Snow JD 1050 moving snow trouble

Conservation · Dec 21, 2008

I could use some help here too with snow removal. I am getting frustrated at this point. I have a JD 1050, 4WD. I have about 1/4 mile of lane gravel, and the lane is poorly designed. We will fix the lane in upcoming summer months since it is the lowest point anywhere, and the snow piles there and is difficult to move anywhere. But for now, we are stuck with what we have.
The JD now has tractor tires on the front, which helped, but still has turf on the rear, and they are wide. The only way to change that is buy new rims and tires. I have chains on the rear, which also helped some. I have a small bucket on the front, which is OK for some things, but not really the lane. I have a blade on the rear. The entire combo just doesn't work well for removing snow. If you angle the blade to get it off the lane, as soon as the blade gets into anything deep, it kicks the rear of the tractor over, and leave the snow in a big pile. Even the front doesn't dig as well as I had hoped. Traction seems to be my biggest issue.
So what suggestions do you have? I haven't found weights for it. I think it could use front and rear to be honest. I have a bunch of lead pigs availble, but don't know how to mount them to the tractor (on the rerar at least). I have thought of liquid filling, but hear there are drawbacks to that also. Do I throw out the chains, and get new rims and tires and chains for the rear? I'm desperate here!

KarlJD3520 · Dec 21, 2008

A rear ballast box and a front blower worked for years for me with a 1070. Chainss front and rear.

Conservation · Dec 21, 2008

I was wondering about front chains. I wasn't sure if they would interfere with the spindle. I like using the blade at times, so the rear box would probably be a problem? I want to get a blower, but not in the budget this year. That really would be the answer though.
More please. Weight and tire ideas. Experience.

kennyd · Dec 21, 2008

I think you need to fill your tires for more wight. Windshield Washer fluid is a cheaper alternative to other stuff and you could do it yourself.

Conservation · Dec 21, 2008

I have 44X18 20's on the rear of my jd 1050. I am considering filling them. That is a pretty wide tire, and it will hold a lot of fluid. Any idea how much fluid I would need and what it would weigh? I have heard (from kennyd) that washer fluid is the way to go. What is the cheapest way to go without regreting it? I have seen the valves somewhere to aid in filling. Got me thinking on this one.

dnafziger · Dec 21, 2008

I had the same problem last winter on my 3820i, this summer I had the rear tires filled. What a hugh difference it made this winter. I run chains on all four tire. It seems to work a lot better, knock on wood haven't been stuck yet this winter

AKfish · Dec 21, 2008

Conservation -- welcome to TBN! Great place; good folk's..

I had the same rear tire as you on my JD970. It was better in snow (with chains of course) than the R1's I bought later on. I didn't have them filled and I didn't ever think it was necessary - traction wise. (Although, in the summer, crawlin' around the woods really sucked! I was stuck (well, I always got out; but man, I tore stuff up) alot!

Put a chunk of ice-blade on my rear blade and 2 sections of train rail on top (see pic). I think the added leverage of the quick hitch helped as well on the rear blade.

I also modified my FEL bucket to increase the capacity for moving snow. Click the FEL into "float mode" and a touch right or left on the rear breaks once in awhile and down the road...

Best of luck.

AKfish

Conservation · Dec 21, 2008

OK. Two guys with front chains and fluid in tires. I could go ag tires and fill them, but then would have to get chains for them too. I'm thinking chains and fluid at this point. Now have to figure out the cost of the fluid and how to do it.

zzvyb6 · Dec 21, 2008

No question that weight (liquid or iron or a garbage can full of ice or road salt) will help. Try lowering your tire pressures a bit to get more forward bite. You need to watch out that the front grip and rear grip are balanced. The front and rear need to work together. If one axle has too much slip relative to the other, it will aggravate your traction levels.

There are traction coatings that can be sprayed onto tires to give them more bite if you look around. They eventually scrape or wear off, but work long enough to benefit your situation. You also should consider using a chain on the top link to let the rear blade float over road bumps. I modified my setup to stick a truck plow onto the front of my 1070. Never have had a traction problem (have rear tires filled 2/3 full) and have 6 suitcase weights on the front weight bar (240 lbs).

Conservation · Dec 22, 2008

I may be looking at WE fluid this next week. Should add a bunch of weight. If I figure right, that will be about a pallet or more of fluid at like 56 gallons each tire!
My 3 point actually has no downward pressure. I thought all the small ones were like that. If it is on the ground, it is floating. Wish I could push down at times. Front chains may be in my future if needed also.