JD 2210 Tractor Vibration

[Wildbill34]

Hello all,

Sorry for the repost, but my previous post earlier today has disappeared.

I am hoping you can give me some ideas where to look for the vibration noise I am getting.

Here is the senario; JD 2210, yanmar engine 3TNE74, curtis cab, 47 inch snowblower.

I thought maybe it was the PTO vibrating on the Snow Blower, but when I turn off the PTO the vibration continues. Then I thought maybe it might be in the transmission but when I stop or have it in neutral the vibration continues. I have a cab and it might be making this louder than it really is, but I can really discern a difference after passing 2200 RPM. The other thing is that this showed up for the first time about a week ago. I have checked the fan, fan belts and I don't see anything out of the ordinary. I only have 424 hrs on the machine and the oils and maintenance is done routinely. It started out intermittenly, but now seems to be happening far more often. While I am no means a deisel mechanic, I was hoping to get some ideas where to look or how to eliminate possible causes of the vibration. On the other hand, this may be natural for them to vibrate like this, but I don't think that is the case. I really don't want something bad to happen, but I also don't really want to spend a huge amount of money at the dealer having them figure it was something really easy but charging me deerely to do so....

I did note a comment in the manual about the checking the trottle linkage, but I am really unsure what or how to check it.

Any help or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bill

 

[Treemonkey1000]

That was weird about your post vanishing. I had posed the question about a injector being partially clogged and causing it to not fire that cylinder all of the time.

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Is it a bad vibration. Feels like something is going to fly apart. Or is it a small vibration. Mirrors quiver. Do you feel it in your butt when you are in the seat. I would try to isolate the vibration. Keep trying different thing to see if the vibration gets better or worse. If the vibration gets worse as rpm's go up I would be looking at any thing that the engine turns. PTO, pulleys for the fan, the trans.(even if your not moving parts in the trans are).
Bill

 

[Wildbill34]

Is it a bad vibration. Feels like something is going to fly apart. Or is it a small vibration. Mirrors quiver. Do you feel it in your butt when you are in the seat. I would try to isolate the vibration. Keep trying different thing to see if the vibration gets better or worse. If the vibration gets worse as rpm's go up I would be looking at any thing that the engine turns. PTO, pulleys for the fan, the trans.(even if your not moving parts in the trans are).
Bill

When the vibration hits, it is like something is going to fly apart. Vibrates me in the seat. Of course I had 2 guys listen and then no vibrations were happening while they were listening. I have a experienced auto mechanic coming over tomorrow to take a look. I am in the process of downloading the tech manual fir the tractor and see if that gives any direction also.

Treemonkey, once I get the manual I will look up your idea on the injectors. One thing I have never done was add an injector cleaner in the fuel....maybe time to consider doing that on a regular basis

 

[Bird]

Bill, I think your earlier post disappeared due to a mistake on my part. Since your question was brand specific; i.e., John Deere, I thought you might get more help if it were in the John Deere Owning/Operating forum so I was going to move it there and it disappeared. And I'm not sure what I did or how it happened. I was having very slow Internet responses at the time (my ISP; not TBN).

So I apologize, since it had to have been something I did.

 

[kenstrac]

Does the vibration go away when you push the clutch in?

 

[zzvyb6]

The main driveshaft coming off the motor has a rubber coupling (vibration absorber) that may have cracked from age or overload. If broken or pieces have come out of it, the rubber isolation is gone and the engine torque pulses are going straight thru to the transmission. This is a visual inspection. Use a spot light. Its very easy to change and requires only a few wrenches. There are 3 bolts connecting the isolator to the transmission shaft and 3 to the engine portion. I bought a new one from eBay. A 3 cylinder motor with the isolator shot is quite a shaker !

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

Did this vibration just start when it got bitter cold? I would add some power service before I did any thing else. It has been sub zero the last 2 nights(-10 now) and there are more diesel pickups getting towed in than you could imagine. Bio diesel and cold weather don't mix and the stations don't have to post whether you are getting bio or #2 diesel.
Bill

 

[kennyd]

Does the vibration go away when you push the clutch in?

No clutch...All hydrostatic.

 

[Wildbill34]

Bird,

No problem, its back and I am getting some responses and answers.

Today, after monkeying around with everything I found a couple of things.
1. The engine vibration was due to a little water in the fuel bowl right belwo the filter. I couldn't see it, so I took it off just in case and sure enough, an oz or so of water. Put it back together and the engine ran like a champ. I did get some injector cleaner put in for good measure but I am pretty sure the engine vibration issue is resolved.

2. Started looking around further after hearing another vibration (hpersensitive to it now). I finally got around to grabing and shaking the Hydrostatic output drive shaft, and it clunked around. The u-joints are bad. However, it is going to be a major job to get to it to replace the u-joints, the trans and everything has to be dropped. I recall some guys talking about dropping the trans to replace the trans cooler fan, so I will be basically doing the same thing. A buddy of mine want to see if we can get to it from under the floor so we will be taking that out tomorrow.

zzvyb6, after typing everything above, I saw your note and the tech manual does not discuss this rubber coupling you mentioned. I assume it is on the front side of the shaft next to the engine. Do you happen to have a picture? Where is the inspection site for it, I haven't found one yet other than possibly through the floor but I will be taking my cab off to do that. Please let me know, if that is what it is....it will save me a lot of work.

 

[Wildbill34]

Did this vibration just start when it got bitter cold? I would add some power service before I did any thing else. It has been sub zero the last 2 nights(-10 now) and there are more diesel pickups getting towed in than you could imagine. Bio diesel and cold weather don't mix and the stations don't have to post whether you are getting bio or #2 diesel.
Bill

Hooked,

Use #2 diesel with anti-gel and the tractor is kepted in a heated garage.

 

[Wildbill34]

Well, I ordered the parts today and they will be here Wednesday. I am going to work on it Wednesday night. But it was the main drive shaft coming off the engine like zzvyb6 suggested, the Universials are definately loose. I can't see the rubber coupling until I take the floor off, after removing the cab and ROPS first, I suspect it is shot also as the majority of the noise is coming right where it is. Then if we can get the stuff changed, all is good. Otherwise, then we will have to split the tractor like they are doing for the radiator cooling fans on this model.

So if you hearing cussing and tool banging around and the noises of beer bottles opening in the garage, its me whining about having to split the tractor to get to the drive shaft and quiting for the night!

 

[kennyd]

Good luck Bill...Be sure to take some pictures

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

That was weird about your post vanishing. I had posed the question about a injector being partially clogged and causing it to not fire that cylinder all of the time.

this sound possible a fast and cheap way to find if this is the possibility get a inferred thermometer point it at the manifold see if a big temperature change this will tell you the bad cylinder injector they cost $35 bucks

 

[tthopskin@yahoo.ca]

this sound possible a fast and cheap way to find if this is the possibility get a inferred thermometer point it at the manifold see if a big temperature change this will tell you the bad cylinder injector they cost $35 bucks

sorry boys I always read a book from the back to the front i will start at the front from now on lol

 

[Wildbill34]

Well gang,

I took the tractor apart tonight. It only took 1.5 hours, suspect it will take more time putting it back together. Glad to report I was able to get the drive shaft out without having to split the tractor. Found that the universal joints were nothing but powder. The big vibration damper was in good shape along with everything else. I repeatedly asked the Deere dealer several times about the universals and they could not figure out what kind was in there, I even called Deere direct and they didn't know. They list the drive shaft for $580.00 and kept telling me I needed to replace it because the universals were not servicable. I am here to tell you that they even had grease zerks, but no way to get to them unless you tore the tractor down like we did tonight. So I guess when they mean not servicable they mean you can't grease them, because you sure can replace them. I also found an easy way to repair the transmssion fan through the floor rather than splitting the tractor if I ever need to replace it. So I have it all in pieces over in my mechanic buddy's garage and will go get the universials tomorrow and hopefully be able to get the whole thing put back together tomorrow night. A whole lot of work to get to 2 universal joints, not a real good design on Deere's part. I will take some pictures tomorrow when I am back over there and share them.

Many thanks for all the ideas....think we are back on the road to seat time tomorrow, just in time to do some more snowblowing!!!!

 

[Treemonkey1000]

Thanks for the updates. Glad to hear that you are making progress. Next time I need some work done on my Kubota I will give you a call.

 

[Wildbill34]

The latest and greatest on the universial joint saga. First of all, I think everybody I talked to so far looking for the universial joints call them different names. I suspect I have heard them called 5 or 6 different names. So I make sure I have a picture to make sure they are all on the same page and now carry the one I removed from the tractor in my pocket to show them. So anyways, after going to a couple of bearing shops, drive line shops and several phone calls I could find no one with the universials or and one that could find any with the same measurements. Now I know why JD is saying they are unservicable, they put ones in that you can not find anywhere. Then they said it was a Yanmar part and then Yanmar wouldn't give out part numbers or information about them......

Then, at a suggestion from a friend of mine, I call the Kubota dealer,,,,,guess what, they had the universals as a common part. Needless to say I went to the dealer in a blinding snow storm with my universial in hand to compare the universials . Tada, they were a perfect match (we even mic'd them out to make sure). Although they only had one in stock, I ordered the other one and it will be here Monday. But you know the parts guy and owner of the dealership both had to mention I should've bought one of his orange tractors..... I knew it was coming, was just a matter of time.

So now I will have to say I have a Deerota tractor. But that's ok, I have learned several things in this process.

1. Replacing the transmission fan in the future if need is not going to be a big deal like spliting the tractor. Removing the floor is the best way to get to the fan.
2. Knocking out the universial to replace the fan without cutting the fan in half is possible with minimal cost in regards to the universial.
3. No need to split the tractor to work on the shaft or the fan.
4. No need to spend all them hours working on the tractor to do any of the above.

Lastly, I learn a lot about my tractor in this process and of course this all happens right in the middle of a significant snow storm and had to call another friend to come plow me and my outlaws out.

Monday night I should be golden. Sorry for the long post, but wanted to pass on what I have learned and hopefully save someone else a lot of time and energy.

 

[Labrat]

Wildbill,

Can you post the Kubota P/Ns for us so I can save them with my other numbers?
I have been able to grease the ones on mine but it's about as much fun as picking fly crap out of pepper...

 

[Wildbill34]

Here is the part number 37410-13722 Joint Kit, but I would suggest measuring yours to make sure they are the same. My assumption is that they are all the same ...but one never knows. However, a cool name for the part .........