Snow JD 1050 moving snow trouble

[Conservation]

I could use some help here too with snow removal. I am getting frustrated at this point. I have a JD 1050, 4WD. I have about 1/4 mile of lane gravel, and the lane is poorly designed. We will fix the lane in upcoming summer months since it is the lowest point anywhere, and the snow piles there and is difficult to move anywhere. But for now, we are stuck with what we have.
The JD now has tractor tires on the front, which helped, but still has turf on the rear, and they are wide. The only way to change that is buy new rims and tires. I have chains on the rear, which also helped some. I have a small bucket on the front, which is OK for some things, but not really the lane. I have a blade on the rear. The entire combo just doesn't work well for removing snow. If you angle the blade to get it off the lane, as soon as the blade gets into anything deep, it kicks the rear of the tractor over, and leave the snow in a big pile. Even the front doesn't dig as well as I had hoped. Traction seems to be my biggest issue.
So what suggestions do you have? I haven't found weights for it. I think it could use front and rear to be honest. I have a bunch of lead pigs availble, but don't know how to mount them to the tractor (on the rerar at least). I have thought of liquid filling, but hear there are drawbacks to that also. Do I throw out the chains, and get new rims and tires and chains for the rear? I'm desperate here!

 

[KarlJD3520]

A rear ballast box and a front blower worked for years for me with a 1070. Chainss front and rear.

 

[Conservation]

I was wondering about front chains. I wasn't sure if they would interfere with the spindle. I like using the blade at times, so the rear box would probably be a problem? I want to get a blower, but not in the budget this year. That really would be the answer though.
More please. Weight and tire ideas. Experience.

 

[kennyd]

I think you need to fill your tires for more wight. Windshield Washer fluid is a cheaper alternative to other stuff and you could do it yourself.

 

[Conservation]

I have 44X18 20's on the rear of my jd 1050. I am considering filling them. That is a pretty wide tire, and it will hold a lot of fluid. Any idea how much fluid I would need and what it would weigh? I have heard (from kennyd) that washer fluid is the way to go. What is the cheapest way to go without regreting it? I have seen the valves somewhere to aid in filling. Got me thinking on this one.

 

[dnafziger]

I had the same problem last winter on my 3820i, this summer I had the rear tires filled. What a hugh difference it made this winter. I run chains on all four tire. It seems to work a lot better, knock on wood haven't been stuck yet this winter

 

[AKfish]

Conservation -- welcome to TBN! Great place; good folk's..

I had the same rear tire as you on my JD970. It was better in snow (with chains of course) than the R1's I bought later on. I didn't have them filled and I didn't ever think it was necessary - traction wise. (Although, in the summer, crawlin' around the woods really sucked! I was stuck (well, I always got out; but man, I tore stuff up) alot!

Put a chunk of ice-blade on my rear blade and 2 sections of train rail on top (see pic). I think the added leverage of the quick hitch helped as well on the rear blade.

I also modified my FEL bucket to increase the capacity for moving snow. Click the FEL into "float mode" and a touch right or left on the rear breaks once in awhile and down the road...

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[Conservation]

OK. Two guys with front chains and fluid in tires. I could go ag tires and fill them, but then would have to get chains for them too. I'm thinking chains and fluid at this point. Now have to figure out the cost of the fluid and how to do it.

 

[zzvyb6]

No question that weight (liquid or iron or a garbage can full of ice or road salt) will help. Try lowering your tire pressures a bit to get more forward bite. You need to watch out that the front grip and rear grip are balanced. The front and rear need to work together. If one axle has too much slip relative to the other, it will aggravate your traction levels.

There are traction coatings that can be sprayed onto tires to give them more bite if you look around. They eventually scrape or wear off, but work long enough to benefit your situation. You also should consider using a chain on the top link to let the rear blade float over road bumps. I modified my setup to stick a truck plow onto the front of my 1070. Never have had a traction problem (have rear tires filled 2/3 full) and have 6 suitcase weights on the front weight bar (240 lbs).

 

[Conservation]

I may be looking at WE fluid this next week. Should add a bunch of weight. If I figure right, that will be about a pallet or more of fluid at like 56 gallons each tire!
My 3 point actually has no downward pressure. I thought all the small ones were like that. If it is on the ground, it is floating. Wish I could push down at times. Front chains may be in my future if needed also.

 

[dirtworksequip]

Very few tractors have down pressure on the 3ph. Think about it? Put down pressure on the rear implement and raise the rear wheels a little. NO TRACTION. Just the problem you are trying to get away from.

Sincerely, dirt

 

[TomWhite]

I modified my setup to stick a truck plow onto the front of my 1070.

That is a nice setup. I have seen a couple pictures you have posted of it, but would really like to know more about how the frame mounts to the tractor. Have you got any pictures or anything that would show more detail as far as what you had to do to mount that setup?

 

[AKfish]

Moving snow is a matter of "adjustment" for me, generally. Deep snow or heavy wet snow - I won't even use the FEL on the first run down the road. Drop it down just off the top of the snow and lower the rear blade into the snow, but maybe hold it up 4-5 inches off the road surface.

That way, the blade doesn't load up with snow pukin' over the top and stackin' up into a big ball all the way into the 3pt arms on the tractor.

Might have to take 3-4 swipes to clear all the snow down to the road surface. Usually, by the 2nd pass I can use the front bucket without having the front end want to crawl off into the ditch..

There's no doubt -- having filled tires is a tremendous advantage for good traction. But there are some downsides as well. I didn't want the headaches of big ruts and tears in my pastures and lawn areas with filled tires.

Best of luck.

AKfish

 

[Conservation]

As far as downward pressure, it would just be nice for the rototiller when it is reluctant to start digging.
I was all set to put fluid in the tires, and then I started getting talked out of it. The local JD dealer said he had a tractor in for getting thawed since the low temp ww fluid froze. Shouldn't happen, but it did.
I also mow a lot in the summer on some steep hills. I wonder if the extra weight will mean that I can't hold my normal gear up the hills. I wouldn't like that.
I also see that the manual calls for 21.5L-16.1 rear turf tires. Mine are 44X18X20's, which I would say are wider by a good amount. I'm sure that doesn't help in the snow where you want some pressure on the surface for traction. I called JD, and 440# of wheel weights are $1,300! I have a bunch of lead laying around in pig form, but I haven't found a good way to mount it usefully.
I was looking at the lane today, and come summer I will move the lane a bit so that it isn't the low point. I have no where to put the snow right now and it just fills up when it blows, which does indeed blow. Front chains are still an option, but I also need to get the rear to contribute. Keep the suggestions coming.

 

[Karl2]

The local JD dealer said he had a tractor in for getting thawed since the low temp ww fluid froze. Shouldn't happen, but it did.

Water contamination? Gets to 20 below here and ww fluid never froze.

 

[dqdave1]

I read that you have R1 tires on front and Turfs on rear. When you have four wheel drive; make sure thee rolling circumference is correct or you will have driveline problems

 

[Conservation]

I just checked,and it is OK. I think I am going to switch to a much narrower ag tire in the back. The wide turfs just aren't working for snow. If they were narrower, they would be better I'm sure. Thanks for the warning. If I can wing it, I will get some ags for winter and fill those.

 

[dqdave1]

I have loaded turfs and have no problems moving snow. I do have a back hoe on for weight also.

 

[zzvyb6]

You stated you have a loader, so with a chain, rope, or cable and some rigging, you can pull the rear blade down all you want. Run a roller or hawse type fairlead off the front weight bar and raise the loader UP.

 

[Conservation]

I like that truck setup on the front also. I have been thinking about fabbing up something like that. The thing that concerns me is that I may need to use the bucket at times, and switching over would take quite a while. I like the blade being closer to the tractor though. Can you post pictures of that setup?