to post pics, but if I recall correctly it is really hard to get a decent view of the valve.

Once you find the pb port on the fel valve it's very easy. Simply take that hose off and bring it to a hose shop. They'll look at it and go, "Oh, you need this and this, how long you want it?" And you're done. It really is that easy.
j

Problem is that it's a metal hose, not a flexible hose. Do I just remove it and replace with flexible hoses?

 

[seapea]

I have the Eaton Cessna valve linked in the previous post. Mine is a three spool just like that one, and I have and use the power beyond sleeve...I'm at work now, but if anyone wants to see my mount, I can post photos tonight at home.

Yes, please do. Thanks!

 

[seapea]

View from rear of tractor. The ports with brass caps are for the FEL cylinders. You can clearly see two. You can also barely see the other two just below and behind the two that are visible. The visible gray port with the metal hose runs under the driver's seat and disappears into the tractor.


A closer view from the rear, taken from inside of the right rear fender. The gray port to the rear of this picture runs to the front of the tractor, and disappears somewhere near the engine.


View from below. That's the right rear fender on your left.


View from the front taken from above the deck. That's part of the FEL control linkage in the front.


View from the front taken from below the deck. In the lower right you can see a nut. It's for the clamp used to hold on the rubber hose that disappears into the tractor just a few inches awau. This is the only rubber hose. The rest are all metal.

 

[canoetrpr]

If that's your loader valve then it sure as heck is an integrated valve. Pretty nice. I didn't realise how much they were changing the new B series.

I'm guessing that there must be a hydraulic block elsewhere that is meant for you to tap into for rear remotes. Could it be an option perhaps - rear hydraulic blocks sometimes are available on some models?

With the big changes they seem to have done, I would have guessed that there might be a real factory remote option available - with hard lines etc. Does the dealer do Gearmore because it is cheaper or because there isn't a factory valve available?

Unless there was a quick way to locate and tap into a hydraulic block, I personally would not go down the route of mucking with a hard line as on the loader.