It's broken HELP

[Sackett2]

Not sure what goes onto the spot; but here is my opinion.
JB weld would make it look it look OK, but no real strength for that point.
Assuming that the most force is a pull(?) Flat steel plate connecting the remaining 3 holes, thickness(?) of the steel depending on the pulling force. Tap a 4th hole if possible and/or build a strap and bolt it to the plate where the broken bolt is, bending it back and attach it to the big shiny bolt on the frame behind the tank, assuming that neither of these parts move. this would support the pull action that would be missing.

 

[Wayne_H]

I would look for a used part from another tractor. Have you checked for used ones? JB weld is great stuff, but it won't work here.

Wayne

 

[greenmule]

It probably is cast iron,but maybe not?If the piece that broke off is big enough,you might be able to tell by having someone look at it,running a bead on it would tell you alot,theres a spark test that will also show cast iron verses cast steel,[never done it but sparks are different color][different carbon content],in other words if it is steel,than you can fix this up by welding[some how or other].You can weld cast iron too of course,but....

And yeah,jbweld is good for stopping leaks and such,but not for something like this.
Forgot to add,even if it is steel,see your point about getting area hot[seals and such,oil,etc]

 

[valley]

Greetings Norris, I think I'd weld it. Or have it welded. Than drill and retap for a slightly larger bolt. It won't matter if one bolt is SAE. There will be heat there so if there is a seal or rubber you might want to remove it but I would just weld it. You can take your time dressing the front flat surface. I've had good luck with welded parts even generator mounts where there is pressure and vibration. If you have a welder go to a welding supply talk rods with them. They help you chose the rod. You might already know how to weld cast, just do it! You can always buy another part. I can't see in the picture. If there is a broken piece. Grind a V so you can make more than on pass with your weld. You'll be happer with it if you fix it. Richard

 

[AKfish]

Weld it. Pull the 3pt lift arm off and remove the seals before welding. The casting looks hefty enough that most of the heat won't spread real far.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[Cocre]

Years back I would use Certanium brand rods for welding cast iron. The end results mostly depended on the quality of the cast iron. Cast parts often have impurities and air pockets in the metal that lead to less than stellar welds, but often the welds would be excellent. The welds often have little pits and air holes where impurities vaporized through the semi-molten iron as it solidified. This was 20 plus years ago, I suspect metallurgy has improved things since then.

With cast you may want to evenly pre-heat the parts before striking an arc, not so much as to fry an egg, but enough to help prevent rapid heat born expansion from cracking the cast elsewhere. If you can't get the seals out, you may want to leave the hitch arms on to act as a heat sink. Also damp rags wrapped around nearby points can help pull heat from critical parts. Apply them as things start to warm up and keep them wet.

 

[tommu56]

Put a steel plate over 4 holes tap upper left hole clearance drill the other 3 then an other piece of steel back to hole on top back were fill/breather is the weld the 2 plates were they meet..


tom

 

[polo1665]

I went home last night and looked to seee where your broken part was located. Guess I should have done that before I replied. I now have to agree with the consensus. Even if there are threads left there is no way that you will hold that cast piece in place with JB. What surprises me is that there are only four bolts to begin with. I would take Diamondpilot's suggestion and put a couple more in. Six would seem much better.

Mark

 

[kcarl]

I just went through a similar situation with a cracked axle housing. For mine, I had to replace the housing with a used one from West Kentucky Tractor Parts. This was due to stress in the area of the crack and the fact that it had to be removed for repair and was a major pain to do so.

While researching cast iron welding I found that the part would have to be removed first, preheating and slow cooling was very critical, and results were iffy, though for your situation, I think I'd try it if a replacement part is too costly. Just be sure you find a welder that is very familiar with cast iron - not all are, though most say they can do it.

good luck

 

[greenmule]

Well,like I said,it might not be cast iron,[cast steel welds like plain ole steel],experienced welder can tell by looking and by running a little bead on it.And there is a spark test you can do,[would have to dig out my old book,but steel makes one kinda shaped colored spark when grinding on it and cast iron makes another,carbon content is why] You could get a piece of steel and than that piece that broke off and try it and see. But once you fire up on it,you'll be able to tell,[talking about using steel filler,e-60xx,e-7018,etc.]

If it is just cast steel,no big deal,you don't gotta preheat it up[would be nice,but you don't need to],don't gotta worry about slow cooling and what rod to use,and the fact that after you get done,it might not hold anyway. And if you just weld a little and let cool,weld a tad and let cool,you might not have to worry about a seal or something melting,[might not,but...]