JD 110 TLB Locking Backhoe.

[roygul]

I've recently taken delivery of a 110 TLB. Is it normal practice to lock the backhoe while working with the fel and moving about ? (My property is about 15 acres very hilly)

I would feel more comfortable with the backhoe tucked in behind rather than sticking strait out the back. The dealer said when not in use It should be locked as the hydraulics can let go. I've check the manual and apart from saying how to lock it, I can't seem to find if I need to lock it for just moving around the property.

Cheers
Byron

 

[MarkV]

Byron, welcome to the forum. Not sure I understand what you mean when you say, 'more comfortable with the backhoe tucked in behind rather than sticking straight out back.' I think of my TLB's locked when tucked in and a mechanical latch engaged that would not allow the unit to move if the hydraulics were to fail.

I routinely drive my Kubota TLB's around without the locking mechanism engaged. I do us the lock system when trailering. I think most would consider that standard practice.

MarkV

 

[two_bit_score]

I always lock the lever to keep and drop the pin when going across a pasture or other rough ground any distance. Once you get used to it it's no trouble.

 

[CurlyDave]

I always lock the lever for any travel, and always at the end of the day, unless I want to leave the hoe resting on the ground for stability. Dropping the pin in is reserved for rough ground.

The only exception is that sometimes I will leave the machine in a particularly awkward position to discourage joyriding or outright theft by an inexperienced operator.

When operating on a sidehill I will swing the hoe to the uphill side, if that is what you mean by " backhoe tucked in behind rather than sticking strait out the back." As the hill gets steeper, I extend the hoe further. When it is at full extension and I feel uncomfortable, I stop.

 

[roygul]

Its more the drop pin. I have it locked in the vertical direction when traveling, not in use. Just wanted to reduce how much is sticking out the back.

Hope that makes it a little clearer.

Cheers
Byron

 

[CurlyDave]

Its more the drop pin. I have it locked in the vertical direction when traveling, not in use. Just wanted to reduce how much is sticking out the back.

Hope that makes it a little clearer.

Cheers
Byron

The best, and generally the most safe position of the hoe for traveling on level ground is straight back. This is where it should be unless you have a specific reason for moving it to some other position.

About the only good reason for moving it to the side is for weight redistribution on a side hill. Last week, I was working perpendicular to a very narrow road and I moved the hoe to one side to be able to keep one traffic lane open. But, it was uncomfortable for me to work that way.

 

[roygul]

Thanks all.

Got a couple of hours seat time today. Tidy up access to a small creek the needed gradients changed.

Loaded the rear tires (Just with water to the valve at 12 oclock). This thing seems way tippy compare to my 2305.

Guessing its just the higher ride position .

Cheers
Byron

 

[JoelD]

What does dropping the pin mean?

I have pins to stop the hoe from lowering and from going side to side

Thanks
Joel

 

[roygul]

On the 110 tlb there is a lever that locks the hoe vertically, and a pin that locks it horizontally. So I always have it locked vertically, but wanted to know other peoples opinion on rotating the hoe in close vs having stick out the back about 4 feet.

Cheers
Byron

 

[Scrambler82]

My SC2450 TLB allows the BH to slowly lower itself while I am working with other things like the FEL. I contacted my Supplier and OEM and was told to use the Locking Pins if I am not using the BH and this means Curled Up not out straight.

 

[CurlyDave]

...Loaded the rear tires (Just with water to the valve at 12 oclock). This thing seems way tippy compare to my 2305.

Guessing its just the higher ride position .

Cheers
Byron

Go to this link Safety and get yourself an R&B tiltmeter.

I have one and it is very valuable. I mounted mine "temporarily" by attaching it to the FOPS post in front of the steering wheel with black cable ties. That was years ago and I haven't found a better place yet.

At 15 degrees of tilt, I get very nervous, but it hasn't tipped over yet.

My dealer strongly recommended NOT loading the rear tires...

 

[roygul]

Tried to get one of those tilt meters a couple of years ago without luck. Being in Australia I have to go through someone who specializes in buying over in the USA and shipping to aus. The company did not directly ship here, and where out of stock at the time.

I have used an app on an old iPod (like the gen 1 iPhones) that I Velcro to my tractors to give me slope. Nice to now about the 15 degrees and not tipping (that is degrees and not gradient right ? ). I've tried to read as much as I can about slopes. I use anantonio Carraro trx 9400 to keep the growth down. But after reading the thread about the guy snapping his in two, coupled with the need for a backhoe, The third tractor was the right fit.

What was the reason your dealer didn't recommend loading the tires for slopes ?

Cheer
Byron

 

[AKfish]

You might consider wheel spacers for the rear wheels and reversing the front wheels (dish out) for a wider wheel stance, too.

A little better stability for hills.

AKfish

 

[MarkV]

Byron, glad to have you on the forum!! Fill in your profile, it will help people know where you are, in a general way, which helps give appropriate advice. There are a good number of members here from down under.

I own a couple of Kubota's commercial TLB's and they also discourage loading the rear tires. Actually in my owners manual they recommend loading the tires when the backhoe is removed, and then, unloading the tires when using the backhoe. :confused2: I at first thought that must be a translation error being such a ridiculous statement. Now I believe it is just another liability warning sticker to cover the manufacture.

You have a machine that was built extra heavy duty for light commercial use. Fill your tires! It makes a huge difference for the better.

MarkV

 

[SamSpade]

CurlyDave and other TLB owners,

I've always been curious how the backhoe attaches on a 110 TLB. I was hoping someone with one would post pictures of theirs.

Sam

 

[roygul]

OMLVU13606_H3

heres a link to the online manual on the deere site. Shows how it goes on an off. Thou I doubt I will be removing mine much.

Filled in my profile a bit more, been reading this site for the last 4 years. Normally all my questions have been answered before. Got to love search. My knowledge is still very green.

No accidents yet (My biggist fear living on steep slopes). Want to cut some trails into the slopes, clean up around the dam thats pretty overgrown. Build a few rock walls (Low ones abut a meter high).

 

[CurlyDave]

If you following the link you give to the online manual, the very last entry in the "assembly" section, right before you get to "specifications", you will find ballasting.

The last sentence in the ballasting section says: "Ballasting this machine is not normally needed, and should not be done with backhoe installed."

The printed manual I got with mine is just a little different, but says that ballasting tires with the backhoe installed will result in damage to tires and drivetrain.

 

[roygul]

I guess I read the section a little differently. They seem to separate ballasting from filling the tires. Almost as if they think you are adding wt to the backhoe rather than a tire. On page 40 of my manual they refer to the need of ballasting if you remove the bh. They then go on to say what sealant to use with calcium tires or foam filling.

Where they say do not overload the tires. I read that as leave an air gap and make sure the pressure isnt above 16 psi for rears.

I've calculated that I have added about 200 kg a side in water. When on a side slope I like to know theres that extra margin of safety there.

If I reduce the life of my transmission by 10 - 20 % Its worth it for to me. My dealer had no problems with me filling the tires.

I can understand if the machine is to be driven on the road for longer distances. I don't think I've had mine out of low range yet.

I appreciate all the info on this.

 

[MarkV]

If you following the link you give to the online manual, the very last entry in the "assembly" section, right before you get to "specifications", you will find ballasting.

The last sentence in the ballasting section says: "Ballasting this machine is not normally needed, and should not be done with backhoe installed."

The printed manual I got with mine is just a little different, but says that ballasting tires with the backhoe installed will result in damage to tires and drivetrain.

Dave have you come to any conclusions as to why they don't recommend loading the tires on the JD110? For a heavy duty machine it can't be transmission or differentials. They encourage it on lesser equipped tractors. They say the same for the Kubota TLB's as well as the Kubota cab tractors (or at least did a few years ago). I can only think of liability as an issue if in a sever roll over the added weight might stress the limits of the FOPS or cab.

Any thoughts?

MarkV

 

[AKfish]

Dave have you come to any conclusions as to why they don't recommend loading the tires on the JD110? For a heavy duty machine it can't be transmission or differentials. They encourage it on lesser equipped tractors. They say the same for the Kubota TLB's as well as the Kubota cab tractors (or at least did a few years ago). I can only think of liability as an issue if in a sever roll over the added weight might stress the limits of the FOPS or cab.

Any thoughts?

MarkV

The JD110 manual indicates that the rollover protection for the ROPS is 9000 lbs. Filled rear tires would definitely put the weight of the tractor with hoe beyond that limit.

AKfish