Is this worth trying to weld ?

   / Is this worth trying to weld ? #21  
If welding doesn't work, clean up the break on the pulley, leaving a flange inside as large as possible. Bolt a circular steel plate inside the old pulley, with a new hub to fit the shaft.

Bruce

BCP had the exact idea I had as I was reading down the thread. If its not a restoration I would go that route. BCP must have a machining background as well.:)
 
   / Is this worth trying to weld ? #24  
Oops. In my previous post to this thread (#7) I forgot to include peening. So the procedure should read:

Pre heat to 300-400F.
Use a skip weld. Start at one end of the crack and make a short weld (1" or so).
Allow the piece to cool to 100F or so. I use an inexpensive IR thermometer from Harbor Freight to check the temperature during cool down.

Peen the weld during cool down. I use an air chisel with a rounded point for this.


Repeat at the other end of the crack.
Continue alternating and connecting the short welds until the crack is filled.

Good luck
 
   / Is this worth trying to weld ? #25  
Little late to the tread as it seems the Op took the route of buying a new pulley, which is what I would have done. Anyways, I have had pretty good results welding casted pieces using mig and regular wire and gas mix. Preheat and Post heat is key. I use a propane weed burner on large parts and the top of my wood stove on smaller pieces. I peen using my needle scaler. I like the part brushed really clean and line up the pieces on a metal table where I can run the weed burner over it. On something like that pully, I would preheat to around 600*F using a infared thermometer to check temps with. Then I would use my mig to spot weld several areas around the break just to keep it lined up. Each spot weld would be post heated as soon as weld is complete and then peened with the needle scaler before going to the next spot weld. Once everything is spot welded and no crackes. i would start making small welds, no more than about a 1/2in on such a small piece, post heat and peen, continueing around the piece until the entire part has been welded. Even after the weld is complete, I would apply post heat and keep checking the temp making sure the entire part was the same temp and then cover with something to let the piece cool down very slowly. I like doing these type of repairs in the winter time because I can just lay the part on top of the stove and let cool as the stove fire dies out overnite. If you get in a hurry and try to weld everything up in on pass, it most likely is going to crack. Go slow and skip around a bunch and you can get it to work without cracking. Also, I think brazing a pulley like this one would be easier and much faster than trying to weld, and might possibly be even stronger.
 
   / Is this worth trying to weld ? #27  
I used a propane turkey fryer burner for preheat on a much simpler project. Worked fine.
 
   / Is this worth trying to weld ? #28  
At least 20 years ago the farmer I was working for had a truck taken off the road because a DOT inspection discovered cracks in the cast iron spoked centers. We were slow in getting the repairs done as there were other trucks we could use and it was fall and time to get the harvest off. In discussions with the DOT as to when the repairs would be completed the DOT suggested that we just weld up the cracks. Well we hadn't thought of that! So I sharted looking for a suitable welding rod at the local farm supply store. I came across Arc Tech 223's which are actually a construction bucket repair rod and can be used for cast iron. They aren't really a dedicated cast iron rod but I liked the impact resistance and the 28% stretch.

So we preheated the centers and welded them. IR thermometers were not common in those days so no checking temperatures. Just grind out a V, preheat and weld and then an overnight cool down in insulation.

The truck is still in the neighborhood. It doesn't get worked as hard as it used to, but I still get to check my welds every once in a while. After 20+ years the welds have not cracked again. I know that truck has been well overloaded many a time coming off the field with a load of potatoes.
 
   / Is this worth trying to weld ?
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Update:

It's been a while but here is an update, I called the local supplier for a quote on a new pully, it came down to about $500 ! ****.

So after that I drove to the local welding supplier and got me some welding rods for cast. Now the rest of the storey, due too not enough time it was laying around untill 2 weeks ago. I started cleaning the old pully and gave it a go. This was the first time I ever welded some cast and I was a little bit nervous, knowing that if I messed up, I would have to order a new one. First attemp let met down with a new small crack, grinded out again, welded with a little more pitch, then tried to hammer it as good as I could, next run, hammer, next run, hammer, etc. .. after I had finished I quickly ran in the house and put it on the stove so the pully could heat up nicely on top of the stove (Misses not too happy). after 2 hours I took it off and put next too the stove to cool down again. It worked !! Then I also needed another bushing for the bigger gear wheel and a bolt form the feeder chain roller broke down so I had to tap new thread in there but that also worked out fine.

I took it too the test this week and it did a very good job !, So far it did not break. Maybe it will again in the future but we will see when that happens how bad it is.

1.jpg
3.jpg
5.jpg
7.jpg
8.jpg
10.jpg
12.jpg

So thank you guys for all the tips.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

Intermodel Metal Storage Crate (A51573)
Intermodel Metal...
2007 JOHN DEERE 624J WHEEL LOADER (A51406)
2007 JOHN DEERE...
BUYER'S PREMIUM INFO LOT NUMBER 2 (A53084)
BUYER'S PREMIUM...
2010 Ford Edge SE SUV (A51694)
2010 Ford Edge SE...
CATALOG IS A GUIDE ONLY!! (A50775)
CATALOG IS A GUIDE...
2012 Hyundai Genesis Sedan (A51694)
2012 Hyundai...
 
Top