It's BACK DuroMax XP10000EH 10000-Watt Electric Start Dual Fuel Generator $499!

[radios1]

We have several Honda clone generators at the shop that I work on and most of the same parts are interchangeable

that's fine if you have a source that will go through the time and effort to find a match, else, they won't bother, and just say they don't carry parts for Chinese engines, BTDT many times on the phone!..

 

[Dwellonroof]

I know exactly what you mean, when I go to a parts store they don’t want to fool with you if you don’t have a make and model number
It used to be a lot of good counter people would know pretty much what you needed when you walked up to them with the old parts, nowadays they have to look it up on a computer

 

[radios1]

I know exactly what you mean, when I go to a parts store they don’t want to fool with you if you don’t have a make and model number
It used to be a lot of good counter people would know pretty much what you needed when you walked up to them with the old parts, nowadays they have to look it up on a computer

there is a possible workaround. if you know the HP of the Chonda engine, you can try to match it with a Honda part on an engine of the same size. I didn't bother, but in the case of an ignition coil, it's possible to remove the bad coil from it's metal core, and fit the coil of a Honda engine onto the core of the Chonda engine, IF it has the same inner dimensions.. the coil is the most critical part to get, anything else you can have a machinist or electrical motor shop repair/replace..

 

[thepumpguysc]

I have a question about 1st time start-up on THAT genny..
The tag on the oil fill states it was shipped w/o oil.. that's pretty much a no-brainer.
But it shows a 30WT oil bottle on the tag..
I was reading the instructions & it gives an operating temp chart w/ what oils to use..
The 10W30 covers a wider range of temps.. is it MANDATORY to use straight 30W oil.??
I think the straight 30W low range is 50*.. it was 40* when I was going to break it in.. so 10W30??

 

[kcflhrc]

I have a question about 1st time start-up on THAT genny..
The tag on the oil fill states it was shipped w/o oil.. that's pretty much a no-brainer.
But it shows a 30WT oil bottle on the tag..
I was reading the instructions & it gives an operating temp chart w/ what oils to use..
The 10W30 covers a wider range of temps.. is it MANDATORY to use straight 30W oil.??
I think the straight 30W low range is 50*.. it was 40* when I was going to break it in.. so 10W30??

I would say yes to the 10w30, that's what mine uses. The SAE 30 will work fine however starting will be harder and it will burn more oil with the straight weight.

 

[radios1]

I would say yes to the 10w30, that's what mine uses. The SAE 30 will work fine however starting will be harder and it will burn more oil with the straight weight.

as far as burning more oil with the straight weight, I don't see how that's possible, since the straight weight is thicker.. after breaking it in though, 100% synthetic oil should be used to prolong the engine life..

 

[radios1]

before your warranty is up, you really should check that you can actually buy repair parts for this, call up the places they list as parts/repair centers!!.:thumbsup: if they turn out to be bogus, you can return the generator

 

[kcflhrc]

as far as burning more oil with the straight weight, I don't see how that's possible, since the straight weight is thicker.. after breaking it in though, 100% synthetic oil should be used to prolong the engine life..

Thicker isn't better at start up during cold weather, that's why a 10w30 is far superior for start up in cold weather. Rings won't seal as well at start up with a 30w when it's cold out, that's why they burn more oil. As far as synthetic, sure why not, if it makes you feel better.

 

[kcflhrc]

Here's some good info for you guys on oil viscosity

NYS SITEPOWER Generator Tech says:

Lets start with straight motor oils here. We'll take SAE-30 weight oil for a first example. Good strong oil. Works great in the summer and on a hot running engine (which most air cooled engines are). This is why it's the recommended oil for lawnmowers and such. It doesn't break down when hot and provides excellent lubrication. But…

… SAE-30 flows like tar when its cold. Cold like a January morning in Upstate NY. In fact, many times the oil pump can't suck it up, and the engine runs without oil for a while until it warms up the oil, and that isn’t good! Many engines have been damaged from this back in the day.

So engineers came up with the multi-viscosity stuff, like 10W-30. It's still 30 oil, but when it’s cold outside (like winter time, hence the "w"), it flows like a 10 oil. Magic! So on that cold January morning, it flows like pancake syrup, not tar. The oil pump can move it through the engine, and it doesn't starve for lubrication when started up.

Ah, but there is a downside to 10W-30 oil, it's not as "tough" as straight 30. It will break up molecularly more easily than the straight 30. So in really hot and harsh applications, like a lawnmower in the summer, it's not as good. It's generally "good enough", but not quite as good.

You go up and down this viscosity index depending on various things, like weather conditions, application, etc. A lawnmower in Florida runs a whole lot hotter than a car up in Alaska. So you'll need to adjust viscosity accordingly. Looking at start-up conditions, as well as running conditions.

So your generator, can it run on 5W-30 or 10W-30? Most likely. Almost anything can. But, if it's a hot running air cooled engine, and you use it in the summer, a straight 30 oil would be better. If it's going to be used in the winter, you'll want a 5W-30 oil instead – this is especially important in our area in the winter months to ensure easy & reliable starting.

Do I apply this to my own stuff? You bet. My snowblower has 10w-30 in it, so I can start it up in the winter. My lawnmower has straight 30. It doesn't get started in the winter, and runs hard and hot in the summer.

 

[kenmac]

all my air cooled engines get straight 30 wt